Testarossa timing belts (Major) on a QuickJack ?

I still have my '85 Testarossa and consider doing a major myself or at least the timing belts and check / replace any bad hoses and such. Car had a $10K major in 2012/13 before I bought it but have not seen more than 500 miles since 2013.

In my garage I have a 4 post lift which I prefer for the classic cars and recently a QuickJack that I use on my Corvette and "modern" cars. The 4 post will be fine for dismantling the bits and pieces under car but when we get close to dropping subframe it just not gonna work. My QuickJack is the 5000 model.

Anyone have a number on how high I need to raise the car to get the rear subframe out and away?

Example of QuickJack at max lift, extender rubber pads can be used so that it start lifting almost immediately.

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Does not look like enough(?)

Measure the height of the top of the plenum... call it HP
Measure the height of the frame where it splits just behind the muffler.... HF

At a minimum, you must raise the chassis... HP-HF

You will need to also raise the chassis to get underneath during your service and to roll an engine cradle under the subframe. Use 14” or so to add the the HF number.

So then:

lift must be capable of raising the chassis: HP-HF+14”

that is a min.... if in ANY doubt get a bigger lift.

If your concrete can support the load (min 4” of quality concrete) you really ought to aim for a two post lift.

I use a Western but is a PIA and I don’t particularly trust it. You need some wood ramps to get the Testarossa over the lift.

That said, it works well and is not dependent on a quality concrete pad like a two post.

A two post with LOTS of walk-around room would make a major sooooo. Much easier.

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I’m on quick jacks now and I’m debating whether I can drop it now myself. Looks like if you pull the plenums the highest point is the starter. It’s more work to do it that way. I’d even wondered about raising the car with the quick jacks, supporting with jack stands, raising quick jacks up with 2x12’s and repeating process. Agreed lift is better but HOA, Family, poorly poured Concrete garages, etc can make that difficult. Good luck. I’m interested in it too. I think a hydraulic table that can support the weight would be necessary too. Not sure how else you could drop and control the shear mass. It’s not a bad job, just big


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I think you would be better suited using your 4 post lift ..there is a actual post or two iirc about how to do it with a 4 post lift ..looked pretty easy

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this quick lift will not be high enough
why not use the 4 post lift, put the car on only with the front wheels so far, that the sub frame with engine you remove will be as near to the plattform as possible. then put under the frame in front of the mounting screws for the subframe some wood. also tighten the front to the lift plattform with 2 straps. when you now go up with the lift and all is removed then the subframe will stay on the ground. also you coult put the lift up and down during you not loosened all the bolts from the subframe

before you fix the car on the lift have a look that you can reach all parts that have to removed/loosened

have seen here some time ago a photo like this here in this thread, but cannot find just now. do a little search

 

I did mine with floor jacks. Built a tubing cradle with casters. Removed rear wheels, lowered down to cradle unbolt and raise body off subframe. Had front tires on 2" wooden platforms. Had to remove bumper and lower panels and exhaust.

 

Thanks everyone. I dont want to use the 4 post lift unless I can unload the car after engine is out. I use my 4 post lift once or twice every week on my other vehicles and dont't want to stress the TR engine job.

There was a guy that used a crane to raise the rear end enough to get the engine out, I will look into that solution the biggest challenge there is that the Quickjack may be unstable if it only get weight in the front. I have lots of space and roof height and may look into making some sort of platform for the quickjack.

I have wooden floor on top of concrete so it aint great for a 2 post lift. Garage has a good 4 meter roof height, the Testarossa is under the cover and I was going to do the job where it sit, it can sit for months at that spot.

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you also like to drive it again?

nice working place

 

Thanks, yes I would like to drive the Testarossa this year, my priority #1 this spring is to finish a "bigbore" engine (1720 cc ) for my '56 Porsche but come April and it should be all Ferrari.

Good planning and the flexibility of a "one to four month" window to do the Testarossa should be my formula for success, I can work on it step by step when time allow and document well between the tasks.

 

Really nice workspace - working in a tight garage is a PIA

Look into scissor lifts.... not optimal, but it works. Plenty of height... but you obviously can’t stand under the car. A rolling stool works fine under the car. It may be a good option for you given your floor issues. Likely much better than a quickjack and still relatively inexpensive. It is somewhat portable... but very heavy. I would not want to be under it in a quake! I won’t leave it in the air overnight for fear of quakes.

Pay mind to the lifting heights that are available. The Western has mechanical locks at a variety of preselected heights. Great for doing brake/ suspension work. During your service, you will likely need to be working in hazardous areas while the car is lifted with only hydraulics... bad form! I believe that the two post lifts allow for mechanical locking at any chosen height (?) If correct, this is a HUGE safety advantage. If your quickjack has only one height with a mechanical lock, it may not be suitable.

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I suspect that this is the only mechanical lock. If so, this unit is going to be very hazardous to work around if you need a height other than full up.

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I have a couple sets of casters I made up that mount to the frame flange where the sub frame attaches. That way I can take TR's off the hoist while the power unit work is being done. This set is drilled to fit any of the sub frame cars.

 

The midrise lift like a bendpac is a great way to go for the testarossa but if you don't want to incur the expense ...I still think 4 post the way to go using Brian's idea .. or sometjing like that

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I used adjustable scaffold casters to move mine. fits right into the holes in the frame.

 

Honestly, with a garage like that, why even fuss with anything other than a 2 post lift? 2 post lift is a miracle for any TR owner. I'm a cheapass and I put up a 2 post lift in my garage and berated myself for not doing it sooner. It's 100% worth the effort and the ROI you get is hundred fold. Just because other guys did weird lifts in their tiny garages, doesn't mean you have to. You're garage is amazing.

 

You need a bendpack...

Your belts are 7 years old...

I went 10 years, no issues. Not to restart an old debate...

 

Thanks for all ideas and feedback, problem is I have to rip up the wooden floor to install a 2 post lift and the concrete may still not "be right", my garage is in an old industrial estate.

I drive directly in from the the road but there are 3 stories at 4 m height each below my garage. Outside the windows there is a drop 15 meters to a small river. The windows are to the west, it is a good place for cars, always within 35-65 % humidity. I bought this place cheap 5 years ago, it does not cost me much and it is a fantastic place I am lucky to have it, the whole area is low cost still very safe.

Alas I don't think I can take the chance with a floor mounted 2 post, I would be drilling and mounting in the floor which also is the roof of the owner below. Am sure the concrete will cope but I just cant risk that.

Think I'll start doing some measures in the weekend, perhaps some simple drawing and consider a combo of dollies, ramp and crane or the 4 post lift and some sort of a dolly or caster wheels.

The MaxJax is said to be mobile but how, this wont stand unless bolted down right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dannmar-MaxJax-6-000-lb-2-Post-Portable-Car-Lift-DMJ-6/204163445

Edit:
QuickJack accessories may be a solution.
This would stabilise:
https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/cross-beam-adapter/

This kit will create the height needed:
https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/suv-truck-adapter-kit/

 

Oh ok, didn't know the garage is not on the ground floor! neat!

 

Did borrow a BendPak scissor for a while, this model: https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/mid-rise-scissor-lifts/md-6xp/

It was excellent for Porsche (356/911) but I never really felt safe under it, like a giant scissor ready to cut whatever in its way. Am sure it is top notch but the main problem with the BendPak scissor was the weight, it was a PIA to move around on the wooden floor.

I would be more comfortable with a scissor lift like this one, separate lift ramps so that one could get somewhat in toward the center of the car. I would still try to make an extra safety item when fixed in place. Often I just toss enough wheels under the car to have a worst case scenario safety thing. This one would allow for some fat french wood screws to the floor as well, looks like a neat lift.

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Trond - if your floor is also a ceiling, you no doubt have tensioned rebar in it. You definitely do not want to be drilling through or cutting the rebar.

Presumably you have 220 volt available... if not, your choices decline.

 

Any idea what weight is on the back of the car without that driveline in place? Those casters are a brilliant solution. Love it. I was thinking solid trailer axle (and the added expense and hassle)


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It is very light. 2 guys could lift it.

 

Testing today and I must say that the QuickJack ("by BendPak") seem to be a perfect low rise lift for the Testarossa.
The big rubber pads that come with the jack find perfect fit just behind both original lift points. It felt very stable, if I get 2 cross beams as well it should add another 2-3 inches (or more with the truck adapters) and It will raise to 90 cm on top of rear bumper.

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Is it clearing the whole subframe?

 

Yes subframe is all free. QuickJack give a good feeling, car sit stable and feels like I'm lifting on the "right spots". The rear lift point can be moved all back toward where an angled iron meet the sideframe and it really give confidence.

If I were to work under the car with this lift I would put some square blocks under all 4 wheels or 4 jack stands strategically placed as a safety item but my goal is to do most all such work in the 4 post lift standing up!

EDIT: Jack is not in the way of subframe not sure it the engine will roll out though, have to measure a little more.