Belt Service

Hasn't been my experience. There is a moment when it suddenly goes from low-to-high, but I've not found difficulty in setting the final torque in that position.

 

The Ferrari prescribed method for the 3x8 may seem somewhat imprecise but I have owned vehicles with what appears to be a much LESS precise method of tightening the cam belts! One used a spacer rod about 2" long that was inserted between the belt and pulley. if you could manually rotate the engine with the rod between the belt and pulley, the belt tension was too low. The instructions even said that if the factory spacer wasn't available, a steel bolt (of the correct diameter - can't remember what the diameter was) was OK to use.

I've used the Ferrari method on my 328 and I routinely red-line the engine in the low gears every time I take it out. Belts are still there spinning away! It may be less precise than other methods but it is certainly appears to be appropriate for the application.

 

Reading around ( Mr Google ) the subject, with a GT4 do you have to loosen off the engine mounts and raise the engine assembly a little to get enough clearance to remove the rear bank belt cover ?
Somebody says it jams against the chassis frame , won’t just come off like a std 308/208 ?

 

Maybe someone correct me, if I'm wrong. But as far as I remember, there are belt covers with long spacers and earlier ones without. On some engines the covers are fitted with studs and on others with bolts. I imagine, that on covers without spacers and studs instead of bolts, you hit the frame before you have cleared the studs.
My late carb engine has the cover fitted with bolts (and helicoil inserts in the head for them). Studs would require pulling.
I once replaced the rear belt cover, since some hack job from previous owners caused it to crack.
The replacement was for spacers, so I had to fabricate those myself.
See picture regarding spacers.

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Never heard of the need to raise the engine. Not even from GT4 buddies.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

No.

It does.

 

A lot of studs need to be removed in the process. Don't really remember if those did too, its been a long time. .

 

Kiwiokie, did you remove the spark plugs when you rotated the engine? That along with a long cheater bar makes it very easy.

 

Thanks I will give it another try before installing.


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I just had a look. My spare parts book 308 GTB 1976 says 'studs'. SPB 308 GTB/GTS 1980 says bolts. SPB 308 GT4 1975 says 'studs',308 GT4 1979 'bolts'. It makes a huge difference, how easy or difficult the rear belt cover can be removed. And I assume, that this was the reason, why they modified the design on the later engines. I am quite sure the rear belt cover will hit the frame or spring/damper without removal of the studs.
On the bolt versions there are helicoils in the heads and crankcase. IIRC one threaded hole goes through into an non-pressurized oil reflow channel. I use Loctite for it. Otherwise I have a slight oil leak there.

Best
Martin

 

With the right tools studs can be removed in seconds. Not a big difference. Takes me longer to get the tools out of the tool box.

One goes in right at the base of a head stud. Never had a leakage issue.

 

Do you have a tool recommendation? I once purchased a stud puller set. It damaged the threads. Now I still use use the pre-war method. Two countered nuts. Tedious.

Best and thanks
Martin

 

I use a metric Stahlwille set that has not damaged threads that I have seen. Come up used on ebay often for not much money.


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Snap On makes a collet remover and a different easier tool for reinstallation. Don't know any of the part numbers. Some people use the roller type for both but those damage the threads so I don't use them.

 

Those are the ones that damage threads. I won't use them.

 

Mine broke free with very little effort so maybe I was just lucky.


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That's the problem with all roller type or universal chuck removers. Removal of tight studs will damage the threads. Especially when using the roller type. Problem with the collet types is, that you not only need a collet for each thread diameter, but for each pitch too. I believe, something similar like the collet type removers and reinstallation tools is also available cheaper than from Snap-On. Coming from China, it could be worth a try nevertheless and probably good enough for us home DIY mechanics, who don't use it every day. And covers all sizes, we have on our cars:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PC-Metric-Stud-Remover-and-Installer-Kit/282517845539?epid=8030757450&hash=item41c7603623:g9gAAOSwCkZZOxix

Best from Germany
Martin

 

And if they are not set in too hard those are sort of OK. We see them set in very hard, corroded etc. and sometimes it requires a lot of force to get them out.

 

That is the set I used and they worked well though, as you say, probably wouldn't hold up in a shop environment where they might be used constantly every day. In that case you really need to get the best quality available.

 

Interesting price comparison between ebay.com and ebay Germany. This is the same set, just without the M12x1.5 remover, which we don't need anyway.
(€ 1.00 ~ $ 1,08)

https://www.ebay.de/itm/BGS-9185-Zylinderkopf-Stehbolzen-Werkzeug-9-tlg-Stehbolzenausdreher-M6-M8-M10/132702359286

Regarding tool quality. I have purchased a mandatory special tools set for changing the cambelt on our Fiat 500 1.4 16V and was really surprised about the good quality given the price and given the fact, that it's Made in China.
Same with a brake piston retraction tool set which was even cheaper.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

Even the roller type of really good brands break regularly on tight studs. Getting a collet for the 11 x 1.0 head studs is hard so we use the roller type and they break pretty much 100% of the time.

 

Maybe in the way they work, but not identical. Which is why I said the Boxer belt looks less stressed.
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If you do your belts and then immediately start reading every belt thread on F-chat you will be due for another belt change before you are done reading.

 

I agree, that it might be a significant difference, whether the identical design has to act on a 12 cyl. camshaft as opposed to a 8-cyl shaft.

Best from Germany
Martin

 

Found this new stud extractor:
https://www.facebook.com/112929693453840/posts/154764799270329/

 

The NOT on Facebook link:
https://sanrico.com/products/stud-extractor