CALI MOTOR MOUNTS

I'll post the pic of the transmission mount. That's the only pics I have. It was very easy DIY.....just support the engine and remove the support bracket leaving the two on the front. It will lower enough to access the two bolts. It' only one mount and cost under $200. In fact, it's the same mount used on the Maserati Quatro

 

hello can anyone tell me how many engine mounts on a ferrari california regular first model not the 30 but a 2012 registration, i can see only one on the diagram and it does not look too difficult to do.
further to chats previously i have looked up scuderia car parts and the mount looks reasonable at 153 pounds, where as ferrari want to charge me 1584.51 ex vat!!!!...i do know how to use a spanner and can support the car on axle stands to give me some height underneath and do have two trolley jacks to take the weight of the engine etc.
It looks a relatively simple job to do, or am i being an idiot?...at 153 vs 1584 i think i can buy any extra tools and still be quids in! ?

in fact i think i should be able to buy a mechanic to come and fit it at home!

 

yes...replaced the mounts on my 2011 cali last yr and then i was told i needed to do it again and it was past the 1 yrwarranty point. Thats when i had it and traded out of the car and into a '15 cali t with warranty on it.

 

Resurrecting the thread.
I brought my 2011 17k mile California into the local Ferrari dealership for an oil change and to have a couple of things looked at. One of them being a significant vibration when left at idle without the AC engaged (the AC bumps up the idle rpm from around 740 to 900)
The local Ferrari dealership told me that all California vibrate and that they often hear complains about it. After inspecting mine they told me that one of the mounts looked worn and that replacing it may help reduce the idle vibration.
2 months and a couple of nag emails later I still haven't received an estimate for parts and labor...

So I went ahead and replaced the mounts myself. The hard to get to upper parts of the mounts had some corrosion on them so it took at bit more effort than I would have liked but all in all it was a pretty straightforward job.

The difference was night and day! The car now idles like a normal modern car. AC on or off doesn't make any difference.
Wow! I've replaced engine bushings on other cars in the past and I've never felt such a difference.

To answer Carnut360's question:
There are two engine bushings/mounts. The left and right ones are identical.
There's a lower transmission bushing/mount that the front of the transmission rests on. It's very easy to replace when you have the cross member down so I advice replacing that too while you're at it.

I found a couple of things that I found makes the installation easier:

1. Before you start. Add a bit of penetrating oil on the top of the engine bushings. The top part collects moisture and is more likely than other parts to be corroded.
2. The heat shields around the front mounts has two snap buttons each. Open them after after you drop the cross member frame but before you unscrew the top screw for the mounts. Don't snap them shut until you have successfully installed the new bushings AND the cross member frame.
3. When re-mounting the cross member frame I recommend hooking the rear of it on the lip of the transmission mount holder (it will become obvious), then thread the long screws through the sides of the front engine mounts.
4. Use the two small screws at the front of the cross member frame to line it up and don't tighten any screws until your have ALL of them threaded at least half way in.

 

Outstanding write up GNU, thanks for adding it to this thread.

 

I’m debating on changing my engine mounts myself or going to the dealer. It really doesn’t look that complicated. I have a 2010 California with approx 4,700 miles that I purchased from Porsche of San Antonio a week ago.

Can anyone confirm the part numbers that were used?

 

Here’s the part at Scuderia Ferrari Parts for 2008 thru 2011 Cali part number 269817 and it looks like they are on sale.

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thank you Bill! That’s the same part I had in my cart. Then I started second guessing myself. Thanks again!

 

Alright, I’m stuck at the removal of the under frame. I’m unable to move the support forward off of the lip of the transmission mount holder because of the bolt that sticks down just to the rear of it. Do I need to remove the support section attached to the top of the under frame? The picture points to the spot I’m referring to.

A note to anyone doing this in the future: there is a hose connected to the front driver side of the under frame that needs to be disconnected.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I figured it out. That was easy. There is an access to remove the bolts below the support section.

 

Whew, you scared me there for a minute. Glad you got it, please keep us informed of your progress.

 

Just finished it up! The motor mounts and transmission mount are all changed out. The oil is changed and right it the middle of min and high, and the filters are all changed. I started at 4:30 am and it’s 7:30 pm here now.

The only addition I have to the lessons learned revolve around doing it solo with the car tires on a ramp (so minimal clearance):

1. I put the front bolts half way in the under frame and placed a jack stand to help hold it up. From there I fully detached the support section (from the under frame) and placed the detached part on the part it slides over. I then used a jack to lift the rear part of the under frame into position (this was very slow as I could only move the jack handle a few inches at a time). I then guided the rear hole into the transmission mount and reattached the support section I had detached.

2. The motor mounts have been updated and I needed two nuts to go over the threads that are attached to the new mounts. The previous mounts had a bolt that went down into the mount vs a thread that went up with a nut to tighten it up.

3. The oil is released from a 10 mm Allen wrench. I couldn’t find that anywhere online.

The car is now smooth at idle (and the transmission mount was changed out with the advice from above). I couldn’t have done it without the wealth of knowledge here!

 

Thanks a million!

 

Did you have to jack the engine up slightly to relieve pressure on the motor mounts as well as the transmission mount?

 

I wrote a lengthy response but the page reloaded before I posted.

I only used ramps for the front tires with the rear on the ground. I removed the protective cover then placed a jack stand under the oil pan. To relieve a little bit of pressure I pushed up on the car and moved the jack stand back to make the motor a little higher.

Now that I think about it I needed the jack for the rear of the under mount because it was jacking up the motor mounts so I could get the mount in place.

The transmission mount was really easy. With the under mount off for the motor mount change it was only two bolts to remove the transmission mount.

 

This is a picture of the old transmission mount bs the new one.

This 2010 California had almost no maintenance history. It had one record years ago with Ferrari of San Antonio and two with Mark Motors from 2018 (tires and air bag recall).

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Great, thanks.

 

Here are the old vs new motor mounts. I don’t have pics of the ones so I grabbed photos online to show the difference.

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I was able to find only a couple of pics from a fellow Ferrari chat member. Today I did replace the engine mounts and it was SUPER EASY!!!!!!! cost? parts $400 and $150 US labor.
I really do not understand HOW they can charge more then $3000 for a simple job like this. 45 minutes and the car was just perfect a totally new wonderful experience, better idle, no vibration at all. I had a vibration since I got the car back in April and I was told that I had to change the sparks plugs, remove intakes.......mhm....mhm...I was sure that was the engine mount or mounts....at the end I realize that was only the one mount on the driver side that was bad. The temp that the mounts received from the exhaust is crazy! the little cuff/shields are really a drop in the ocean trying to protect them. The central bolt of the engine mount after 45 minutes was still "hot...untouchable hot" so I believe that is the reason that they go bad. I hope this will help some other fellow to get the courage to do it yourself! super easy and Fun.
here all the pics of the job.
The only pic that is missing is the removal of the flat panel.
1) pic one just removed the flat bottom
2) Identifying the engine mount
3) here it is from the bottom
4)from the side looking at the sock heat protection
ops...I was told only 10 files.......well If you want to see the rest let me know....
The old mounts look ok but if you pull them the bad one exploded....it was in place but the solid rubber was destroyed.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

the last pic is the transmission support ! it was perfect. Also the details of the little bracket that keep up the subframe .

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I found this........a Ferrari Special part........or secret Squirrel Mechanic?

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Top job! Squirrels love Calis. Ask me how I know!
T

 

Wow, your bad one was much worse than mine, which were intact, but almost a quarter inch shorter than the new ones. Before I did the change there was an irritating rattle in the passenger door at idle that I was dreading going after because it required removing the door panel and who knows how many small parts. After the new motor and transmission mounts went in I was very pleasantly surprised to find the rattle gone.

Really nice documentation pics btw.

 

Bill the crazy is that from the bottom it looks ok.....as soon I pulled..it exploded.....and it was a gentle pull!! see the oil on the ground? You are absolutely right! I had a couple of irritating rattles.....and now are all gone!! love it!! it is like a different car.
TOMC...NOw I want to know about your squirrel story........