so i decided that the roof top on my 328 was getting a bit tired looking. in the past, i've used "mother's back to black" on other items. i liked the satin finish and thought it might make my top look good as well. WRONG!! let me explain. after laying a coat down near the rear latching area, i let it dry and took it outside to look under natural light. i was satisfied with the smooth, satin finish so i decided to coat the entire top. apparently "streaking" started to develop so i kept going over those areas until a nice, uniform layer was obtained. the "look" was now glossy, not the satin i was hoping for. but at least it was uniform with no streaks. letting it cure over night, i anxiously hoped for a new roof finish. at first glance, overall it was impressive, although way too glossy for my taste. worst of all, it hadn't fully cured as i could now see my finger prints when i picked the roof up. so...... are there any thoughts as to how the mother's coating should be removed with out disturbing the cloth headliner on the flip side? years ago there were threads here on properly coating roof tops, but i've been unable to retrieve them. any thoughts (or prayers) would be welcome on how to rectify this calamity.
Let it be, wash it a time or two, and like this Covid-19 virus, it will not last a month. I have never had any problem with Back to Black on my roof.
i forgot to mention.... this winter i laid the roof upside down on old towels. when i picked it up to begin the coating process, i noticed a reverse image on the roof of the towels that i laid it on a couple of weeks earlier. the image was "frozen " on the roof and looked quite disturbing. at this point, i thought there may have been something going on with the fiberglas substrait. anyway, do you think a good wash will help matters?
Was the B2B fresh or old? Maybe it has a shelf life? Just used some the other day bought last year and noticed that it was hardening and caking around the top of the container.
My problem with back to black was not the finish. That comes out fine. It just does not last very long. I quit using it long ago.
it's just off the shelf from local advance auto. i suppose it's fresh. i'm trying to call mother's (the mfg.) but kalifornia's leftist regime told them to close or else. so for now, i will just lay it on the bed in the spare bedrm. and see what happens. if it does cure eventually, i'll probably roll on some black, satin plasticoat and run with that.
interesting. i just got the mother's tech.serivce guy on the phone who snuk in to grab some paper work for home study. he said i probably laid on too much product. so it appears more curing time is needed. once completely dry, buffing it with a terrycloth towel should fix it and even dull the finish approaching the satin i want. he did stress that the product is not a paint. exposing it to uv and the like will wear on it. keeping the vinyl cover over it at all times should prolong the finish. thanks all.
I use B2B on my 328 , and it works and lasts about as long and as good as any tire dressing will. Thank you
well it's been a week since i posted this issue on the "back to black" won't dry quandry. the b2b is still tacky. mothers products doesn't answer the phone either. the product won't buff but smears. a cotton teeshirt leaves lint and makes matters worse. it's a mess. i'm afraid to strip it off. hard to tell what might happen. besides, what would be the proper solvent? at this point it looks like quick bursts up the road w/o the roof panel. our county is notorious for "pop-up" showers that don't show on radar.
So... what's your goal exactly? Are you looking for a temp refinish (which I'm perfectly happy with mine) or a permanent painting solution?
my goal was to make the finish uniform, with a satin appearance. originally it was dull and sun faded. at this point i'd be happy if the finish cured to the touch. since the panel is stowed nearly all the time, i guess i could live with it the way it is. ONLY DRY!
Ok, then it sounds like you need the panel repainted by a pro shop. It's just fiberglass, so no issue for anyone used to boats or Corvettes.
what about damage to the fabric headliner on the flipside? from overspray or whatever stripping method is used?
Please check out my thread just updated. No paint no coating. Removal of oxidized gel coat just like on a fiberglass boat. Turns out these are made of fiberglass and black gel coat. Gel coat oxidizes over time creating the gray haze problem. Boaters are familiar with this and use a cutting solution to remove the oxidized layer. Once done it reveals the original black shiny gel coat which you then apply a UV protection to prevent future oxidation.
honestly i didn't mean to steal anyone else's smoke. i posted w/o searching the rest of 308/328 section. after reading crowndog's post i have a better idea of the roof composition and will inform my body shop accordingly. thanks
Hey we are all here to help. You didn’t steal anything from me. I just wanted to share with everyone what may be “the solution “ To the dreaded gray haze targa top. Good luck and I hope it helps you out.
I tried Back to Black once. Looked pretty for a while, but when it rained, it all ran down the windows and body two weeks after applying it.
greetings john . dunno yet. as i tend to be on the conservative side, i'm going to let the top reside in the spare bedrm. until i'm ready to start driving again. hoping it'll fully cure and then i'll buff out or maybe just stow with the cover deployed. if unsuccessful doing that, maybe solicit from the pittsburgh group who to use.