Trunk Lid Alignment Issue

The social distancing affords me abundant of time so I decided to dig into the seat “potentiometer” thing and put an end to the quackmire. That was the plan anyways but before I even began, I noticed something wasn’t right in plain site. The back part of the trunk cover, boot or whatever people call it wasn’t completely flush with the body of the car. The trunk was between 1/8 to a 1/4” higher. The problem was due to the strut shocks pushing up. The trunk lid itself is about 25 pounds. The struts placement is so close to the pivot point, the force exerted at the back end magnifies closer to 50 pounds If not more. I tried different remedies to no avail so I removed the struts and realigned the lid flush with the car surrounding edges. But a smaller problem resulted. Needed to find a way to hold the lid up when working in the engine bay. Fortunately, I found a solution that fits my requirements.

1. Light weight, and durable
2. Ease of removal if need be
3. Multiple lid height adjustment
4. Old school setup
5. Out of the way when not in use
6. Under $100
7. No major drilling or cutting

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How did you get the adjustable height? A hacksaw only works for the lower settings.

 

Curious what color seats are in your 355.

 

PhilB, seats are Charcoal Grey. Same as interior.

QaVion, a hollow aluminum sleeve half the length goes in the lower end. Retracting or extending yields height adjustments. But it looks better with a single continuos rod so I did away the extender. And given the rod attachment point is in the farthest end of the lid pivot points, its weight varies an estimate 2 to 5 pounds. The light weight allows multiple resting placements where the rod sits. There are at least three solid resting positions for low, medium and all the way up. Picture 2 shows it in medium height. And by the way, the rod and fittings weight less than one strut.

Take a look at the lid when you get an chance. Notice the back end just behind the seats where the lid and car body met. There's a gap seam line that runs from left to right but disappear in the back. thats because the lid is higher than the rest of the car. Run your hand along the gap and you can feel the change in elevation. And if you look at it at eye level, the bent in the lid is noticeable. Also, the dove tail at the back. The gaps on the left and right should be evenly spaced and the angler lines on the dove tail should in straight line with the car body left and right. I didn't take a picture prior to the fix. In the last picture I posted, you can see the gap spacing is even on all three sides.

 

Our cars are twins. From my research, grigio exterior with gray interior is a rarity, most seem to have black or red interiors.

 

Phil, the person I bought it from told me the charcoal grey is the last batch before Ferrari switched to making Series Fiorano in June of 99. Mine has a birth date of May 1999, the last mohican.

 

Mine's a 1998 with a July 1997 build date; delivered in-service date of September 1997. My convertible top is black, but my tonneau cover is also gray/grigio color leather.

 

You either need to paint your car yellow or paint the support gray.

 

Mario, I like the yellow accent looking down on the engine bay.

Phil, I found the original Window sticker with the color code. Its dark grey and not charcoal grey.

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The Challenge Solution

 

I tried mounting the holder on the left and right side. Which ever side, the opposite side sags about half an inch. Your doesn't sag?

 

There's negligible sag, even with the wing. The bracing (left and right tie rods - #16) keeps the rear deck lid from flexing...


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The support rod (#20) is hinged and the tip fits into a hole in the rear deck frame...


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When the support rod is retracted, it's secured by clip #24

Your solution is good because it's completely reversible.

 

I was just wondering but looking good. My setup comes off at the attachment point with just a half turn of the screw. A member on here asked for one. I don’t make the holder. Just the method and requirements. Someone else makes it. If anyone wants to replace their ten pound rear struts for a retro look that weights much less let me know.

The dove tail lines up seamlessly with the body and the spacing is uniform all around.


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It's a good solution affording proper access to the engine bay without the use of shocks. The Challenge setup works well at the track with the same amount of just minor obstruction.

Does the lower end of your support rod lock into anything for stability?

 

It doesn't need to be locked in for stability. The lower tip has rubber padding, slip resistance and there are many locations on the car rear the support end can sit locked in place. In addition, the mechanical connecting method at the top prevents sideway movement. Only an inch left or right at the bottom because the support needs to have some flex to curve around the back of the lid in storage but still strong enough to support the lid in any height position. The support rod flexes inward slightly with the lid in the lowest position. Its intentional to further prevent sideway movement. Originally, I had a pod for the support rod to sit in. I realized it wasn't necessary and I don't like too many nonessential parts.

I did experience with aluminum and steel supports. They don't curve well behind the lid which is absolute. And they don't flex the least bit which means the bottom end can't just sit anywhere.