94 512TR 66,000 mile major

For me... the belts should be as loose as possible without squealing or getting thrown off.

Never threw a belt... but almost always need to retighten after a few dozen initial miles.

High belt tension means high loads on the bearings.

 

These are factory specs.

 

I don't have a photo or notes on where the ring terminal ground next to the oil pump sending unit connects. I would imagine it connects (as I have it loosely attached) to the threaded stud in the photos. Can someone check their car and let me know? Thanks.
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Also, another question that I may also post in the "Technical" thread:
Can the exhaust manifolds be attached to the engine before it is put back in the car? The only interference would be the axles and that fit looks extremely tight, but if it can be done it would make attaching the manifolds way easier.
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I believe so.

 

Understood and agreed. Never had a gauge before and went by feel and ear (squeal). Thanks for the Gates info... at 12 bucks I ordered one to try out. Maybe an old dog can learn new tricks.

 

Agreed. The older I get, the more I like new tricks.

 

IT IS IN.
Now approaching 7 months since I began this adventure, today is the day that the mighty flat 12 cylinder power plant was reunited with the chassis. This was accomplished with the help of my trusted neighbor, Bert Lewis and with no injuries or broken parts. Win-win. It feels good. Really good. I will detail the installation procedure tomorrow, but right now I'm going to continue celebrating. All is once again right with the universe (COVID-19 notwithstanding).

 

Congratulations!!

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk

 

Jim- I bet that does feel good.

 

An enjoyable and educational achievement in clear technical writing for the rest of us. Thanks very much, John

 

Sorry for the lack of photos, but sometimes it takes a few days for photos to get from my I-phone to the cloud so I can access them in my computer. Usually it's within minutes. I don't know why there is a delay...

 

Amazing, Great work! Congratulations!

 

It turns out the problem was in the computer, not the cloud or iphone. Rebbot computer and poof, images are there. Who knew.
Prior to installing the engine, preparations were made.
First, all newly painted surfaces were padded to protect the finish from the lifting ropes, then all wires and hoses (on engine and firewall) were taped out of harms way.
I installed the center large coolant hose using some Magic Lube and pushed it as far back on the fitting as possible to give clearance. It the slight bend in the hose angles upward from engine to firewall. Don't tighten clamps. Put both on hose.
I installed the lower large heater hose on the firewall. In photo #3 below, the orientation of this hose is incorrect (I just stuck it there to check the fit of the clamps). The long leg is vertical and the shorter leg turns to the engine. Lube the ends and attach said hose to firewall aluminum tubing. This hose also angles slightly toward the centerline of the car when installed.
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Make sure the battery cable routes through the lower bracket and rubber grommet.
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Also make sure the throttle cable is out of harms way. It needs to pass under the tube connecting the two fuel tanks (following the path of the blue upper heater hose in the photo below. The throttle cable is not in correct position in the photo.

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Next I attached the front right and left exhaust manifolds (headers). I cleaned and reused the metal gaskets. They will fall off the studs, so I temporarily taped them in place and then pulled off the tape once I got 2 nuts started. I recall one gasket fell off and had to be retaped. I stuck it back on and installed the manifold, but it was not until I checked the photo that I realized that one gasket was not positioned correctly. I am such a dumbass. The engine is already in the car, so now I have to remove that whole manifold again and reposition the gasket. Aarghhh! Oh well, any benefit gained by installing the manifold on the engine stand are nullified.
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So, blissfully ignorant of said faux pas, I enlisted the aid of trusted neighbor Bert Lewis. The engine was raised on the hoist and rolled into position over the engine bay. The chassis was still on the hoist. In order to pass the upper firewall brackets, the engine must be tilted nose (front) down. The axls have to be wiggled into place as the engine is lowered (easy). Through carefully raising the chassis on the lift and lowering the engine bit by bit, we managed to get it onto the motor mounts with no damage to ourselves or any ferrari parts. Boy, that's a good feeling.
It's a two man job. Before disconnecting the hoist, I raised the engine slightly to take the weight off the mounts and then stuck two large screwdrivers from below up through the mounts to align the holes, while Bert inserted the large motor mount bolts (17 mm I believe). The motor mount bolts are inserted from below, with the small washer on bottom, then the huge washer and nut on top of everything. Once all bolts were in place, it was time for a celebratory beer.
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I was very pleased at this point, so after a few brewskis, I did a little fishing and caught this 4 lb bass:
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This is the best thread on the TR forum. Congrats and thanks for sharing!

 

Thanks.

 

My next step was to connect the big coolant hoses. The center most hose slid over the firewall fitting with minimal effort. I used constant torque clamps because they allegedly hold better and don't have little notches that can cut into the hose.
The Right side hose (waterpump) was already loosely attached to the firewall aluminum pipe (again, long axis vertical) and it, too slipped over the water pump fitting with minimal effort (thanks to the Magic Lube). All 4 clamps were tightened.
As you can see, the center most hose angles upward toward the firewall.
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I forgot this pic.
Here are the highly specialized tools I used to align the motor mounts.
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Next, feed the ECU wiring harnesses through their respective holes in the firewall. It appeared that the best position of the AC hoses was between the harnesses. New O-rings and a bit of ester oil and then carefully align the large nuts on the AC fittings (they are different sizes so you can't make a mistake) and hand tighten while maintaining alignment to prevent leaks. Finally snug down with a large wrench.
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The throttle cable comes up the middle of the firewall and then enters a rubber grommet between the AC and alternator brackets and then fits through a hole in the big central coolant fitting. Take the two 8 mm jam nuts off the threaded end of the cable and feed it through by feel. When in position, a little nub of the cable housing will stick out of the back of the coolant fitting.
In the first picture below, my throttle cable was too close to the AC and alternator belts, so I had to go under the car an re-route the throttle cable BEHIND the plastic vent tube that connects the rear of the fuel tanks. That produced much better clearance.
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Now take the cable and loop it around the throttle bracket and through the opening. Thread the two jam nuts on until there is no slack in the cable. This is the proper position of the jam nuts. Move (open) the throttle bracket and take the cable out of its groove. This will give you room to torque the two 8 mm jam nuts against each other so they will not move on the shaft. Turn the throttle bracket again and replace the cable in the groove. Done.
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