Request opinion regarding E-Type restoration | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Request opinion regarding E-Type restoration

Discussion in 'British' started by 71Satisfaction, Dec 30, 2014.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
    1,221
    New York and Norway
    Full Name:
    Art
    Thanks all,
    Appreciate the cautions. What isn't attractive to me about a "done" or "already sorted" XKE is the IMHO high potential for poorly or incorrectly done work. There are a lot of XKE's out there, and a lot have passed through many owners over the years and who knows what kind of work was done on them.

    That's where I'm coming from. With a decent network of enthusiast friends, I've got time and don't yet feel a need to tap the open marketplace to acquire an XKE with the frenzied environment that surrounds them right now.

    The 'barn find' is still worth scrutinizing. - I can readily put my hands on it, I know the seller personally, so far it looks solid other that some rust in the one footwell for which sheet metal is available. There is no corrosion in the fuel filler cavity. The rear well for the fuel tank and spare tire is perfectly corrosion-free. Which bodes well for the rockers. It has clean data plate and box extensions, and I haven't yet seen evidence of it being previously molested by amateurs. Surface-rust aplenty, but so far no rust-through anywhere.

    Thanks again,
    - Art
     
  2. rockminster

    rockminster Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 20, 2003
    874
    Lake Tahoe
    One way to find a high quality car is to go to one of the better known and respected restorers and ask about customers who are selling cars that were restored years prior. The best shops have these lasting relationships and can be a great way to source a car that is less likely to have hidden issues.
     
  3. ColdWater

    ColdWater Formula Junior

    Aug 19, 2006
    621
    bicoastal USA
    Funny how perspectives differ.

    Some see a parts car. My experience is that if you are going to do a total restoration, especially of a car with ample parts availability, the objective is to acquire a solid chassis at the lowest possible cost. That $22.1k car appears to need about the same level of investment in parts and labor as the subject of this thread to raise it to 2+ or 1- condition.

    Moreover, the $22.1k car is a Series 1.5, which to me is completely undesirable. Who wants to be reminded of the terrible powers of government bureaucracy ?

    The remarks about smart money and financial justification are based upon an incomplete assessment of the economics. Value must be ascribed to the pleasure of personal involvement in the restoration of an unmolested original car. Anyone who doubts this should look at the auction prices achieved lately for AM DB4, 5 or 6 or MB 300SL project cars, which have sometimes exceeded restored examples.

    If I was simply writing checks for a restoration, I would admittedly hesitate to put large amounts of cash into a 2+2. But for a restoration with substantial owner involvement, I think the vastly lower chassis cost of a 2+2 versus an OTS or FHC makes great sense, provided that the car is unmolested, solid and a 4-speed.
     
  4. SandydeG

    SandydeG Formula Junior

    Feb 16, 2011
    278
    Milford, NJ
    Full Name:
    Sandy de Groot
    Buy the best example you can afford! It is always cheaper in the long run.
     
  5. ColdWater

    ColdWater Formula Junior

    Aug 19, 2006
    621
    bicoastal USA
    By no means is this a universal truth, no many how times it has been repeated.

    If the buyer's goal is to restore a car to a relatively high standard, this old saying only holds true for cars where replacement parts are scarce and original components absolutely must be restored. If replacement parts are widely available at reasonable prices, as with E-types, it makes no sense to pay more for a better collection of components that will be replaced or restored in any event.

    The optimal buy for this purpose is a non-running car that was put away with minimal miles, such that the body and chassis remain sound and original. Rather like what Art has found . . .
     
  6. SandydeG

    SandydeG Formula Junior

    Feb 16, 2011
    278
    Milford, NJ
    Full Name:
    Sandy de Groot
    Speaking from experience as a shop owner that has restored many E-Types. Hidden panel and frame rust has been a bitter surprise for some of our clients including a current job that is likely to be abandoned due to the extent of repairs in a car that appeared to be a good candidate for restoration. It is quite another thing if you are doing your own restoration and not paying a shop, and truly do enjoy all that entails. Best of luck, and hope this car pans out.
     
  7. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
    1,221
    New York and Norway
    Full Name:
    Art
    An update and taking the opportunity to say Thank You to all who have replied with advice and opinions.
    Please, don't take this as 'beating a dead horse'. My intent is more like sharing what a 'barn find' XKE can look like - for better or for worse.
    That's why there is reason to look closely at the 'barn find' XKE 2+2 before moving on. It's an XKE that is in my own back yard, it's unmolested, and I will learn a lot in the process.

    So, I've been back out for another look (what better to do in mid-winter?) and we partially jacked up the front at one of the lower A-arm knuckles.

    The structural corrosion that is visible from the exterior is along the rocker channel panels. Rust-through is apparent on both driver and pass sides. The rust-through is at the seam with the floor pans, as you'd expect. There is also a pattern of rust visible behind the paint at the driver's rocker extension. I'll have to probe that with a pick the next time I'm out there.

    Here are some pics of driver's side (the pass side is about 50% nicer, but that's hardly relevant):

    [I believe once you click through to the photos below, you can scroll through more photos there.]

    The front edge of the driver's rocker channel where the splash guard should be, with floor board seam, firewall seam at pedal box:
    [​IMG]

    Interior floor at driver's footwell, poking with a screwdriver, I found no rust through except the very bottom front edge.
    [​IMG]

    The mid-section of the rocker channel,
    [​IMG]

    Here is the rear of the channel at the IRS control arm mount. Not a confidence booster.
    [​IMG]

    This visit confirmed the bonnet is quite solid, as are the rear quarters, spare tire and tank well. Firewall* and gearbox tunnel are solid (*with the exception of the bottom few inches at the driver's footwell). Torsion bar mounts are solid. Doors and hatch operate well, panels align well and hinges are solid. But interior of the A and B pillar structures are unknown.

    Unless your opinions are unanimous that it's a goner, I think I'd want to remove the interior trim until I can see the rear control arm mounts from the inside. And poke some probe holes to peer inside the rocker channel and maybe up the A and B pillars.

    Cheers,
    - Art
     
  8. rdefabri

    rdefabri Three Time F1 World Champ

    Jun 4, 2008
    33,571
    NJ
    Full Name:
    Rich
    Listen - the guy that worked on my E-Type told me short of the car flaking into dust that almost nothing is a "goner". The question becomes one of cost - how much are you willing to spend?

    He showed me an XK140 or 150 he was working on - the work was exquisite. He showed me what it looked like before, it was as if half the car's body was eaten away by a T-Rex.

    Last thing I noted when at this gentleman's shop. He had a few people that would restore their cars, then sell them - usually at a loss. He couldn't understand it, but that was what they did. Obviously had the money and didn't really care, at least that was my mechanic's interpretation.

    My point is - you really have to love it. Don't get into a car like this as investment - you'll most certainly be underwater. If you want to work this car, do it.

    Lots of sound advice here, but if cars were a logical thing, none of us would own them.

    Good luck!
     
  9. ColdWater

    ColdWater Formula Junior

    Aug 19, 2006
    621
    bicoastal USA
    Notwithstanding my earlier comments, the new photos seem to conclusively exclude this car from anything I'd consider. Undoubtedly it can be repaired, but aside from the more widely held concern about going upside down financially, my view is that it's only worth owning cars with original factory sheetmetal unless the car is of particular rarity.
     
  10. tinworm

    tinworm Rookie

    Jun 30, 2012
    1
    Wonder what became of this car?
     
  11. VGM911

    VGM911 Formula 3

    Apr 8, 2007
    1,379
    New Jersey
    Well, it's not mentioned anywhere in his profile.
     
  12. Fennicus

    Fennicus Formula Junior

    Apr 10, 2015
    592
    Helsinki, Finland
    Full Name:
    Pekka T.
    Hi,

    I hate to differ, but all Series 1 or Series 1 1/2 2+2's have the steeper windshield and they all DO HAVE three wipers, just like all other Series 1 cars. (and Series 1.5) only all of the the Series 3 (V12) cars and also Series 2 2+2's (but not FHC or OTS) have the longer more raked windscreen and TWO wipers and the windscreen washer nozzles on the bonnet (US = hood). That is just missing the middle wiper, the nozzles

    IMO a Series 1 or 1 1/2 2+2 is quite rare and desirable (to those who have kids) as it is. a) manual gearbox (and not the 3sp outbox) b) it has the 4.2L three HD8 SU inlet manifold. Still ok even if it were the later smog version, but obviously not as much fun (and more complicated to tune).

    Just my 2 euro cents. (My very first car was 1E76372BW a US sold Series 1, LHD triple-SU 2+2 converted to manual with an overdrive. I had it for 16+ years and drove over the Alps couple of time with it, with my wife and two kids) Sold it for ca. €50k euros in 2012 and bought another E-type a couple of months later. :)

    That is the best combination (gearbox, body and carbs for a 2+2 E-type) IMHO.

    I always find it funny, when the people who criticize the 2+2 body for it's esthetics seem to forget that when they see a "V12 FHC" which is in fact always a 2+2 and has that same body, just with a different windscreen and sales on the wheel opening and a wider track and

    I can't sit straight in a standard 6-cyl FHC, but I can sit all day in a 2+2 or our Series 3 V12 OTS, even with the hood (US = top) up. (I'm 186cm tall, ca 6ft1") as the floor is one inch lower, the roof is one inch higher and the seats have adjustable rake. :)

    Cheers!

    Ps. And based on the numbers it was most certainly made in 1966, so you could register it also as a ´66. Does the engine number have the normal (high compression) suffix? -9. Mine was 7E51600-9

    The car number is 1E76755
    Body number 4E52259
    Engine number 7E52339
    Gear box EJS 1059


    It was on e-bay in 2015: http://www.xkedata.com/cars/detail/?car=1E76755 looks like the original color was (Opalescent) Silver (Grey) / Black.
     
  13. Fennicus

    Fennicus Formula Junior

    Apr 10, 2015
    592
    Helsinki, Finland
    Full Name:
    Pekka T.
    Hi,

    That is most true pretty much for all Jaguars! The cost of restoration will not be an "investment" financially, but if you get a kick out of, it's cheaper than sailing IMHO. Or many other things.

    Cheers!
     
  14. gtjoey

    gtjoey Formula Junior

    Aug 12, 2014
    692
    It turned into ASHES in the garage....HAAAAAAA.
    Lets look at what happened before our world ended 4 weeks ago
    Up to early March ALL cars including the E TYPE were dropping 20, 30 45 percent COMPLETELTY restored.
    A 1966 coupe not 2+2 restored were dropping into the 80 grand zone restored. Open tops dropped from 215 down to 135 to 150 really restored .
    If anyone has currency in the next 60 days, they will be worth half of that.
    Ive had MANY E types ,it would cost him at least 200,000 to 300,000 before the collapse to make it SAFE!
    This was all occurring before corona, now its just the last nail in the box.
    Any shop open?
    Any one having friends over to help jig the body?
    Interior repair shop?
    My LAST ETYPE Im finishing now , it was pulling teeth finding the last craftsmen including myself doing 80 percent my own work.
    That car was unsafe and far far beyond repair. .
    But if that's his solitude , good luck, but it was too far gone. Cancer on outer sills means ROT on the inner sills and support frames.
    IMHO
    Stay Home Stay safe...….be careful everyone.
    gtjoey1314
     
  15. Fennicus

    Fennicus Formula Junior

    Apr 10, 2015
    592
    Helsinki, Finland
    Full Name:
    Pekka T.
    Hi Joey,

    Sure, this is an old thread. Values are coming down, which IMO is normal, they were too high. Values change al the time, now also the value of money will come down (inflation, kinda unavoidable) BUT OTOH now some people have more time to spend in the garage. :)

    Yes, that 2+2 would need new body panels from the waist down, and most likely serious body work for the box sections both front and rear, not for the faint of heart.
    But if you want a Series 1 2+2 with triple-SU's and manual gearbox, how many can you find available? They made over 20.000 S1 FHC's, but only a few thousand Series 1 2+2s and ca. 50% of them were automatic.

    Take care!
     
  16. gtjoey

    gtjoey Formula Junior

    Aug 12, 2014
    692
    I agree 100 percent, the problem today is a multiple of things.
    Restoration shops are drying up or dead for these kinds of cars.
    The machinists to repair or restore say a radiator person or chrome re plating are all but gone.
    Any E type restorer will tell you, there is no way a full safe restoration would be less than 225,000 to 400,000 .
    Yes that's not a misprint, if you restored the car to new.
    Repro parts are terrible for the most part, so RESTORING existing bits is a part of the restoration, unless you find nos.
    That body shell is gone. A new one would be 30 grand AND WORTH EVERY PENNY.....just time and labor alone.
    The RUSH for a mid 1967 2+2 stock coupe?
    I don't see millennials lining up for it let alone the rest of us.
    Even if it were, you can find that car restored for 30 to 50 grand tops!
    At least we are having a nice conversation...….tough times.
    Have a nice day
    gtjoey1314
     
  17. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    Yeah, Putting that link of time and money into a 2+2 seems a bit nutty. But Joe you remember the father and son who totally did it to the dark blue car, probably back in 2006. They showed it at flower fields afew years after you took over as the president of the JDCLI They told me my 65 OTS was a great source of inspiration and correctness. I just sent an email yesterday to classic showcase about a series one coupe. But I know they will want idiotic and unreal money.
     
  18. gtjoey

    gtjoey Formula Junior

    Aug 12, 2014
    692
    DWHITE, I agree, if its a project of no issue of TIME or MONEY its a great thing whether its a car or building birdhouses.
    But 2006 is almost 15 years ago, 85% of the great restoration shops or fabricators we know have either , retired,closed shop or died.
    Im wrapping up my last etype now and I can say after 30 plus year of etypes , its not fun when repro parts are junk and nos is all but gone.
    Moss took over XK , SNG is really the last left , Farrel is closed.
    For a 2+2 you can buy them mint for 85% less than a restoration.
    Sadly most start out with great expectation but end up on CHASING CLASIC CARS with a widow and crap in bags on a shelf.
    This of course depends if we have ANY currency in the next 30 days around the globe....
    Good thread
    gtjoey1314
     
  19. dsd

    dsd F1 Rookie
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Nov 19, 2006
    4,191
    Northern Virginia
    I bought my 2+2 about 2.5 years ago. There are not a lot of good 2+2's out there. I wanted a 2+2 Auto. They are even harder to find as so many have been converted to some form of manual. Could not find one that was turnkey or close to. I did find a near turnkey 4sp and have been very happy with it. I think there is still good money in the good cars, problem is they are not the ones being sold often :)
     

Share This Page