Welp, it's stripped!

Changing the oil today, the plug in the oil tank was difficult to get out. Once I got it out, my heart sank. Some idiot at the Ferrari dealer torqued the bolt in too much the last time the oil was changed as part of my belt service a few years ago and the threads are now stripped!

Anyone had any luck retapping the threads on the oil tank? Thanks in advance.

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Yes, I retapped mine to M18 x 1.5 with everything in place (and got an M18 drain plug), but you could also install a M16 x 1.5 helicoil:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/oil-tank-drain-plug-thread-size.616741

(You're not the first one to have this trouble -- it's a marginal stock design.)

 

Ur knowledge never stops to amaze me! A walking TR Wikipedia


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Is it worthwhile to consider using a pump to draw the oil out of the tank and then just drain the pan as per normal? To avoid working that notoriously finicky oil tank bolt?

 

I had Cutaway Creations in Fairfax VA tap mine on their Haas machine. Precision, they’d do it for you for a reasonable price too, as they wrote the file. Then the threaded insert is a permanent and perfect fit. Message me if you want contact info. I just did this job, not bad in a garage on jack stands.


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Is that similar to helicoil

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It won’t let me upload a video but the machine found dead center and then threaded it


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How difficult was it to remove the oil tank?




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I believe you can remove the bottom of the oil tank to repair it. Look at #8 above.

 

Simple job for competent machinist.

 

I think they put in the plug when this still has been cooled down and the reservoir still has been warm

I prefer time sert

why not just weld it and make new original thread?

 

As mentioned I just removed the hose and the four 10mm nuts/washers. Tank stays in place. If I recall, I disconnected the parking brake to make more room. There's an O-ring between this outlet and the tank. Others advised me to simply reuse the screen.


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Or just don't fix it and use pipe sealant on the plug to keep it from leaking or backing out (kidding).

 

+1 (0000000)

 

We'll have to disagree this time For securing a head stud into an aluminum engine case (or some other high load application) = no argument that the timesert is superior for strength. What I don't like about using a timesert for a drain plug is that the counterbore needed is so much larger than the ID of the sealing washer. JMO (although if the damage was such that a helicoil can't be made to work, but a timesert could = I'd use the timesert ). Using a helicoil for the repair has a little bit of this same disease which is why I decided to retap it to M18 and use a 18 mm ID sealing washer and M18 plug.

 

I'm with you on this Steve! Me retired machinist.

 

I also agree with you steve. but when you use such sealing washers
then you are also on the safe side

 

Hey Romano quick question on that - the sealing washers - i'm new to using them and I noticed that only an m18 washer would fit flush on my m16 original bolt, not an M16 washer. Does the rubber sit flush against the head of the bolt, or is it supposed to end up on the threads too?

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sorry joe, don´t understand the question right : sit flush?

you are sure you have a 16 mm bolt and not a 18 mm? normaly on a 16 mm bolt a 16 mm washer will fit. may be you got wrong sized washers? or have a kit wrong labeled?

the rubber is thicker than the seal itself. so the rubber seals at the head of the bolt and also on the opposite side at the housing. the metal also seals and limit the press to the rubber.

some japanese draining bolts meanwhile have a coating, so simply metal with a very thin coating all over and without the rubber

 

I don't remember on the TR. Some sealing washers are solid copper. Solid copper can be re annealed . Heat cheery red,quench in water,then it will be soft again.

 

The real problem is that the bolt only has 3 threads on it. If you seat the washer correctly, after a couple of oil changes, the amount of torque on the 3 aluminum threads of the tank are too much and it strips. If you examine the hole, you will find that the band is threaded with about 8 threads. Solution is to discard the original bolt and go to a local auto parts store and get a longer bolt. This will distribute the force over more threads.

 

Just closing the loop on this one, I drilled out and retapped the hole to 18 mm x 1.5 mm, and screwed in a o2 sensor bung plug I found online, and all is good.

Oh also, I have like 5 OEM oil tank plug bolts (16 mm) for sale... Cheap!

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Rookie question: Planning on doing an oil change today, have to say I am nervous about it. Since there is not a torque specification listed to go by, what's your method of tightening the oil plug? I am planning on following this thread ( http://truedriverscar.com/docs/testarossa_oilChange ) tighten it by hand first and an additional 1/4 turn after it's initial contact OR no more than 20 lb*ft (As Mr. Magnusson had mentioned that 25 lb*ft maybe too much), which ever is reached first. And yes, I will also make sure that the engine is fully cooled down as Turbo-Joe had advised earlier in another thread ( https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/stahlbus-oil-drain-valve.621725/ ).

I have done many oil changes before on other vehicles but this will be the first on the Testarossa and it has seriously gotten me spooked. So any addition wisdom and sharing of your preferred method will be greatly appreciated.

 

I tightened both to 20 ft lbs and no leaks. If you do strip the one in the tank and need to tap it to a larger size, I can send you a link to the plugs I went with. They have more threads so they can easily take 20-30 ft lbs

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And actually if you'd like one of my extra 16 mm bolts for free (OEM!) Send me your address, don't pay ricambi prices.

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