Bellhousing trouble TR

Now that I think about it, the bell housing is not connected to the clutch assembly, so a clutch rusted to the flywheel is NOT the problem. Mine came off with gentle prying (I assume the TR and 512 are similar).
Could the splined shaft be rusted into the clutch disc or pilot bearing? That's the only thing that makes sense to me.
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Take off the clutch bolts one by one through the air gap. There’s six of them. Should come out if that’s what’s holding it in.

 

Wow, that's a tough one. I can't see any way to get penetrating oil past the pressure plate and directly to the splines given the limited access through the bell housing openings. Maybe just keep spraying, wait a day, tap on the housing and repeat.
That is a lot of rust in your photo. This makes more sense knowing the car sat for 4 years. These cars were made to run, not sit for years.

 

ACF 50 is another good corrosion penetrant to try as well and is widely used in the aircraft industry.

 

Can you get to all of them through the gaps?

 

Veedub00 means the six nuts that hold the pressure plate in place. Only the clutch discs have splines and the clutch shaft is reduced in size to fit into the pilot bushing. Removing the pressure plate nuts will allow everything to slide out.

 

as I see it I think the splined shaft is rusted to the clutch disc or the pilot bearing.
so try to loosen and remove all the six 8 mm screws that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel ( as james suggested already ) . if then stil have problem the splined shaft is rusted into the center bearing in the crankshaft. or the clutch disks are also rusted together with the pressure plate, the intermediate disc and the flywheel. it looks very rusty. so picture in post 21 with the blue tensioning belt shows right how to remove the housing. give pressure on and also take a plastic hammer and knock on the spline shaft. knocking sometimes under pressure causes wonders.
you also may use at the section where this blue tension belt is outside the housing 2 wedges to give a little pressure on. not to much pressure. otherwise may be the housing will get destroyed. if you would need an other one let me know, still have. then knock with the plastic hammer on the splined shaft.
good luck

 

As turbo-joe said, remove the pressure plate nuts (and I bow to all those who have much more experience than I with these cars, but in my case the nuts are 13 mm). The design changes over the production run are quite amazing.

Once the pressure plate and clutch discs are free, it should come away freely - unless it is seized to the pilot bushing. If needed, I can't say how much room you have to push the clutch assembly back towards the transfer gears, but perhaps there is enough room to get a spray nozzle in there to put in some penetrant. On the other hand, make sure everything is aligned and pull. Pilot bushings are quite easy to replace.

I'm very interested in this whole process as I have only had my TR since last June and am somewhat learning vicariously thropugh your expereince as well.

 

the nuts are 8 mm with a 13 mm head
a nut is never named to the head, only for the outside diameter of the thread
this size discussion we had already in the thread openend by JIMBO (https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/94-512tr-66-000-mile-major.606893/ )

 

No es una problema....and not to create one, but if I need to replace a bolt, then yes, the thread diameter is paramount. On the other hand, for removal of nuts, the head measurement is what I need to select the right wrench or socket.

Saludos.

 

Anyway, I thought we were here to help someone with a bellhouse removal problem. Not to argue over semantics.

 

every european mechanic knows that a 8 mm bolt has a 13 mm head ( or a 6 mm allen head ), except japanese, they have 12 mm
and when you order bolts you order them by diameter and not by head size.

only to make this clear. also there is no 13 mm bolt available, except special made

but right: back to the bellhousing remove: had success alraedy?

 

PS: this is the mapp type torch for heating the housing or studs. An oxy-acetylene torch will dump way too much heat.


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there is no need to warm the housing because it is loose as I read here all

 

make 3 little machinist jack screws and put them in the air vents and just jack around one thread at a time.

 

how does those screws look? picture? never heard about this, may be the translator not work right?

 

thank you for this link james
but I not understand how this would work to remove the bellhousing? where you put this?

 

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This is 1-1/8” long. Add in 3/8” for the head of a bolt. Go smaller if needed to stay within your gap.

Slip in a fender washer at each end to prevent marring and distribute the load.

Use caution. This will exert significant load. Don’t snap off a chunk of the housing.



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and where on the other side james?