Testarossa timing belts (Major) on a QuickJack ? | Page 7 | FerrariChat

Testarossa timing belts (Major) on a QuickJack ?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by teveo, Feb 20, 2020.

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  1. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    I decided to go with rubber hose, maybe silicon in 2025. :)
     
  2. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    I am having problem getting parts and thinking about putting the engine back in, getting 22 mm hose for the crank ventilation next week but no top end parts. The paperwork with the car show that cam timing was done 2012-2013 and have only 500 miles on it after that job. Need to free up my 4 post lift now.

    Have two options, put everything back now and enjoy or put a wooden dolly onto the rear frame mounts, move the car out of the lift, do the cam timing during summer and maybe install a new diff as well. That would likely lead to 2020 being lost for the Testarossa. Not a big deal having used it very little in 7 years.

    Anyway, belt tension is a little hard to understand. I did "practice" setting the belt tension today, took 4 full rotations on each side and torqued down the tensioner at the end of the rotations, the belt would set at a given tension and not move much and I figured it had "set" itself at correct tension.

    The belts frequency are at 105 hz, that is also where I set the Ducati belts (for reference). I use the iPhone with and app and a good mic.

    Well, if I decide to put the engine back in should I trust the tension with this method or be even more thorough? I am going clockwise from front of engine btw.

    I can get a max of 0.05 mm variation on the full turn now, initially it would move from 0 at both belts up to around 30 so it has been slightly tightened today = belt "setting in"?

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  3. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
  4. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    :)Thanks

    I am “building up” a shopping cart with Fasteners / Parts from that company you sent me a link to, they seem to have hoses as well (newco).

    The 38 mm Cooling hose I finally found came from Torino, Had to get a meter and it should last me 25 years :D
     
  5. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,598
    Pacific NW
    Full Name:
    Anthony C.
    Can you share which 5000 model Quickjack are you using for this job? Is it the SLX or the extended EXT version? Thank you in advance.
     
  6. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    I have the SLX... but I ended up using the 4post lift :eek:
    ;)
     
  7. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,598
    Pacific NW
    Full Name:
    Anthony C.
    Thank you, just wanted to make sure that the QJ model I have is suitable for the Testarossa.
     
  8. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    SLX is perfect for lifting the Testarossa, getting a solid lift on the frame!
     
  9. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    It is almost a year since last post and I thought it was time to update the thread. I am not finished though, but engine/tranny subframe was installed during last summer.

    The problem last year was my other cars needing attention, the Testarossa is a beast on and off the lift and especially without the engine. Last week I decided to use the quickjack so that I can proceed and put the car together.

    It is not a lot left.
    • Have to drain fuel system
    • install new fuel hose between tanks and around fuel pumps.
    • repair one of the exhaust pipes to left bank main muffler that had a crack in the weld
    • bleed brakes and clutch
    • top up with fluids
    Based on what others seem to use in a colder climate I filled Mobile1 0-40W on the engine and learnt that it is better to fill 10 liters and crank the engine that trying to fill all 15.5 liters at once.

    I spilled a deciliter on the floor as the oil tank was filling up. I suppose the engine has to reach temperature before I can fill the rest, oil cooler will not fill until thermostat opens. Ignition and fuel pump fuses are off and the engine is cranking happily though.

    I use dowty seals on the drain plugs and hope this will cure slight dripping of oil.
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    I am also going to adjust the front bumper, the gap is way too large and it does not follow the arch, it has to be pulled back by some 5-6 mm and a few mm's up. It seem someone has adjusted the bumper down due to front hood making contact with the bumper but it must be better to adjust the front hood.

    Quickjack is perfect since I dont use it that much the TR has a much better chance of being finished. Since I will be working under the car I added security with the ramps and supports.

    Bumper line on driver side is almost ok, slightly back and up.
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    Bumper has to come back and up.
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    More than adequate space to finish the job.
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    If anyone has info about providers of quality fuel hoses that can be bought online I would be happy to hear. I know about the scuderia rampante hoses but I rather use regular "industrial quality" fuel hose and change it in 5 years again.

    What I am looking for is the ID 35 mm connecting the tank + the ID 15 mm around the pump.
    In Norway we have 95 octane E5 (5% ethanol) but we have a couple local stations that sell 98 Octane and I am pretty sure it is unblended.

    I am also considering a less "complicated" muffler system, any recommendations for aftermarket mufflers for Euro exhaust system? The 4 piece OEM mufflers are rather bulky.
     
  10. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,867
    southwest germany and thailand
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    romano schwabel
    good decision:)

    you may look for silicone hoses. but be carefull - they must be inside for fuel. costs a little more but easy to install. I ordered them in germany but just now not know where? still in thailand. but had a look in my old mails and found this:
    https://www.steinbockgruppe.de/, you may contact there a guy with name: waldemar wagner. tell him a nice hello form me
    you may try there. I got all what I wanted/needed, but some hoses took some time
    hope this helps?

    if it is not so urgent you may wait until middle of june. then I will be back in germany. there I have those hoses in stock because they not sell only 20 cm, always minimum 1 meter.
     
  11. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Thanks Joe, I will check them out.

    I removed the front bumper today, it was very straightforward.

    Drill out the rivets from the underbody aluminum panels, for each side underbody panel undo the 2 bolts in the wheelhouse.
    Open hood, 4 nuts on the two front bumper brackets, 2 small bolts on each side mounts.
    Undo the electric connections and off with the bumper.
    Undo 5-6 small bolts for lower part of bumper ("the spoiler") and lift and pull it off.

    The bumper off was 30-45 minutes at max, including "careful planning".

    With the bumper off it was obvious that my car has had a minor accident. The bumper itself show sign of fiberglass bonding, the frame has a minor dent to it and the forward pointing triangular piece of the front frame (part# 61540400) made of 20 mm square tubing has been cut off. It is a GBP 450 piece, but only GBP 10 or so in materials. I will fabricate that one.

    The underbody panels are very worn, I will fabricate new underbody panels as well. The 3 of them run into GBP 3K from the parts houses but it looks like GBP 50 in aluminum sheet and a few hours of work.

    The massive "US spec" irons brackets will be history and I will modify and fabricate bracket, cut and drill rubber pads, and cut some shims if needed.

    The front frame slightly dented but the triangular piece pointing forward has been cut at a time.
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    The air ducts will need some work
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    The dented frame is ok, nothing serious but the 20 mm piece that was cut off will be fabricated and welded in.
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    Bumper and "spoiler", both in nice shape but has seen repairs.
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    The underbody aluminum panels, GBP 3K for new pieces, no thank you.
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    "US" front and rear bumper irons? They are not coming back.
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    Two of the bumper bolt on each side were cut when they installed the massive iron pieces and made the car "US spec" back in 1998.
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    Bumper off was much less work than I expected.
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  12. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Thanks Joe, I will check them out.

    I removed the front bumper today, it was very straightforward.

    Drill out the rivets from the underbody aluminum panels, for each side underbody panel undo the 2 bolts in the wheelhouse.
    Open hood, 4 nuts on the two front bumper brackets, 2 small bolts on each side mounts.
    Undo the electric connections and off with the bumper.
    Undo 5-6 small bolts for lower part of bumper ("the spoiler") and lift and pull it off.

    The bumper off was 30-45 minutes at max, including "careful planning".

    With the bumper off it was obvious that my car has had a minor accident. The bumper itself show sign of fiberglass bonding, the frame has a minor dent to it and the forward pointing triangular piece of the front frame (part# 61540400) made of 20 mm square tubing has been cut off. It is a GBP 450 piece, but only GBP 10 or so in materials. I will fabricate that one.

    The underbody panels are very worn, I will fabricate new underbody panels as well. The 3 of them run into GBP 3K from the parts houses but it looks like GBP 50 in aluminum sheet and a few hours of work.

    The massive "US spec" irons brackets will be history and I will modify and fabricate bracket, cut and drill rubber pads, and cut some shims if needed.

    The front frame slightly dented but the triangular piece pointing forward has been cut at a time.
    [​IMG]

    The air ducts will need some work
    [​IMG]

    The dented frame is ok, nothing serious but the 20 mm piece that was cut off will be fabricated and welded in.
    [​IMG]

    Bumper and "spoiler", both in nice shape but has seen repairs.
    [​IMG]

    The underbody aluminum panels, GBP 3K for new pieces, no thank you.
    [​IMG]

    "US" front and rear bumper irons? They are not coming back.
    [​IMG]

    Two of the bumper bolt on each side were cut when they installed the massive iron pieces and made the car "US spec" back in 1998.
    [​IMG]

    Bumper off was much less work than I expected.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,867
    southwest germany and thailand
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    why you post 2 times the same?
     
  14. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    My wifi went up and down, did not notice this, also the editor sometimes go bananas in my macbook.

    I might as well add the frame piece I will have to fabricate and weld in, only the lower V shape piece has been cut.

    Image from internet
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  15. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,867
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    romano schwabel
    as I see it the problem is at f-chat, have the same problem just now to post some but it will not get send
     
    teveo likes this.
  16. c4b4the04

    c4b4the04 Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 9, 2017
    383
    Northern Virginia
    Full Name:
    Cassidy
    The sheet aluminum is very easy to work, you may consider just using some heat, a body hammer and a dolly to reshape. Mine was so far gone I didn't think I could save it, sure enough it came right back.

    Take a good look at your lower edge of the bumper. There are iron/metal 'frames' inside the fiberglass. On my driver side, the bumper was patched externally (poorly) but the fiberglass was cracked on the inside and that iron piece completely rusted through and stretched the fiberglass. We had to cut a whole bunch of bad work out and repair, my advice is just look for places where water or moisture could sit inside the bumper. We have close to 30 hours in the reshape on my bumper. It is corrected now, but a lot of work.
     
  17. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Thanks for the advice but the outer 3-5 cm of the aluminum panels are too far gone due to "scratching", material is too thin and fragmented. No rust what I can see, car came from California 2013 and it has more or less been sitting in my garage last 8 years. Before that it lived in Milano 1985-1998.

    I did chisel and grind off the "impact" bumper mounts yesterday. Happy to see that rear and front bumper mounts are identical, now I can fabricate a set in 4 mm flat steel.

    Bumper frame mounts after the impact shocks were unbolted, grinded and chiseled away. They need a little attention and paint. The front hood lip may need a little flattening as well, it has no signs of damage to structure, maybe someone sat on it back in the day.
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    Impact shocks and what used to be 2" square tube in the top of the photo removed from car. In the bottom of the photo the rear bumper mounts (same as front).
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    Supernaut likes this.
  18. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Summer vacation over and started to work on the car again, last week I have been reinstalling the front bumper, now with the original brackets and better gaps.

    I welded in a simple fabricated frame piece first, then spent too much time adjusting the bumper. The bumper to front fender line is now good, the distance between the fender and the bumper as well.

    It was well spent time, I think it is looking much better now. Next and almost final step is to refill the transaxle, bleed the brakes, refill cooling system and double check my work. With a little inspiration and rainy days I was hoping to start and drive the car before the winter.

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    Fender to bumper lines are finally good.
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    Andre Siloto, vincenzo and turbo-joe like this.
  19. qwazipsycho

    qwazipsycho Formula 3

    Oct 30, 2004
    1,176
    Utah
    Full Name:
    Scott
    There is no way you're getting it out with the car that high. Trust me. You could drop it but you won't get it out from under the car.
     
    vincenzo and turbo-joe like this.
  20. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
    Norway
    Full Name:
    Trond Vidar
    Not sure if you are referring to my title but yes engine has been out but using the 4 post lift. Quickjack alone will not work well. True, it will not be raised enough only using the QuickJack alone.

    If using the QuickJack I suppose you could be inventive, eg drive onto ramps, use some sort of "inserts" between the lifting points and the Quickjack before raising the car with QuickJack. I did it with the Mini Cooper, Testarossa is heavy so you would have to secure it in place!
     
  21. ants2au

    ants2au Formula Junior

    Nov 19, 2003
    774
    Sydney Australia
    Full Name:
    Anthony
  22. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    sure you can start
    best would be sunday morning 6 am and you will get a lot of very happy people around you :) :) :)
     
  23. teveo

    teveo Formula Junior

    Oct 1, 2005
    403
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    Trond Vidar
    Sure, I will try to shoot a video, waiting for a case of Royal Purple Maxgear to fill the transmission.
    Then add coolant, bleed the brakes and ready to fire up.
     
  24. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    On a fresh start post major, personally, I would prefer mufflers on. If any problems arise, your audio visual senses will pick up the earliest warnings. Squealing bearing etc…. With open pipes you’ll never hear it.
     
    flash32 likes this.
  25. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,867
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    when you do a right job before then there is no strange noise
    and as long as the engine is not warm and fuel, oil or coolant will leak nothing can happen. for safety put a fire extinguisher beside when you wake up on sunday the people around you ;)
     

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