Lost all gear oil today, 1991 Testarossa

Not for the halfshaft...ignore my last post.

Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice!

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I ordered ATP screws. they match and have 12.9, also with a little shaft like the original and not with a complete thread. I think ( not sure ) they are the same as those for toyota flywheel. but have to oder 2 sets. 1 set are only 8 screws.
they have under the hex also a small ring, so you not can use the locking tabs
sorry have not the parts number here

can not use anymore. you may drill a whole in all heads and use safety wire


M 10 x 1,25 with a hex head is not DIN and only as allen head available. except some car manufacturers have others.

here a drawing when I needed
sorry, writing in german because I send to several distributors

 

Can the experts make a list of components that we need to get in order to change the differential as a preventive measure not a repair??
Differential
Shims?
Bolts?
Like a Differential exchange kit so we can have it in hand when our engine out services are due
Thanks


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Black oxide is fine

 

This thread reminds me of why I am apart of forums...love the help and support way to go OP.

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U already a veteran on here! Awesome stuff!


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Werll Im making another batch if anyone needs one. They'll be ready in 5 weeks.

 

Well like I mentioned to you in conversation there is an oil pump in the gearbox that runs as long as the engine is running. If it was at my shop the only way is to take it completely apart otherwise take it somewhere else. You could even find the front ring nuts are getting loose on both the main and output shaft - that happens, Ive seen it. The nuts get replaced and loctite blue is used so I know they wont come loose again and my pinion depth wont change and my shifter wont lunge back and forth. So the question is did the pump move some debris around? How do you know if you don't check? Setting up the diff wouldn't be impossible in place but it sure wouldn't be fun or easy. I don't know when the major service was done but if the engine is out you start fresh at the beginning of your ownership and there's no doubt in my mind you'll find other things to do once you get poking around.

 

And the oil pump feeds oil through the shafts to lube the needle bearings from inside and additionally has little oil jets that shoot oil onto the gears from the side. Personally I think the jets are redundant and plug easily despite a pickup screen. Either way, the right way is out of the car, side cover off where the front engine mount attaches and the front cover removed for inspection and go from there.

 

I drilled and safety wired mine.

 

brian is right, much easier when the engine is out
but also poosible to do all when the engine is in, but a little more complicated.

good question but as jamie has written nearly no debris on the front drain plug - so I would go on now with engine in. sure there would be a little risk not to check all, but when you like to check all then you also just rebuilt the complete gearbox with new bearings with more than 70.000 miles on. if those 2 nuts at the main shaft or the pinion shaft will get loose you feel it by shifting not right anymore. but I think that this before has been all ok.if the car would be repaired at a garage then the garage owner is responsible even for things he not repaired and they would fail later ( so it is law in germany ), but jamie is doing all by himself and so I would not care just now about additional things to do.

you not remove the oilpump cover for the gearbox during a major service, only when something is leaking or not ok.

 

aluminum is also metal
you mean for sure: non magnetic metal?

 

You must use blue lock tight on crown bolts? Also is the quill shaft always replaced when performing this diff change? Or only if it becomes damaged? Is the ring and pinion also a big weak point that you have to worry about?