250* @ 25 minutes and it was nowhere near sliding on. Testing with old bearing and differential first. Going to try it at 450* Image Unavailable, Please Login
25 minutes at 450* and it didn’t go any further down. Letting everything cool and will freeze the plate and try a MAP torch on the bearing.
Admire ur resilience! U got this! Have u considered any local shop at this stage to do it for you? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Success. MAP torch for 15-20 seconds until bearing interior metal got 225*. Bearing slid right on. Image Unavailable, Please Login
A lot of FChat members have been very gracious with their time and all have said I can complete the job. Without them I wouldn’t be anywhere near where I’m at, Brian talked to me for almost an hour last night at 11pm explaining the measurements I need to get today. Yes if you look at it from start to finish it is very overwhelming and makes your head explode. But having such great people to walk you sage by stage makes it very manageable. I really have 2 parts left that are difficult. Preload and backlash. I am hoping to tackle preload this evening ad actually assemble the gearbox for measurements.
Another unofficial Ferrari tool to keep even weight on the bearing as it cooled. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Other side done. Going to let it all cool and will assemble the differential and start figuring out preload! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sorry to say this, but a couple of observations: that much gear oil does not leak out that fast unless there has been a structural failure in the case. It is gear oil if you small sulfur next, that Is most likely the diff housing welds have failed, which results in side forces the transaxle case can not sustain, and it cracks. This course of events can occur without any noise it seems. I have a 91 and replaced the carrier at 8k miles as a prevantative measure Some years ago based on some part what I have learned on this forum. do not drive the car any further. Take a close look at the complete case. and last, When you get this sorted, only use a GL5 Level lubricant, preferably synthetic . GL4 Levels do not have the shear strength needed for a hypoid gear set
I mean celsius, also have written C 250 ° fahrenheit is about 120 °C and I think that this will be not enough. may be it will work but also may be the bearing will cool down fats before it is completly on. so better a little warmer. that would be then about 3.300 ° C
Very generous FChat member offered me all his internals for the limited slip from a car with less than a 1/3 of the miles. Got all parts assembled tonight and will do preload fitment tomorrow. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I’ll Image Unavailable, Please Login
All the internals for the limited slip. He bought a Ripper differential and didn’t need his old internals.
Preload test #1. No gap left side 1.65mm gap right side How freely should the differential turn? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
when you have no play anymore and the diff is rotating easy you may go 1-2/100 mm less shim tickness. when you have a spring scale you may fasten this to a thin string what you put around at the diameter of the diff where the crown comes later and you may need then between 0.25 and 0,30 kg to turn the diff, so turning, not starting to turn because this needs more weight. 1/100 mm is about 0,15 kg. see that the diff will turn always the same, so not sometimes harder and sometimes less. also put oil on the bearings when testing. if you would have the special tool from ferrari then you need 0,18 - 0,20 kg. in the video it looks as if you already have some preload? when there is no preload and also no play then you kick the diff and it will turn alone a little. those feeler gauge shims are 1,65 mm? so positioned at 180°? then try first with 1,63 mm. but I think as you turn the diff that you have already some preload because it looks as if you use some force to turn? ripper differential? never heard about and also cannot find when I google
there you have already preload this looks good, but sound not good. you put oil on? if yes and it sounds so then you also have some play? you have a possibility to measure the axial play? you see it is a fact of 1/100 mm you mean 0,22 kg I think and not 22 kg. and yes, 1,68 mm seems ok
Coming in from left field here ..but would it be accurate to use one of those battery torque gauges from harbor freight and measure torque on axle nut .. 17 in pounds or so .. not sure if I got measurement correct ..but directionally I think you get where I am going ..maybe someone can give us some benchmark measures Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk