348 - Clutch Pedal Engagement- Little Resistance First 1/3 | FerrariChat

348 Clutch Pedal Engagement- Little Resistance First 1/3

Discussion in '348/355' started by Jasonberkeley, May 21, 2020.

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  1. Jasonberkeley

    Jasonberkeley Formula 3

    Apr 23, 2017
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    #1 Jasonberkeley, May 21, 2020
    On my 348 Challenge (which I do track), after getting the car back from annual maintenance, (which included a new throwout bearing, as old one was leaking), I noticed the clutch pedal on the car has little resistance the first 1/3 of travel. Then it feels "normal."

    Is this normal, and i've just forgotten what it feels like, or do you think I may have an issue?

    I searched and read through a number of clutch threads, but nothing I could find on this specific observation. Driven the car about 150 - 200 miles since I noticed this. No performance issues (yet).

    Would appreciate any feedback from anyone who has (had) similar experience and was it determined to be a problem, and if so, how was it fixed?

    Thanks!
     
  2. cardude442

    cardude442 Karting

    Jun 5, 2019
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    #2 cardude442, May 22, 2020
    I changed my clutch over the winter, which included an upgrade to Hill Engineering flange and bearing.

    While bleeding my clutch, which they should have done in changing your bearing, the clutch pedal was very light.

    Did you have them service the brake fluid (flush) on the car?

    My 348 Spider has a light pedal compared to my M3, but it’s consistent throughout travel.

    I went thru 3/4 of a liter of DOT 4 fluid (from Ferrari of Atlanta) bleeding the air out of my clutch before it became ‘bubble free’.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
     
    JL350 likes this.
  3. Koenig1

    Koenig1 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2016
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    #3 Koenig1, May 22, 2020
    my guess is you have some air in the delivery pipe up by the master. The initial 1/3'd is compressing the air, followed by proper flow/movement. I'll surmise that when they changed out the TO bearing, time allowed the system to drain.... and air in now in. You may have to bleed the master 1st, and then reattach the delivery pipe to completely get the trapped air out. Sometimes air will trap itself at the master, giving a mushy feel. GL.... get lots of dot 4!
     
  4. Jasonberkeley

    Jasonberkeley Formula 3

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    #4 Jasonberkeley, May 25, 2020
    Ive ordered a pressure bleeder which I should have this week. Will bleed and report back- thanks for the feedback all!
     
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  5. chris1866

    chris1866 Formula Junior
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    #5 chris1866, May 28, 2020
    You may have to bleed it numerous times to get all of the air out.
    I'm just wrapping up a major on my 355 and have bled the clutch at least 5 times, and still have a little bit of "mush" at the very top of the travel. Each time, more bubbles come out, and it gets slightly better.
    I'm using a Motive power bleeder. They work great. Good luck!
     
  6. Jasonberkeley

    Jasonberkeley Formula 3

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    #6 Jasonberkeley, May 28, 2020
    Thanks! Hope to get to it this weekend!
     
  7. Jasonberkeley

    Jasonberkeley Formula 3

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    #7 Jasonberkeley, Jun 7, 2020
    Was finally getting around to bleeding the clutch yesterday, and before I started noticed a rectangular shaped damp area on the floor under the clutch inspection cover. Damp area being same size as the cover. Not good. Wiped the inspection cover with hand and wet. Brake fluid. Called mechanic, and he reminded me that he replaced the seals in the throwout bearing and did not replace the entire unit, and that this fluid is almost certainly the throwout bearing. I recalled that he was correct. He said that best course of action was to replace the throwout bearing with a 355/360 upgraded unit. This makes sense to me, but not knowing anything about the differences in parts and compatibility, can anyone advise if they have done the same and how that worked out? Car is going back to mechanic today. Thanks for any help or feedback!
     
  8. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    #8 Ferrarium, Jun 7, 2020
    So he replaced the seals but not the unit or the bearing in the unit. Odd but ok probably cost more in labor that id=t does for a new Hill TOB. I suspect the triple seals BTW not the TOB. It is possible the TOB cracked like they tend to do, more so when clutch is worn for some reason. My advise when fixing a consumable item is always replace it, don't fix it.

    https://www.ricambiamerica.com/crb355ms-348-f355-clutch-release-bearing-168594.html
     
  9. bjwhite

    bjwhite F1 Rookie

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    #9 bjwhite, Jun 7, 2020
    3/4s of a liter? haha. Don't you mean 750mL? ;)
     
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  10. 308 GTB

    308 GTB F1 World Champ
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    #10 308 GTB, Jun 7, 2020
    Or 7.5 dL? :)
     
  11. Jasonberkeley

    Jasonberkeley Formula 3

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    #11 Jasonberkeley, Jun 7, 2020
    That is what he is going to be using, along with the updated Hill Engineering flange, etc...
     
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  12. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    #12 Ferrarium, Jun 7, 2020
    Right I am sure he is yes. What I am not clear on is why he pulled apart the old one and replaced seals and stuff in it originally, was it leaking then? And why nor replace it then, the first time. Have him check it out, the TOB may be fine its possibly the triple seals which if so, means need a clutch/pressure plate issues now too. As far as the flange it is only needed if you have the older flange I suspect on the Challenge car it has the updated flange. Best of luck and post up some track pics!
     
  13. Jasonberkeley

    Jasonberkeley Formula 3

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    #13 Jasonberkeley, Jun 7, 2020
    The throwout bearing was leaking first time during annual service. Nothing else. He said 9 times out of 10, new seals solve the problem, and much less invasive and cheaper, so I figured try that route first. Oh well- lesson learned!
     
  14. Ferrarium

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    #14 Ferrarium, Jun 7, 2020
    Does your mechanic wear a skippers cap?A little car talk humor for those who know the show talk ha ha. :p
    Ok glad it will get sorted, that TOB and clutch is on my list of things to do as well. Also the TOB casting actually cracks, pic courtesy of Ernie. Get the original part from the and post pics if so and report back if that curs your pedal engagement issue, good info for future folks.:) Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  15. Jasonberkeley

    Jasonberkeley Formula 3

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    #15 Jasonberkeley, Jun 12, 2020
    Hey Eric,

    Definitely getting original parts back. I will post pics. Also replacing the original clutch master cylinder as long as we are dealing with the clutch's hydraulic system. Working just fine now, but considering i'm tracking the car, better to be safe then sorry. Should have car back Monday or Tuesday.
     
  16. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    #16 Ferrarium, Jun 12, 2020
    Definitely best of luck!
     
  17. honda.vfr

    honda.vfr Karting

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    #17 honda.vfr, Jun 14, 2020
    The correct abbreviation for the liter should be written with a lowercase L
     
  18. 308 GTB

    308 GTB F1 World Champ
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    #18 308 GTB, Jun 14, 2020
    Both ml and mL are correct abbreviations. In hospital patient charting we use mL to avoid confusion of the lower case l with the number 1.
     
  19. honda.vfr

    honda.vfr Karting

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    #19 honda.vfr, Jun 15, 2020
    Sorry, my fault, you’re right .. In US it’s recommended to use L especially for the reason you stated - but not common in European countries using the metric system for a long time.. Sorry again, no more off-topic ;)
     

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