This is a photo of the M diff in my car Image Unavailable, Please Login I think you can see 3 of the 4 windows Paul is talking about.
The ‘creep of scope’ has gotten out of hand -Frame was dropped off at powder coating last week -Top of motor professionally repainted, along with powder coating of intake pieces -New clutch, CV shaft boots, valve clearance, cam timing, water pump rebuild, new differential carrier and second gear (while I’m in there) -Cleaning and refinishing of every major system and sub system Currently my wife thinks the car looks like a plastic model kit that you haven’t assembled yet. The car will be as good as I can physically make it when I’m done, even including a new high pressure AC line to the condenser (came out remarkably easy) run through the frame. I’m at hundreds of hours at this point and it’s kept me sane through the quarantine. Updates to come, I’m looking forward to having her back together. Goal is July 1 for fully done. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Update Mother’s Day edition; Newman’s absolutely beautiful differential carrier was test fit this week, waiting on some thicker shims to finish up. Suspension painted, new rear rotors, new pads of course, new brass injectors, full gasket set, rebuild water pump, new bearings, professionally painted (I went paint instead of wrinkle) intake and valve cover parts. Tons of detail work, not a restoration but certainly what I would define as a major Service. Hoping to finish up transaxle this next week and reinstall in the freshly powder coated frame. New aluminum radiators, new hoses, new AC line to condenser...you get the picture. Lots done and more to go. I’ll do new suspension bushings and rebuild the Konis another time. This is mission critical services now. The costs spiraled out of control quickly, at least ones that I hadn’t budgeted for. I could not have done what I’ve done without AgoCarNut, Newman, Melvok, Turbo Joe, Rifledriver and a host of you other guys. Thank you. This has been brutal in a one hole garage, simple tools and a quarantine that means it is all on my shoulders to do. No stop-by visitors and I’ve had to work in between massive hour chunks of work. It’ll be worth it when it’s done. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
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Indeed you did! Small world, his parents live across the street from my inlaws. Nice looking car, sounded great on the vid clips! Cassidy
You said you're in a one car garage, yet in one picture there's a Haas CNC mill in the background, a turret lathe and a manual lathe. You painting parts at a buddies place? On a side note, how do I contact Newman?
Majority of the (mundane) work is done in my home garage. With gloves, mask and much begging I have a friend with a shop across town. He has been super gracious in helping me with the phases I couldn't possibly do at home. I'm fortunate to have access to those resources. I've been in my little suburb house close to 20 years and wanted a bigger garage the entire time. This isn't the first driveline I've dropped in it, but certainly the most technical. As for Newman, he posted in this thread, one of the first pages. Send him a private message, super nice guy.
Few updates, diff setup complete, trans reassembled and reinstalled in the cradle. Looking good and feeling solid about my work. I updated the shifter seal to the later model spring-lip type. The OD of the later seal is 28mm. The ID of the front cover is 29mm. I 3D printed an adapter ring and pressed it in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I sure hope so! Lots of hours to get that look. It has good backlash and the best preload I could give it. Rest of my gaskets should be in tomorrow and I can drop the motor back on top. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Waiting on a front cover gasket....I had already installed the front cover and the water pump. Pressure tested for four hours without any drips or pressure loss, only to have the front main seal fold on installation. I had to pull the front cover back off. Installed a new front seal but had to reorder the front cover gasket (ordered with rush shipping...the parts guy rushed and it cracked in three places...now waiting on another out of Atlanta). Given me plenty of time to update and touch up the engine bay. Going back to European fuel tank vent and removing the Mercedes canister that was installed. Touched up lots of spots, replaced more braided lines (local company called Colliflower sells braided rubber airbrake lines for trucks, lots of selection and good fitment). Repainted all my exhaust components (non cat models) and finished what I could on the cradle. So far it is looking good, but I am getting impatient. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Motor back on top, belts test fit for cam timing, water pump held 14 psi for 5 hours. Runners back on top, wiring laid out and test fit cover for cable routing. Making headway! Both axles installed with new CV boots. When you turn the prop shaft, the rotors turn. It’s been a long time to get to that point Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Few updates from the week.... I finally got the proper shims to do the cam timing. What a simple process! It is really something that is easy to overthink. The proper .5mm gap simplifies it all and you can get cheaper shims from several supply houses. My time was worth 4 extra shims! New cam o-rings installed and torqued properly. New belts, new bearings and rebuilt tensioners. Fresh PPG two stage finish on the cam belt covers, cam covers and intake really look the part. It won't win for originality but it will look great for many years to come. I have a Facebook page that has documented my work since the day I found the car. It never dawned on me to share this with you all. Feel free to follow me if you are on FB, if not I think you can still see the pics. https://www.facebook.com/bellarossa2019/ Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've had quite a week of work. The driveline is in, the motor runs strong. Deal with the clutch several times. The formula from the WSM did NOT suit the kit from Eurospares. It calculated that I needed more shim, when in reality I needed much less. Throwout is happier, easier to shift and it isn't slipping. At least I didn't have much to pull back off as I hadn't finished the car yet. The trans was overfilled, simply as a byproduct of filling the drop gear multiple times and I developed a leak on the driver output shaft seal. Pulled it yesterday only to have it leak AGAIN. The Ferrari parts used to be Left and Right dependent, now it is a single part number, and it is a single lip seal. I am not impressed. Going to find a double lip, maybe a triple lipped seal. I see some people were using a VW/Audi part number, will get some of those so I have a few to select from. AC system is coming on and going off rapidly occasionally, so I will start by making sure I added enough referigerant. If I recall, the system held 40 oz of R12, and I read of FChat the system is happy at 32oz of R134. Proper conversion on the valves and oil was done prior to my ownership, and the system was evacuated, got down to 25-28 inches vacuum while open. The new AC pressure line that I had to run through the frame is working great. I'll get it sorted. Idle is too high, resting is about 1600-1800. I have a feeling I moved the big brass air valves when I polished them up. Will hook up a slack tube manometer and see what I get for balance. I had a very low mile Cross-Fire Corvette years ago and I got pretty good at balancing those throttle bodies. This looks to be straightforward. Otherwise I am pleased. The motor seems strong and I feel confident in the differential. Seems to be a ever so slight vibration around 2000 rpm but goes away quickly and it constant in all lower gears (haven't driven enough to see if it is present at higher speeds). I have a thought it was the clutch kit. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Make sure the idle microswitch is working properly (before tweaking all the various airflow adjustments). The easiest way to check its operation is to just unplug it at warm idle (even if the warm idle RPM is wrong): When you unplug it = the warm idle RPM should increase ~500 RPM. If the idle RPM doesn't increase when unplugged = bad idle microswitch or mis-adjusted.
This is the three wire throttle position switch on one of the throttle bodies? I know right where that is. Thank you. Will check that out. Is there a good tuning guide on here to reference for various adjustments/gas scans/voltages? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
The tooth that came off... Could that have been tig welded back on? I know on heave machinery the “create” missing teeth with mig/tig all the time... Once you’re in that deep though... probably unwise...
