Do you have a small battery which is powerful enough to illuminate the LED bar? If you can hook up the LED bar or even a single bulb to a small battery like this... Image Unavailable, Please Login ... opening the door (or turning on the dome light with the console switch) should illumate the LED bar. Note that the dome light is out of the test ciruit. If there really is a stray (unwanted) voltage on the BN wire, the LED light may not work or may shine dimly. LED lamps are sometimes polarised, so it can affect current flow. A small tungsten miniature lamp is probably better for testing purposes.
To be fair, I've only been working from the switch end. I'll have to check the lamp end when I get home. Reading your previous comment and checking the owners manual, I'm pretty sure the lamp is functioning backwards (being on constant while being rocked forward). This picture is all I know I've done up til now, until I can get home and check the things you're asking... just led red tapped into the white/black very close to the button, and using its own separate ground... I'll keep in touch when I can be hands-on, thanks again! Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm baffled! Lol, seeing this say the white/black is an earth/ground wire has me thinking... what's powering the LED bar if it's being connected to 2 grounds? I think when I get home I've got a lot of disassembly to do.
If the LED bar is tapped at the switch, it's the same situation as being tapped at the dome light. You will get some volts via the dome light bulb filament to illuminate your LED bar as long as no switches have been activated. It's just like having the dome light and your LED light in a "series" circuit... i.e. power (on the orange wire) > dome light bulb > LED bar > earth. If you push the console switch (on), the current won't want to flow through the LED bar (illuminating that), it will want to flow through the console switch straight to earth. If the LED bar still operates when you push the switch, then you need to check that the switch actually works (when not hooked up to the car) and also that the earth is good on the black wire going to the console switch. If the earth wire is bad, the yellow-red (GR) wire on the switch may even be powering your LED bar. Check the switch first before you start pulling other things to pieces. Then check all is hooked up properly on your dome light. Either your dome light is back to front or its connections are not right. When we run out of tests to do, then start pulling your forward luggage compartment to pieces Sorry, did you confirm that the backlighting worked in the console switch with your car's lights on?
Just wondering what this tap looked like. Was it a non-Ferrari wire? Did you use your LED bar to test for voltage?
Good afternoon. The wire tap was a quick splice connector with a female end, leading to the cigarette plug and spidered in with the security system wiring, I presume to watch for voltage changes? But anyways, with your help I have the lamp working but the button is still useless. Backlighting on the button does work, yes. I also turned the lamp 180° so rocking forward it works with the doors. Rocking backward it is constantly on. In the middle it is off.
I've found what I believe is the final problem. When the light is hanging, everything works fine- even the button! I pop the light up into the windshield frame and it doesn't work with the doors or the button, only with the "constant on" rocker location So there's a contact happening with the metal of the windshield frame and one of the lamp contacts. Thanks Qavion for all your help here!! You're great
Excellent outcome. I like the fixes which are free (apart from the blood, sweat and tears). I admire your dedication to resolving this. I recommend that you invest in a digital multimeter, though With a F355, you never know when the next electrical problem will come along. I'll add this fix to my files.
I second the motion. I know very little about electrics. And wiring diagrams look like spaghetti to me. But several years ago, I bought this multimeter... Image Unavailable, Please Login With it, I was able to locate the source of parasitic battery drain afflicting my Porsche 944 turbo. Placing the probes in the slots on top of the fuses, I narrowed it down to the circuit powering the radio and antenna booster. The radio was fine. There was a short in the antenna booster wiring. I hope it's a long time before I have to use it again.
