355 alternator removal help | FerrariChat

355 alternator removal help

Discussion in '348/355' started by k17har, May 17, 2016.

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  1. k17har

    k17har Karting

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    #1 k17har, May 17, 2016
    Hi, I am currently changing my alternator , and need some help on removal, I have seen the 348 removal , but fitting seems different then the 355, is there a thread for it or a step by step guide would be much appreciated. I am also planning to rebuild it or replace it with a alternative alternator. I have read some great posts by Ernie, and had a look at the Honda legend alternator which looks the same and it's made by denso, I may go for that option or Unless something better has been found by a brotherhood. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Eric C

    Eric C F1 Veteran
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    #2 Eric C, May 17, 2016
    I rebuilt mine in place. My hands were to big to get up and there to remove it.
     
  3. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    #3 yelcab, May 17, 2016
    If all you are doing is to change out the voltage regulator and diodes, then you can do this in place. If there is a bad bearing, or worn slip ring, then it has to come out. The only thing that works from the Honda unit Ernie found is the voltage regulator. The diode pack connector is wrong. The unit is also slightly larger so it does not fit inside the Ferrari housing. You can just get a voltage regulator by buying a new one from the place that rebuilds alternator.
     
  4. k17har

    k17har Karting

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    #4 k17har, May 17, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks for that info mich, so to do it in place, i just unscrew the 3 bolts for a start and then just follow the thread on the 348 rebuild post? Just for refference, My battery sign light comes up on idle, and when rev on high rpm, it goes away. I did read about the those symptoms. Hopefully iam going the right direction
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  5. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    #5 yelcab, May 17, 2016
    Those 3 nuts will let you slide the thin cover off. Then you have to get some small 1/4 inch ratchet, smallish right angle screw driver, undo the voltage regulator and diode pack. Slide them off. There is a set of brushes as well. Take picture.... notes.... and disconnect the battery.
     
  6. k17har

    k17har Karting

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    #6 k17har, May 17, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  7. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    #7 yelcab, May 17, 2016
    That is not a gear, it is a TDC and revolution counter. Drives the top dead center signal for your ECU and gives the RPM signal.
     
  8. k17har

    k17har Karting

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    #8 k17har, May 20, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Just an update, i decided to remove the alternator and get it checked up, As i didnt know the history of it and decided to get new reconditioned 1. Good as new, only cost me(£230) lot less then ferrari price.car running all sweet now. Thanks for help and info guys
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  9. The Outcast

    The Outcast Formula 3

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    #9 The Outcast, May 21, 2016
    Looks nice.
     
  10. Robert Gross

    Robert Gross Rookie

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    #10 Robert Gross, Jun 3, 2020
    What is the full OEM part number of this unit?
     
  11. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    #11 Ferrarium, Jun 3, 2020
    I was just going to ask the same question, part number and picture of the plug connection to see pin count and config.
     
  12. ClydeM

    ClydeM F1 World Champ
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    #12 ClydeM, Jun 29, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2020
    Same questions: I want to remove the alternator to take it to a shop. how the heck do you get to the top nuts & bolts?

    I saw this thread: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/top-alternator-bolt.602418/
    but that isn't helping much.

    I tried loosening the idler front bolt & loosening the tensioning bolt per Ernie's post, but the belt is still very tight. I loosened the bottom alt bolt and still no joy. I presume the top alt. belt is keeping tension.
     
  13. Ferrari Fanatic

    Ferrari Fanatic Formula 3

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    #13 Ferrari Fanatic, Jul 1, 2020
    Make sure you are tightening the tensioner adjuster bolt as that actually loosens the belt tension.

    If that still doesn’t loosen the belt then the tensioner adjusting bolt is bent and is a common occurrence. Ricambi has the bolt.

    FYI the top alternator bolt has nothing to do with adjusting the belt tension.
     
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  14. F355Bob

    F355Bob Formula 3

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    #14 F355Bob, Jul 1, 2020
     
  15. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    #15 emac, Jul 1, 2020
    FWIW, recently I had the alternator go out on my NSX, same era as the 355. Replaced the diode and regulator for about $100. Easy to do and fixed the problem. It looks just like the 355 and it seems you can buy the parts on ebay. So, if the rest of the alternator is ok (brushes/bearings) then repair should be pretty easy. Acura wanted over 1k for a new alternator!
     
  16. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    #16 yelcab, Jul 1, 2020
    Correct, if all you need is a new diode pack and regulator, that is a $100 repair. But, if the slip ring is worn and wearing a groove in the shaft, plus the bearing is loose, you need to let a professional rebuild it. That would be $375.
     
  17. ClydeM

    ClydeM F1 World Champ
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    #17 ClydeM, Jul 1, 2020
    I loosened the adjuster bolt, probably why the belt stayed taut. Time to try again.
    If I knew what model the ND was, I'd just buy the Regulator & Rectifier & replace in situ
    Thanks.
     
  18. emac

    emac Formula Junior
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    #18 emac, Jul 2, 2020
  19. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    #19 yelcab, Jul 2, 2020
    No it does not look like the one for NSX at all. The 12V post points the wrong way and the round connector has 4 pins vs 3 pins.
     
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  20. lanab

    lanab Formula Junior

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    #20 lanab, Jul 2, 2020
    Just make sure you buy a quality rebuilt unit, there are many dodgers out there selling cheap chinese replicas.
     
  21. ClydeM

    ClydeM F1 World Champ
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    #21 ClydeM, Jul 5, 2020
    That was it for the belt. Still fighting with the top bolt & space to crack it loose.
     

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