My 458 AVH Manettino and CST failure

Hi,
I had the same issue again and again...put a new battery, have the car always on the tender in the garage but it wouldn't help.
My local Ferrari doctor put the car on the SD4 and it was actually the brake switch that was diagnosed. It is a $40 part and a quick fix.
I had no issue since and I think I will just go ahead now and have that switch changed every year with the fluid service.

This was a disease on my 360 Spider F1 too...and I wonder what is always wrong with those brake switches...!? I mean BOSCH is a good brand and should it not fail that often.

Cheers

 

The most common problem is that the car is not driven routinely.
The solution is to drive your car often.
As far as the battery, when you shut off the car make sure that your HVAC, radio, seat warmer and any other systems are switched off. I suspect that sometimes the computer may keep feeding power to these systems even while parked.
I’ve had good luck with a Li Ion battery. Need to use a different charger/tender. I like the CTEK and with the plug adapter it will connect perfectly to the car.
Enjoy!

 

No electrical engineer here... but why wouldn't Ferrari install some sort of high capacity storage unit/battery back up that always provides the necessary voltage to the system? My TV, computer, etc. all have one. Would that not be the solution to these high tech cars that have systems that are incredibly voltage sensitive? Units themselves certainly do not cost much.
Just sayin'... But then again we still are battling the stickies in our interiors

 

Can you tell more about this issue? which part you replaced, I have the same problem with my speciale now, happened a lots of time recently, I thought that was a bad battery, but battery seems fine.

 

Literally the entire gas pedal assembly as the OEM part from Maranello. Called "complete accelerator pedal" , the pedal position sensor had a "dead spot" at approx 3/4 pedal position

They went through the car otherwise and all other tests came back as pass

Part was $457

 

This is quite true. Not discarting serious problems to which no Ferrari is immune, most of the problems/bells/whistles/catastrophic error code lights on a 458 can be traced to either a dying battery or a car that sits on the garage for 2 or 3 months without a good 60/70 plus mile road trip.

Kind regards,

Nuno.

 

I truly believe that if more owners put miles on their Ferrari’s, esp the new models, this would iimprove the breed.

Ferrari would be aware of the niggles whether they be mechanical or electrical., and be forced to Deal with them during the all important warranty period.

Parts suppliers would also have to face the reality of everyday reliability with A Ferrari

 

Agreed. The biggest issue with Ferrari reliability are most owners not driving their cars.

 

Hello, I have the same issue as well.
First I tried with two batteries, both less than year old, Li-Ion and AGM units, which give out the voltage as expected, and charge to full with automated chargers.
I believe it is something else in my case.
Pulling out the battery cable resets the warning lights. The car starts, revs and check engine light turns off normally.
The warnings start only after I put the car into gear, and press gas to start moving. That would point to abs or speed sensor in the wheel.

Brake lights work as expected.

Trip to dealer is about 70 miles, would there be any troubleshooting which could be done before contacting the dealer?

hrk

 

mine was a wheel speed sensor. A decent scan tool can read codes.

 

People always just change battery immediately, there are ways to test the battery first, why get a new one if the one you have tests out good

 

Great post, I’m going through the same issues intermittently with my 2010. Battery is newly replaced in December and the AVH/CST failure seems to happen when it’s a bit chilly outside. If I drive it for a bit turn off then restart seems to go away. I try and drive the car a few times a week, maybe need to take longer trips, lol.

 

Hello, I ordered Launch X-431 4.0 scanner, and ran the errors.
Here is what it found:
---Vehicle Diagnostic Report
The Report is created by
Pre-Repair
Repair Shop
Shop Name:heikin paja
Address:
Zip Code:
Telephone:
Email:
SN:989510046475
Test Time:2022-04-14 17:15:55
Vehicle Information
Year:2010
Make:Ferrari
Model:458 Italia
VIN:xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Engine Size:F136FB 4.499000
Odometer:62208 km
Vehicle Software Version:V11.00
Diagnostic Application Version:V7.00.007
Diagnostic path:458 Italia > F142 > Gasoline > Health Report
System fault code
Bosch ME9 Right Engine ECU (Master) 1 problem exist
1.P2140 Throttle/Pedal Sensor/Switch 'E' / 'F' Voltage Correlation
Bosch ME9 Left Engine ECU (Slave) 1 problem exist
1.2707153a Please Refer To Manual!
ABS Bosch Premium System 6 problems exist
1.C1161 Brake Light Switch Invalid Signal Absent
2.U1713 NPB Absent
3.U1701 NCM Absent
4.C1881 Variant Coding No Symptom Absent
5.U1700 NBC Absent
6.C1101 Faulty CAN Data NCM Invalid Signal Present
NTP (Tire Pressure Monitoring System TPMS) 1 problem exist
1.P0A20 No CAN Message (Status_B-NCM)(0281H)
NBC (Body Computer Module) 2 problems exist
1.B1047 Trunk Light

2.B1005 Battery Voltage
NCR (Gearbox System) 1 problem exist
1.270ad99b Please Refer To Manual!
NIT (Infotainment) 1 problem exist
1.372ec010 Please Refer To Manual!
NSP (Parking Sensor System) 1 problem exist
1.3732500d Please Refer To Manual!
NVO (Steering Wheel System) 4 problems exist
1.P010E Manettino Error
2.U1706 NFR Node Error
3.U1701 NCM CAN Error
4.3733d719 Please Refer To Manual!
NCS (Suspension Module) 2 problems exist
1.U1700 Lost Communication With NBC
2.U1701 Lost Communication With NCM
The following systems are OK:
1.NAB (Airbag System)
2.NCL (Delphi Climate Control)
3.NQS (Instrument Cluster)
4.NPB (Parking Brake)
5.NFA (Headlight)
6.NITC (Infotainment Canbox)
7.ION (Ion Unit)
8.NPG (Driver Door System)
9.NPP (Passenger Door System)
10.CSG (Steering Assistance)
----

Battery is full charger Li-Ion Antigravity battery reading 12.94v
Left front tire had 25 psi at the time of running the report, known slow leak dropping ~1 psi/couple of weeks.

Questions:
Where can I find the manual referred in error messages like "2707153a Please Refer To Manual!"

Thank you for your time,
hrk

 

Well, resetting codes left check engine lights on, but got rid of most others, manettino's etc.
Driving a few miles, filling up and then resetting the codes again made even check engine light off, and the car has been good for other few times 10-20 mile trips.
We will monitor the situation.
hrk

 

Thank you for all your input and sharing your experiences. In the past 2 months I've had Airbag and AVH warnings pop up twice which I hooked up my scanner and cleared them. I replaced the battery less than a year ago so I don't think that's the cause (but who knows)?

Then yesterday I was leaving my garage and got those errors plus a manatino error as soon as I put it in gear and started moving. All codes would clear but would come back instantly once I started moving the car again. The main code I kept getting was C1101 in the ABS system for a missed signal - Faulty CAN data NCM status invalid. I pulled the battery let it sit but it didn't work on restart. After a couple tries and scanning the ABS module specifically instead of the full diag scan I was able to clear the code and it stayed away. I did 50-60 miles after that and everything worked/drove fine and no codes.

All three times now the code(s) that I got were all CAN related (missing/invalid/out of range) not sensor related. Any ideas what to check since I changed the battery ~8-10 months ago.
Thanks for any ideas.
Frank

 

A failing brake pedal switch will cause a bunch of failure codes as well and then go into Wet only mode. $65 part.

 

Boiler,
Is it Ferrari PN 201957 (valid also for 219558) Push-Button Switch? link below. Ricambi has that switch for $39.18. That seems way too cheap for a Ferrari part.
If that's the part you're talking about I'll try that and getting my newish battery checked.
Thanks
Frank
https://www.ricambiamerica.com/car-diagrams/ferrari/v6-v8/430-group/f430-spider/pedals/201957-push-button-switch.html#

 

That's the one. Of course it's cheaper from a non-dealer!

 

Thank you for your response. I had the battery checked and it shows good and since it's only 8 months old I'm now looking at the brake switch.

I ordered the new Brake switch from Ricambi, it should be here Thurs. Hopefully it solves my seemingly random problems. I want to measure the resistance of the new vs the old one to see if there is a difference in various steps of the switch positions. I read in someone's post that the resistance was flaky in their old switch in a couple of the ratchet steps and the new switch didn't show that and seems to have fixed their issues. I'll follow up with my findings.
Thanks again for the help,
Frank

 

My car has been sluggish to start for a couple of weeks. Funny thing is it seems to be better after driving vs after sitting on the tender. I experienced the CST/manettino/ABS error yesterday for the first time. Because of this very thread, I was not worried. I shut the car down, waited and fired it back up. No errors. Ordered a new battery that will be here Wednesday. The current battery only lasted 2 years.

 

I can't wait to hear how absurdly it easy to swap out it is being that my dealer charged 2 hours for it. Although, I guess that does include diagnosis time with the Leonardo, and it's well worth it to NOT have those abnoxious warnings.

 

New brake switch came today. 15 mins to swap the switch (2 bolts to remove the HVAC duct and then twist out the switch) and another 15 mins playing with my scanner. No codes, much smoother looking response in the brake pedal live data and car drove good for a quick test drive with no codes so hopefully that's all it took. It's been an intermittent issue so only time will tell. Thank you to you guys for the brake switch idea and thanks to Ricambi for the quick shipping and $38 part.
Frank

 

Hi! Could you kindly please post a picture with the location of the switch? I plan also so change it myself and I don't want to guess too much .
Thank you.

 

Reporting back.
Replacing the switch did the trick, been code free and everything works perfect since. Thanks again for help narrowing down what my issue was.

Fanaticrom, See the attached pic for sensor location. You can't miss it once you remove the two bolts and the duct right above the brake pedal. It's the white switch that just twists in and is pressed against the top of the brake pedal arm. Hardest part is getting yourself wedged in there to reach everything and see what you're doing.
Frank
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Thank you very much Frank for sharing the photo and reporting back after replacing this "little" troublemaker