1979 308 GT4

Here is the new panel in place. As expected, getting 8 holes in the new panel in the correct place was a challenge. Because the original was so wrinkled and the holes were elongated.
After some trial fitting and filing of some holes, all 8 bolts went in.
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Ready to go for a ride. Just don't scrape going out of the drive...
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Beta,

It all looks good. What I did was cut some old 40mm water hose and slide a few pieces above below and in between those pipes in front so as to isolate them from vibration and rubbing. ave helms makes a drain connection that goes on that you normally pull off to drain the front system as to make it easier when changing fluid!

Rob

 

Alternator light issue again. Last time (back on page 2) the light illuminated continuously, even with the key out. That was due to failed diodes.
Now the light is appropriately out when the key is off. It comes on when the key is on but it won't turn off as the engine revs. May be a simple as a loose belt. Belt was squeaking last time out.

 

New water pump time. Alternator is likely OK. Water pump seized, melting the belt.

 

Just what you needed.

 

I don't have access to a place to do this kind of work anymore, though I was anticipating a belt change this year, thinking of doing it in my garage. Coupled with my increasing age (this thread started in 2006) I see a call to Studio 47. They did the belts and clutch on my Testarossa and it was a top quality job. So, on this 308, I'd have them do the belts and water pump and likely something else yet to be discovered. Also, it seems the 308GT4s have increased quite a bit in value, justifying a professional approach to the issues at hand.

 

Best to get a pro to see if there isn’t an underlying cause to the failure.

 

The seal has allowed moisture to corrode the water pump bearings. It breaks free with a little force but does not leak . Plan is to place a new pump and save old one for its core.

 

Over one year later; car is up on jack stands. Coolant has been drained.

Seems someone in the past has carved out notches in the front cam-belt cover so the water pump bolts can come out.

I used a oil filter wrench to hold the pulley to loosen the bolt.

I had to use a gear puller to get the pulley off so I could get a socket on the semi-hidden bolts.

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Notches in cam belt cover allowing bolts to be removed.
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Bad water pump bearing:

 

Bolts and nuts from the water pump.
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Parts order is in. Just waiting at this point.
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Somehow my internet "Basket" got messed up making that order. So, as indicated above, only a single 11500821 stud arrived. Getting two more from a local Ferrari part$$ outlet, hopefully this week. I also have 4 pieces of large hose 38 to 42mm of which none fits perfectly. So I have ordered some Gates 41mm from Grainger. Hope to have that this week also.

 

Mail order seems to be moving very slow these days, so patience is the rule. I have received the 24226 Gates 41mm tubing. It fits perfectly. Now I'm waiting on two studs and I'll have all the parts to get it back together and running.

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All the parts are here. New studs in place. Need to cut the tubing and it is almost ready to re-install.

 

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I just replaced those hoses...
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The new pump is in place. Getting torqued.
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Getting the new coolant hoses hooked up. It seems to be taking hours to get all the hose clamps back in place so I would be able to tighten them after everything is back together. In case there is a leak. That clamp won't do, has to come off and be turned around to the other side.

**Note to self** hose clamps in the distance not tightened yet.
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The broken coaxial cable to the radio antenna from post #294 (where the mice ate it) was addressed when I had the expansion tank out to re-repace the hoses today. I cut the cable as far back to near where it enters the firewall and the center conductor has been pulled out.

So still no radio reception until the rear seats come out (to replace the seat belts) and I can re-thread a new cable.

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I’m looking at a similar situation and will be interested to see how big a job it is to access the cable in the cabin
cheers

 

Runs under RHS of back seat. Really no way to replace it without pulling the back seat. Then it is a 15 min job [emoji4]


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