I'm hope you get this sorted out and it's not too bad. If it is F1 related ( I am NOT a mechanic) a good way to check is to open the drivers door and make sure that pump is turning off after a few seconds. I missed this in my car and it was running for ages. Good luck.
Seems the pump is good. It primes from 0 bar to 55 in 5 seconds. What I noticed is that the pressure drops even without shifting making the pump running often. From https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/content/16-smart-emt-f1-relay-ecu-recommendations the "failing" e-diff valve is causing some same pressure drop. The problem is that I AM NOT OPENING it and its still loosing pressure. This could be either the valve is always opened or there is some other leak. Could someone point the exact points i need to check for leaks (e.g. all bleed screws locations). I am waiting for the e-diff valve to be received (its in backorder in a UK store) and would like to know what to do and how to bleed the system correctly? And again the question - how could some 20-30km drive cause this - i never experience this when the car just started. The gears are shifting smoothly, car drives perfectly and in some times ... it starts. Could this be a bad fluid? I use regular DEX III oil. Read about and would try the Liqui Moly LM1127. P.S. Anyone in Europe could suggest a good dealer closer to my country "Bulgaria"? I've sent a request to ferrari.com. I had to be contacted about a date - over 2 weeks - nobody called in or emailed.
You really need someone with a proper scan tool to diagnose this but here are some things you can check to isolate: 1) with the Engine OFF, how many seconds between pump runnings? 2) with the Engine ON and in Neutral, don’t touch anything and again measure how many seconds between pump runnings 3) on the above, note how many seconds the pump runs each time This will give us general idea if there is system leakage, bad accumulator and health of the clutch/ediff solenoid Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
There's a suspension error in the video and a drive mode failure in another image so the first thing that I'd do is replace the battery. On to the F1 error: likely a pressure issue. The problem really needs in-person diagnosis with a diagnosis tool but.. Replace the pump relay as a matter of course. It could be breaking down under high load situations for example when the pump is running more often during repeated gear changes. Are you really confident that the pump is OK? If the accumulator was replaced the next place I'd look would be inside the bellhousing to make sure there isn't a leak on the EVF/clutch circuit. This is less likely to cause such a pressure drop with the rest of the system but it's an easy check to make. The actuator may leak internally as can the solenoids. You can measure calculated solenoid leakage via diag but not internal actuator leakage other than manually by checking the return hose.
As far as the above, Is it normal for the pump cycles to be the following: 1- Engine off - 2 mins 2- Engine on in neutral - 15 seconds 3- Gear one to gear three - 15 secs 4- Gear four to gear six - 2 mins 3- Primes for approx 4 seconds each time Thanks
An update on the case now. First - i have no success so far unfortunately.... Yes there is improvement but not the effect required. - Bought genuine pump and installed it - Send the actuator and power unit to ssautotech in UK for a 2.5k gbp full rebuild of both items! They show video that the system is holding pressure for long time on the testing stand and holds pressure for up to 4 gears - which is perfect! Rebuild included all evf valves, seals, new accumulator etc. So far what is NOT the issue is this: Pump, Actuator, Power Unit, Hoses. The leakage has been made as per requirements. And then the issue begins again: Engine off - car hot or cold - holding pressure for loong time. Engine on - car cold - holding the pressure for approx 25-30 seconds (until the pump kicks in), pump needs 4-5 seconds to do 53-55bar Engine on - car hot (90 C water temp) - holds for about 7-10 seconds, and the pump need about 8-10 seconds to prime to 53-55bar. Installed the Scud eMT smart relay - when the car is cold its fine, when it gets hot there is a blinking warning that the pump is on too often or for too long time. What i can conclude from the above tests is that the issue is somewhere from the F1 system circuit to the clutch as its connected with the engine on or off as well as the temperature. Good news is that i've already gone through the expensive fixes for power unit and actuator. Bad news is that i dont know what to continue looking at... Any suggestions? I've gone through some diagrams and think about replacing the F1 valve block (a black 2 tubes item) 220756 or 235706 (not sure which one should i take first). What else could cause the pressure loss connected to temperature and engine moving?
How about e diff control valve solenoid? I replaced that and my accumulator and it solved the issue. I had very similar symptom.
The point no one has mentioned is the pressure switch controlling the pump, if this is sticking you will get periods of the pump cutting in late. Also check the volts to this switch and the pump
E-diff solenoid valve is brand new, pump is brand new. Its kicking on time. The issue is the temperature and engine running. Its nothing with the actuator or power unit. Must be somewhere from the power unit to the clutch valve.
The red slow down light is associated with cat Temps and there should be a code thrown. When that red slow down light comes on it could send your car into neutral because temperatures are starting to climb. Its a precautionary measure to prevent damage to the engine. Also you will notice the engine missing. Thats because the ecu will shut down the side of the engine thats having issues. I've experienced this same issue. If it is in fact the thermocoupler, you can swap from one side to the other to help troubleshoot
LorenzoR, the slow down is yellow - the cats are good and yes the thermocouplers were changed when i supposed the issue is with the cats. After the diagnostics above its shown that the issue is the pressure loss. Here i am attaching some videos taken from launch live data. There are 4 videos: 1. Engine off, Cold car -> https://streamable.com/gwofjb 2. Engine on, Cold car -> https://streamable.com/04r4ww (the pressure drop is visible) 3. Engine off, Hot car -> https://streamable.com/wa9ng5 4. Engine on, Hot car -> https://streamable.com/gbn0x6 (worst scenario - severe pressure dropping and hard pump priming) I've gone through all 13 pages as if someone knows and can suspect some reason for the issue. As you can see if the car is hot or not doesnt matter when engine is off - the pressure stays. The difference in the pressure drop is in the other 2 videos.
I dont believe the f430 has separate cat ecu,s like the 355 or 360 has. I think the thermocouples send the signal to the main ecu
You're right. No secondary to ECU and OP claims thermocouples were changed. I'd confirm with an resistance measurement and if not that take the e-diff route. Odd they had an amber slow down with the e-diff. I'd expect an F1 light with an e-diff error.. but I'm not as familiar with the 430 subsystems. Edit: first thing I'd do is clean grounds even before replacing things.