For those of you who have tracked or driven the FF in summer heat, have you noticed a significant power loss with heat soak? I have been using my dragy to do a full review of the FF (with fabspeed tune) and the car runs much harder and faster in cooler temps...my best pass was when it was 58 degrees out...i got a 3.3 0-60 time with slight spin on a Power Start. Two nights ago I did the same thing with upper 80's and the car wouldn't break a 3.7 0-60 time. 4 tenths to 60 is huge and I know I was launching the same way. Just wanted to get everyones thoughts who may have experienced it. Here are a few videos of the action...hope you enjoy.
Doesn’t the ambient air temperature have more of an effect on air density (and hence power) than any heat soaking of your engine? A quick scan of an experimental study suggests that atmospheric pressure has more of an influence than temperature on engine power. So it’s quite conceivable that your fast run was done on a cold, high pressure day and the slow run was done on a warm, low pressure day...
Usually you lose speed on back to back to back type of runs. That is where the heat soak will show up. If you drove a ways out there your car will already be pretty warm so it doesn't take too many runs to build up power sapping heat. Ambient temperature makes a difference too. I find that my best runs are when the temperature outside is in the 60s. With 50s the tires may still be cold along with the pavement but in the 60s the pavement heats up enough with the tires to have good grip which makes a big difference in the PS starts. Were your 60ft times different? That's where those 0-60 times are affected the most.
You might want to put some high octane fuel.in it. Chances are that the Fabspeed tune does not like the heat and pulls timing. But with heat comes a higher DA, so that never helps either. Some hot conditions can put your DA several hundred feet above sea level Sent from my SM-G930F using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Precisely 93 AKI is minimum for an engine with a tune imho. Let me put it this way. I like to run 100 RON fuel which has an AKI of about 95 in the Lusso. It is bone stock with bone stock exhaust etc. If I put a quality 95 RON fuel with an AKI rating of about 92, I get less km/l. I don't feel like the car gets a lot more power on the 100RON, but the car definitely uses its ability to lean it out a bit more without any pinging. This tells me something important, which is that even on the lowest reccomended octane which is 95 RON, the engine fattens up the A/F a bit. If I were to tune that engine and add timing as well as dynamic compression, fuel quality will matter even more. So you have an engine with a tune and only run a fuel that is slightly over what it needs as a minimum. That's fine for a normal street driven situation where it sees the occassional throttle stab, but when you put it on the track and push it lap after lap, you need more. Try the 100 AKI and see how she likes it. I would not like to run less myself with a tune on track. In that situation, octane is part of your safety net. Sent from my SM-G930F using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Right, most of the oem tunes has not too much angle and lambda is a bit fat in order to face low octane gas or high intake temps without issue. (Perfect stoechiometric to little Lean Lambda helps power but gets higher combustion chamber temp, fat helps to cool down) Aftermarket tunes map higher ignition angle wich gives more power but once the ECU pulls it down power is lower than oem. I did some extensive tests with my Porsche Turbo; better 17°C angle vs 20°C the first pull and 12°C once the IAT raises... Octane is the key to hold angle, even more than heat (better high octane high heat than low octane low heat) so yes let's fill your car with 100octane gas if available. We had amazing results with E85 but needs upgraded fueling system because stoechiometry is about 10/1 vs 14,7/1 so far more gas is needed) 0-60 tests is not very "speaking" imho for >600hp cars, 60-130 is nice and stressless for the trans and clutches.
