Replacing Red Tach Face with Yellow

I managed to source the yellow 430 tach face and black speedometer/gauge faces and I'm ready to start the project. I found a thread on another site describing (in little detail) the poster's experience. He mentioned not having to remove the steering wheel because the lower two hex screws were missing in his vehicle. That may not be the case with my car.

Is there a thread on here covering this topic (I searched, no joy) as well as removing the steering wheel if necessary?

BTW, this Tach face/speedometer face is a one piece unit.

Thanks

Ray

 

Great, thank you, I'll check it out!

Ray

 

On Ebay. From a Chinese company that shipped it surprisingly fast. I know it's probably an IP violation by them but $280 delivered beats $680-plus form another source.

Here is the link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124196039490

Hope this helps.

Ray

 

This is never going to be a collectable car so I doubt it will matter. They made 15,000 of these which is why, relatively speaking, they go for bupkis...

 

Besides, I can replace all the gauge faces so they will have the same font, and I think it a bonus that it's the Scud font.

 

Of course. I can't do the KPH to MPH in my head. They DO sell the Klicks-per-hour version but you need to specify which version you want in the comments section of the order.

If anyone is interested in the RED tach face with all accompanying gauge faces I'll sell them. Make me an offer in a private message. Keep in mind these are the original faces for the 430 Berlinetta with the correct "fonts" and not the oh-my-god "Scuderia" fonts so if you're looking to restore a classic F430 these are kosher. I will ship them in the original packaging the Yellow one was delivered in which was pretty sturdy.

Ray

 

Acquiring them is the easy part.

Installing them is a real chore. If you don't have a long handled T-bar 4mm hex driver removing the 4 bolts is excruciatingly slow since you can't actually see the bottom two. Depending on the age of the vehicle the four connectors on the gauge cluster can be a bear to remove without resorting to a tool that could damage them. Do NOT rotate the spindles after you remove the needles otherwise the potentiometer beneath them gets confused. Put a piece of hard plastic over the part of the tach face where you will use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently pry off the rubber covers. The spindles have a crescent-shaped concave groove in them, the needles have a corresponding convex protrusion that correctly locates the needle on the spindle.

Do *not* remove the goo under the old tach/speedometer faces. That goo holds the thin faces tightly against the back light element.

Make certain the battery is disconnected beforehand.

You will be rewarded with a happy tach face.