F430 Hydraulic F1 Pump Failures - Reality or Myth?

There is a simpler version of the Smart EMT relay noted above that does not have all the diagnostics and beeps. Contact Steph and he should be able to help you.

 

Did you ever figure out how to get rid of the Slow Down Warning? I experience the same issue but obviously there are like 5 different ideas of what is causing this.

Thanks for any updates!

 

Wow.. that’s crazy. I’m gonna do that and replace the relays first to see what happens. I have a bit of a low volt off the right fuel pump and we were thinking maybe that was something that could be throwing it off. Thanks.

 

The default mode of the Smart eMT Advanced F1 relay is to only flash the blue light when the pump runs. In its default configuration if it beeps and shows other than a green light only if there is a problem in the F1 system, but it is usually not the pump, but rather a worn-out accumulator. Failure to respond to a failed accumulator will then inevitably lead to a burned-out pump motor.

I started with the Basic version but had to buy the Advanced version when I discovered all the complaints about excessive beeping were from people who misconfigured the Advanced version.

Send StefVan a PM. He is quite knowledgeable about the issues involved with the F1 and E-diff. And he communicates well.

I have all but one of his products, and they work as advertised. My final purchase, barring his release of something additional, will be the SEST Smart ECU for testing the E-diff. There is some good information available here, but alas also misinformation. Woes about the Advanced eMT F1 Relay are among the latter.

Ray

 

My Scuding eMT monitoring unit revealed a potential F1 issue last weekend while on the interstate. It indicated that the F1 pump was priming every three shifts which was highly unusual. I provided a video to Stefan at Scuding, and he indicated that the accumulator was probably leaking. I have had a new accumulator on the shelf for a couple of years, figuring that my 17-year-old vehicle was going to need a new one sooner or later.

So, for me, I have gotten my money's worth from Scuding's electronic relay. I am grateful to Stefan for giving me a diagnosis without a fee. Now that is customer service!

 

Can anyone tell me if this topic is the same as F1 Gearbox Failure warning light ?
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Yep, that is the warning. Looks like a trunk is unlatched but it is F1 problems.

 

FWIW, my F1 gearbox indicator never flashed when the F1 pump began to prime excessively. It was Scuding's monitoring unit that alerted me that something had changed

 

That's exactly why I removed the Basic eMT Relay and installed the Advanced eMT Relay. The basic unit replaces the mechanical relay which could fail and cause the pump motor to burn out. But the advanced unit monitors how frequently, and how long, the pump runs. In its default mode it beeps only if there is an issue.

My tank had a similar system for turret traverse and gun elevation. Periodically ― and almost always at night in combat ― the pump would run as the hydraulic pressure in the system got low, in order to re-pressurize the system. If it ran too long or too frequently (and it made a noise that went through your bones) it meant there was a leak and we had to add cherry juice to the reservoir and find the leak. Not too hard since it got its name from the color.

 

Page 17 of the attached (available on their website) to configure the unit to disable the beep during normal operation.

 

I ran into this thread after experiencing F1 transmission failure light with chime and then yellow check engine light restricting my car to only first second gear and neutral.

Luckily all this happened just a mile from my home.
I have read countless threads everything seems to be leading back to the F1 pump relay.
I just recently purchased this car everything was up to spec upon purchase.
I did buy a code reader and observed several codes p1742 popped up after the so-called incident above.
Which only happened after I had the car in auto mode which I normally never do.

I was able to get the car home I let the car sit for a couple hours cool down.

I go out to the garage after a couple hours and the F1 transmission failure light has gone off and recycled however the check engine light is still on.

I read the codes took pictures of them.

Most applicable was the p1742 code

Then I ventured to the relay compartment behind the driver's seat to locate the red relay for the F1 pump.

Upon removing this relay which was very difficult I noticed that some of the pins were discolored like they had heated up.

Upon that observation the first thing I thought of is this F1 relay heating up excessively and may have caused my most recent issue.

After observing the prongs on the relay noticing they were discolored and almost looked heated up.
I took measure to order a another relay it won't be here for about the next 25 days it must be coming from Zimbabwe..
All kidding aside I cleaned up the contacts on the relay.
Inserted it back into the car F1 pump cycles as it normally has for about 4 to 5 seconds maximum.

Don't think for a minute I wasn't disheartened when I pulled that relay out It was almost like it was fused in the socket.
Coming to the realization after reading many posts on this thread that this $30 relay could be the cause of many people's paranoia about the F1 transmission.

Having one of these on hand and an extra in the glove box will come in handy obviously.

I'm going to make it a point to change out this relay every couple of years.
However I'm still a little disheartened and feel lucky that I wasn't less stranded somewhere via this last little debacle.

So I do believe I'm going to be making a trip into the dealership ASAP to see if they can find anything else that may have caused this problem of the F1 transmission failure light coming on.

It's just so strange it happened after I toggled in and out of auto mode.

The trouble lights came up almost instantaneously after toggling out of automatic mode.
Which I never drive in always paddle shift this car.


Sadly I was unable to take any pictures before I cleaned up the relay but believe me when I say this it look like it was heated up the prongs were discolored to the point where something was definitely bringing the temperatures up on this component.


What I'm going to do is leave that little panel behind the driver's seat on attached and I'm going to drive the car the next convenient 50 plus degree day which is coming up in a few days.

I will see if that relay heats up.
I do have an extra on order however finding this thread is giving me a little piece of mind after what I went through and just purchasing this car this whole situation has me a little unnerved to say the least.

But the original OP brings up F1 paranoia and I think there's a lot of that out there for no reason other than this goofy little F1 relay.

I'll post a reply when I can when I get some information about this.

As I found out through many threads every piece of information is important when it comes to this diagnostic of these components.

It led me here.

Thank you again for everybody that took the time to post up information regarding this topic.

I will do the same and I thoroughly enjoy this Ferrari f430 it's a 2007 beautiful spec.

Car runs great just a blast traded in a addition one AMG GTS with only 6,000 mi I never drove that car.
That hood reminded me of my viper and why I sold that as well.lop

Just love the visibility in this f-430 and it makes it possible for the wife to drive this every once in a while and leave the GTR in the garage.

So pretty much two to three weeks in the ownership of this used 2007 f430 with only 11,000 mi on it I have experienced what everybody talks about..lol however having the budget to repair just about anything alleviate stress but believe me it's a little bit unnerving.

 

Code 1742 = gear selection potentiometer (on gearbox actuator). Common failure. Relatively easy to replace on the 430 I believe.

Any relay supplying power to a high powered pump will eventually get warm.

 

Hey thank you so much I was just happy to be able to pull that code.

This relay looks like it's been in the car since day one almost looked heat worn which like you said maybe expected.

I'm going to have a mechanical relay around for backup and a solid state relay definitely installed as soon as it arrives in the mail.

Thanks for the info as I'm going to be scheduling a service appointment real soon I'll also have them check the actuator screws make sure nothing has come loose.

There's a lot of great information on this website I can't thank all you guys enough.

 

I highly recommend this:

https://www.scuding.com/Shop/en/ecu-solutions/101-smart-emt-relay-ecu.html

 

Ralay definitely looks like it was original.
Little bit crispy looking.
I'm wondering if this was just an anomaly those trouble codes disappeared over the course of maybe just an hour once I returned home.
Hmmm??

 

The original mechanical relays have a history of contacts freezing, burning the sockets, failing.

When I removed my original F1 relay the socket contacts were also scorched just the like the other members shared here. And it was very difficult to remove.

I installed the Scud Ing Swiss solid state relay on my (now sold) F430 and now I no longer have no worry about that issue.
We cannot put a price tag on peace of mind.

I swear too that after installation of the Scud Ing Swiss F1 solid state relay on my car the shifting has improved & more crisp but others say I'm dreaming. To me it makes sense as solid state relays have no mechanical contacts to engage and disengage so engagement of power connection is much faster.

At any rate, just sharing knowledge and experience.

 

I really appreciate you chiming in here on this you know I'm a new owner so I'm a little bit nervous about this whole situation.

Like you had stated though this thing was scorched and my common sense tells me if that relay is cycling as much as it is for the past 11,000 plus miles it's way past replacement.
I'm going to have a mechanical relay in the glove box ..
But I did order the solid state relay and I do believe the hiccup I had in the code that I threw p1742 was because the relay had a little bit of a hiccup.
Man there is nothing more unnerving than seeing a cavalcade of trouble lights on the dashboard getting the car pretty much put into limp mode.

I do think this was the root of my recent problem fingers crossed.
I'm hoping to get a few warm days so I can drive the car around locally so I can get a little more comfortable with the thing after this incident.
Hope more people chime in on this I know there's quite a few threads but I'm curious currently what's going on some of the threads are older.

I'm at that 11,000 mi gestation point and it's a new car and I've got my eyes wide open.
This forum has been a massive asset makes me feel comfortable owning this car knowing the amount of information that stored here.
Can't wait for that solid state relay to show up and install it.

I can't wait for that solid state relay to show up

 

I am really curious to know more about the potential issues you can have with solid state relays. In my work field (non automotive) we are not allowed to use solid states when a closed short is causing side effects. An electromechanical one is always safer. But I might be wrong in this case.
I just don't simply belief it's better just because it's solid state.

 

I’ve had the scud Ing Swiss relay for two years and over 2500 miles. I agree with whattheheck in that it seems to make the shifting better and no more worries about the mechanical relay. My relay also showed signs of arcing on the posts.

 

Absolutely agree with the original engineered application of a mechanical relay.

Considering the fact that the vehicle is as old as it is 2007 if there's a updated technical advance that's been made somehow that will most likely act as a fail safe I'm on board 100%.

I agree with you though because mechanical relays have been in business for decades.
Upon inspection my relay look like somebody baked it in an oven.
Overtime the relay did suffer from overheating there is no doubt.
That would be a concern for me Knowing all the while the solid state relay may not ever overheat.
People make mention of these improved shift times which I find interesting.

Could it be the solid state relay is enabling a quicker interface with the F1 transmission over the mechanical relay I'm curious as hell.
I was a little bit shaken up when my car went into limp mode but after reading everything on this forum that everybody's posting I think there's a solution somewhere embedded in all this information.

Same as everybody else I don't know what it is but it sounds like the solid state relay people haven't had any issues since using that application.

Can't wait for this thing to arrive and I'll sleep better and be more at ease when driving that's for sure.

 

Thank you for your input.
Validates my reasoning behind getting rid of the mechanical relay .