(3.2 Cab) What stays on when the key is off? | FerrariChat

(3.2 Cab) What stays on when the key is off?

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by blownfuse, Sep 20, 2020.

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  1. blownfuse

    blownfuse Karting

    Jul 16, 2012
    104
    Campbell, California
    #1 blownfuse, Sep 20, 2020
    I'm trying to undo a botched wiring job the previous owner(s) used to bypass the fuel pump relay and install an aftermarket stereo + amplifier.

    Right now, when I turn the key off and pull it out of the column, everything in the center console still works, including the windows, the HVAC, etc. Also, the dash clock remains illuminated as well as the low oil pressure light.

    After reading through the wiring diagrams, taking copious notes, etc. best I can tell is that I should only have power to the parking light switch, and the dash clock. Is this correct?

    Bonus points for the answer: how many milliamps should be drawn from the 12V battery when the key is off? Right now I'm drawing 1800 mA which doesn't keep the battery charged for very long...

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. spicedriver

    spicedriver F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2011
    3,859
    #2 spicedriver, Sep 20, 2020
    44 mA

    Lots of things work with the key out:

    fronk latch
    engine cover latch
    fuel door latch
    headlights
    parking lights
    door lights
    dome light
    instrument lights
    emergency flashers
    antenna lift
    clock
    door lock buttons
    horn

    Things that don't work:

    rear trunk latch
    glove compartment latch
    rear window locks
    window lifts
    turn signals
    windshield wipers
    cabin fan

    I probably missed a few things.
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,123
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #3 Steve Magnusson, Sep 20, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
    Most of this stuff is controlled by the "relay for key controlled services" which is called relay U in your US OM. It should be unenergized when the key is off, and energized when the key is on. Looking into its (incorrect?) operation would be my suggestion (and making sure it's the right type of relay = ...113).

    With an aftermarket radio and clock something like 50 mA would be reasonable, and 100 mA would be high-ish but still sort of OK-ish. 1.8A is unacceptable (but is the kind of current value you might get if the relay for key controlled services is energized).
     
  4. blownfuse

    blownfuse Karting

    Jul 16, 2012
    104
    Campbell, California
    #4 blownfuse, Sep 20, 2020
    You fellas are great, thanks for the responses!

    So you know what I'm up against, I can pull relay V (V is for key control, U is for low beams) and everything stays energized.

    Its only when I pull relay H (for glass lifter motors) that everything goes back to normal. My current drain drops to 80 mA and only the expected circuits (dome light etc) remain active. The relay is warm when I pull it... it's stuck on as long as the key is removed!

    Replacing relay H, I'm fine. Only after I turn the key on then remove it does relay H become stuck.

    Probably not an issue, but the fuse board is from GT Car Parts and has been flawless otherwise. Put new life back into the car.

    I'd guess someone also tried to install a window speed-up relay but the windows are as slow as a stock Mondi. Still digging through the car.
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,123
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #5 Steve Magnusson, Sep 20, 2020
    Do you have a euro version 3.2 Mondial? On euro version, the relay for key controlled services is called relay v; on US version, it's called relay U.
     
  6. spicedriver

    spicedriver F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2011
    3,859
    #6 spicedriver, Sep 21, 2020
    You can measure for the voltage to energize the relay at the socket, after you remove the relay. If the voltage is there, the problem could be with the ignition switch itself.
     
  7. blownfuse

    blownfuse Karting

    Jul 16, 2012
    104
    Campbell, California
    #7 blownfuse, Sep 21, 2020
    Sorry, no, it's def. a US Mondial. I'm probably working off euro diagrams, I dunno. I have like 3 or 4 different downloads I'm cross-referencing to do this work. Too cheap to buy manuals, just downloading what I can find for free.

    There's some suspect wiring under the ignition switch. For one, there's a tap on the blue wire that goes to a relay under the hood to bypass the fuel pump relay on the relay board... am still figuring out what's been done to this car. But the switch itself is in good shape.

    Thanks again for the suggestions. Big can of worms, this one.
     
  8. 350HPMondial

    350HPMondial F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 1, 2002
    5,192
    18 mi from the surf,, close to Pismo, CA
    Full Name:
    Edwardo
    #8 350HPMondial, Sep 28, 2020
    ok,, idea.

    Work backwards. ,,,,,

    disconnect battery,, ground cable first.
    get ohms across the battery cables.
    (aka,, The health of the system. )
    Should be almost 0 ohms,, ..!
    ( 0.1 maybe. from clock power.)

    now ,, start disconnecting fuse box connections,,, radio ,,,,,, One at a time,,, check Ohms between any changes.

    good luck.
     

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