Goo Morning, can anyone chime in about installing new front rotors on a '88 328 GTS US spec? Are they anything different than any other car of the era? Anything I should do "while I'm in there?" Yes I did search for old threads but there was nothing specific, it was all part of changing out the suspension bushings threads. Thanks, Lester
Lester, I'm restoring an '89 328 GTS, currently doing the interior, so please take photos. I'm doing the same. Thanks! Mike
Not really -- in fact, they are more like "any other car" than most F since 328 have floating, not fixed, calipers. Your biggest problem may be the old rotors being rusted onto the hubs if they have never been removed before (I always spray a little PB blaster to wick into the joint between them when I've got a wheel off, and am wiping down the wheel mounting surface of the rotor with PB Blaster before putting the wheel back on). Unless your brake fluid is very fresh, I've never liked forcing the old fluid back up the lines to move the piston(s) back into the caliper to get new pads or new rotors in -- better to open the bleed screw(s) and force any old fluid out that way, if necessary. Of course, needs bleeding afterwards to be safe, but you should be doing that anyway if you are already that deep in .
There may be some very thin alignment shims on the caliper bracket where they mount to the hub (thin washers on the mounting bolts basically). Keep an eye out for them when you remove the bolts & make sure they go back where they came from. Clean & grease the caliper pins & might be a good time to clean & regrease your wheel bearings (they are expensive to replace). I use permatex stuff on the caliper pins every time I take them out & I used Redline CV/bearing grease in the wheel bearings when I last had them apart. Thin smear of copper grease behind the disk where it contacts the hub will make it easier to remove if you ever have to do so again. New rotors/disks = new pads obviously. Keep them clean & then take the thing out & bed them in properly. Lots of different views on how to do that, I've always used the 10-15 hard stops from 60 down to 10-15mph (without actually stoppping) method, then drive around for a bit to let them cool back down before parking it.
I had the brakes completely re-done, along with the suspension. The calipers were rebuilt and painted, and the rotors are brand new. Keeping track of all the shims is very important. The ride and handling was transformative. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks guys!! Good to hear. And, just so you know, I have no intention of doing wheel bearings, not even sure that I will do pads I do like the hint about letting the fluid out the bleed nipple, simple when given a little thought. I am changing out the drilled rotors for stock although I will check the pads before I commit. What about flex lines? I don't want the SS look and I know that I can get SS lines with the rubber covering so that they will look stock. Lester PS there will be a set of drilled front rotors coming up for sale soon-ish.
Well, you asked for things to do while you were in there! If you have never touched them, the grease in your wheel bearings is over 30 years old. Odd to re-use existing pads on new rotors even if they are nearly new. If you must then at least get a piece of glass & some sandpaper & flatten the surfaces first. You can get braided lines in all sorts of colours - including black and yes, if they have never been changed I would definitly do it. I am thinking about doing mine again, its been nearly 15 years since I did them. If you do go there be careful with where they join onto the fixed pipes, soak in lots of penetrating fluid
No big deal. I installed a complete front Brembo kit in my driveway one afternoon. That was in about 2003. My only other experience was a few times on a VW Scirocco in the same driveway when I was a teenager. Stupid easy.