Maserati Khamsin | Page 361 | FerrariChat

Maserati Khamsin

Discussion in 'Maserati' started by Maeter, Feb 24, 2008.

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  1. rga

    rga Formula Junior

    Jul 14, 2012
    342
    Switzerland
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    Roger the Dodger
  2. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 World Champ
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    Quite possible.

    K 1084

    Auto white black

    1975 Maserati Khamsin
    Car Information
    Year: 1975
    Marque: Maserati
    Model: Khamsin
    Chassis #: 1084
    Engine Number:
    Engine Cylinders:
    Induction:
    Shifter Location:
    HP:
    Left Hand/Right Hand Drive: N/A
    Body Type: N/A
    Exterior Color: White
    Interior Color: Black
    Odometer Shows: 0
    Miles / Kilometers: N/A
    Wheels:
    Seats:
    Auction Information
    Auction Location: Scottsdale, AZ
    Auction Lot Number: 322
    High Bid/Sold Price: $14,000
    Sale Status: Sold
    Sale Date:
    Event Name: N/A
    Auction Company: Kruse
    Auction Data By: Sports Car Market Magazine
    Condition Rating: 3-
    SCM # 9121
    Condition Description: Automatic, 40k miles, Paint stating to go away. Interior okay.
    Market Opinion: Fair enough price, especially for an automatic.

    End of quote. When they were that cheap they easily vanished due to lack of comittment from spur of the moment buyers, probably sitting somewhere gathering dust.
     
  3. AMLC

    AMLC Formula Junior

    Apr 4, 2009
    597
    Hello Roger, no, I think you need an Ebay account to contact the seller and I don't have one
     
  4. AMLC

    AMLC Formula Junior

    Apr 4, 2009
    597
    Yes, you're right the mirror is not the same, but maybe they replaced it?.

    In post #8775 Walter mentioned that #382 was sold recently..
     
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  5. wbaeumer

    wbaeumer F1 Veteran
    Consultant

    Mar 4, 2005
    8,826
    #382 was sold by Bastian on my behalf recently. It was not correctly restored and lacked detailing. The owner complaint to the -well known- resto shop in Germany. After they corrected the mistakes, I accepted the job to broker the car and moved it to Bastian`s premises.
     
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  6. rga

    rga Formula Junior

    Jul 14, 2012
    342
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    Roger the Dodger
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  7. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    Apr 22, 2006
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    Did you ever find a radiator drain plug?
    Ivan
     
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  8. barnfieldman

    barnfieldman Rookie

    Apr 18, 2006
    45
    bottom of the radiator under the lower coolant hose
     
  9. dkbluec4

    dkbluec4 Rookie

    May 29, 2006
    47
    Northampton UK
    Full Name:
    Neil Lefley
    I am ready to put the centre console panel back into #393, but have a problem with the vacuum switch for the Fresh/Recirc doors.
    I've worked out how to connect it, but the tube that goes to the Fresh door is broken off the switch.
    It looks to have a Chrysler symbol on the switch body.
    Is there anywhere I can get one, before I try a repair ?
    Thanks,
    Neil.
     
  10. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
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    Art
    #9010 71Satisfaction, Dec 8, 2020
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2020
    Thank you yes, dkbluec4 sent me PM and we corresponded on that and a few other points..

    The drain plug is there, under the passenger side tank - where mine apparently got pushed in, but nonetheless - the location was inaccessible and therefore useless. I cracked open the bottom rubber hose to drain the coolant. My radiator is back from the shop. Straightened, re-cored, tested and painted, with a more efficient, modern core that should improve cooling. The OEM core is a set of single fins across all the tubes. Modern cores have multiple staggered fins across all the tubes. The AC condenser will be removed, and the AC system abandoned in situ.

    Here is the corner tank with the drain plug - before and after.
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  11. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 World Champ
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    Hi Art, well done for the radiator work but you might regret the AC system in summer. It is quite cleverly made and efficient, it just takes some figuring out. FYI there are specialists servicing classic car ac systems (see Hemmings ads for example) to whom you could send the main bits. I would suggest you look into that route....
     
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  12. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    Apr 22, 2006
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    Thank you. Even after you told me where the drain plug is located it took some time to find it since access is on side.
    Ivan
     
  13. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    Apr 22, 2006
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    The drain plug is accessible through an opening on the bottom right of the car, not exactly where you would expect to find it.

    While your radiator is out you may want to flush the block by removing the thermostat and shooting high pressure water through that opening. There is a tool for this.
    https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6043-Blast-Vac-Multipurpose-Cleaning/dp/B000F5ECRW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=engine+flush+tool&qid=1607526268&sr=8-2

    Your radiator looks great!

    Ivan

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  14. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

    Jul 15, 2012
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    Art
    Thanks Ivan,
    Absolutely, yes there will be lots of flushing..
    Anything and everything is being disassembled and removed for cleaning, flushing, rinsing, bench testing, repair/replacement, refinishing, or refurbishment. Last week was coolant system, headlights, AC and air horns. This week is LHM system. Next week is oiling system. After that comes fuel system and carbs. And so forth...

    To wit the LHM system:

    1.) How often have any of you cleaned the filter screen in your LHM reservoir? Did you know there is one?
    - Refer to Table 23, Parts 167 and 171 (top right corner of page).. there is a removable/reusable filter screen inside Part 171: Disconnect rubber LHM hose Part 7. Peel Part 167 off the metal flange to reveal the metal cap below. Unscrew the metal cap and you'll find it holds Part 171 in place. Pull out Part 171 and notice the bottom pulls out to reveal a tapered filter screen element that probably hasn't been touched in 40 years. Flush the screen with solvent*, dry and reinsert. Reassemble in reverse order. *If you are storing the parts for a while before reassembly, put some LHM back on the screen's rubber gasket so it doesn't dry out.

    2.) How often have any of you removed and flushed the LHM reservoir?
    - Refer to Table 23, Part 5. Use an 8mm hex socket to loosen and remove the reservoir's hold-down clamps. Disconnect all hoses, but support hoses Parts 115 and 93 upright to retain their LHM. Pull off the rubber cap Part 111 and set aside. Lift reservoir Part 1 up and out. Spill the LHM out through the hole left by Part 111. Look back where the LHM reservoir was resting on top of the oil reservoir, and check if there is liquid to clean out from the circular catch basin. From the LHM reservoir, remove Part 167, 171 per above. Look into the reservoir and void left by filter and check for debris and sludge. It should be shiny clean metal. Anything black is sludge. Pour solvent into LHM reservoir and shake, then empty the solvent out. Repeat until solvent comes out clean. I used a set of alligator forceps with paper towel held at the end to reach sludge and particles from the bottom of the cavity for filter Part 171.

    See photo of disassembled LHM reservoir, filter screen and metal cap with top rubber cap.

    Cheers,
    - Art


    View attachment 3051541 View attachment 3051542
     

    Attached Files:

  15. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

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    Thanks, summer temperatures have been manageable so far.. I haven't been uncomfortable in the Bora vacationing with my youngest son for two weeks in August... so I expect the K to be the same. Global Warming though... ! LOL.
     
  16. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 World Champ
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    Whatever is your preference, though you may find there is more heat transfer from the engine bay in the K than in the Bora but hopefully not.
     
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  17. Mexico074

    Mexico074 Formula 3

    Aug 14, 2008
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    Hello Art ...

    Nice work on the LHM tank and clean out instructions!

    Thank you...

    Mike
     
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  18. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    Apr 22, 2006
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    Hi Art

    Looks like you and I are going through a similar process of sorting out a Khamsin. For me it started out as a simple "let me adjust the carbs", which quickly evolved to "let me rebuild the carbs", which then evolved to "let me replace all those old fuel, vacuum and cooling hoses ... and let's get the radiator and block flushed ... and let's get the AC operational ... and ... and ... "

    Ivan
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  19. 71Satisfaction

    71Satisfaction Formula 3

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    Yep, that's exactly how it goes - with the possible exception that I knew my scope of work when I bought it - but therein lies the truth: You can't restore one isolated item without everything else suddenly looking filthy..

    Today I got the oil hoses all disconnected in preparation for removing the oil reservoir. The front QP void below the oil reservoir has leaves and debris stuck in it and I want to clean there, and refresh the wiper motor.. But the oil reservoir is bigger (front-to-rear) than I thought - especially the hold-down tabs. You wouldn't think it when looking at it in place... but there just isn't enough room to get it out!! No matter how I twisted, turned or cursed. The hold-down tabs catch. I'm cutting the welds off the LHM accumulator bracket to remove it. I'll drill for bolts instead. !!

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  20. Mexico074

    Mexico074 Formula 3

    Aug 14, 2008
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    That's how it always is !! You start out with a specific task in mind.. Then it evolves such
    that - well if I'm doing this, I really should do that.. And if I am doing that, this really should
    be done here because I now have access.. And since I now have access, I really should.. etc...
    I always call this scope creep!

    Mike
     
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  21. thecarnut

    thecarnut F1 Rookie
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    True, but it is very important not to let the scope creep get out of hand. I am committed to get this Khamsin back on the road by March, if not much sooner. I know that bad things happen to cars that sit.
    For example, I also need to do the bumper conversion. Currently the USA front bumper is off since that was the only way to gain access to the two bolts that hold the radiator. I much rather reinstall the USA bumper and get the car on the road than let it sit much longer until the conversion is done.
    I know that for some cars a "driving restoration" is not possible, but when possible, I think that it is best to enjoy a car while making it better.

    Ivan
     
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  22. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 World Champ
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    Very good point, too many with any and all kinds of classic cars let things get out of control, have no concept of management. Driving restoration was always my favorite way because the nightmare is what too many, whatever the type of car end up with: a stalled project.

    By having a precise deliberate plan you stay in control...as much as unexpected surprises allow. But unless you are launching into a no expenses spared full restoration you HAVE to have a line in the sand. Too many also time it wrong; now for those in the northern hemisphere is the time to get busy so you don't miss spring and summer. Specially with engine rebuilds or paint jobs I have seen so many lose an entire summer because of poor planning...it does not have to happen, it needs to be managed, by planning ahead strategically.
     
  23. red27

    red27 Formula Junior

    Sep 7, 2010
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    London UK
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    Mark Oliver
    Hello all. Just for documentation, K #333, the ex Brunei modified car was a no-sale at the Historics auction in Ascot UK just now. bidding went to £65k. IMHO the vendor should have snatched the money and run into the far distance.....the whole auction was littered with items not reaching reserve.

    Best wishes.
    Mark.
     
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  24. Nembo1777

    Nembo1777 F1 World Champ
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    Thanks Mark, pretty much what I expected.

    Car needs a rescuer, there are engines and transmissions available, it was born automatic but one might as well go all the way.
     
  25. boralogist

    boralogist Formula Junior

    Jun 21, 2005
    998
    Respectfully disagree.
    Took 14 hours---we finished at 3.15 am last night.
    Majority of time was spent designing/welding the necessary adapter brackets conforming to 1 mm error tolerance.
    The front bumper only order---was just that---no brackets.

    Make sure you order them separately --- you will be done in 5-6 hours at most!

    Well worth the hassle:
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