Stereo speaker wiring?

Are you referring to the dash tweeters by the air vents? Not so much speakers as they are tweeters. My opinion is to not use them and use co-ax speakers in the doors. Unless your running some cross overs or have a head unit that is super flexible, the one you showed is not, I would not use them and use coax speakers in the doors.

But yes you can do that.

 

Super simple response is crossovers are designed to allow or deny frequencies. Tweeters are bright and if you wire the stereo to the tweeters they will
A) blast you in the face and pop and make other noises due to feeding frequencies they cant handle
B) will break shortly after due to feeding frequencies they cant handle

Other discussion on component speakers and phase issues with tweeters too far from the driver with out delay processing is a separate thing, in your case your treating tweeters like speakers, they are not is the issue.

 

The OEM dash tweeters work in unison with their respective door speakers. There is actually a simple cross-over at each tweeter - a capacitor.

You can wire the tweeters as front and the door mid-bass speakers as rear and this will give you the opportunity to balance the highs (treble) to mid-bass. But you already have this via the radio's "treble" and "bass" controls so not much point in doing it.

 

if you do it the way your saying yes, you will find turning the tweeters down or fading them down will both work and be needed. It will work for now just to hook it up, lousy solution but better than no radio I'd wager.

The big issue is full frequency will go to the tweeters 20-20K hertz where the tweeters can inly play 4K and up, running lower frequency onto them will kill them.
Hook it is as you say 4 channel and when it fails or you really get sick of the sound revisit later as you say.

Be sure you get the polarity right on all 4 speakers.

 

What goes to the tweeters is determined by their high-pass capacitors, not buy whether they are connected to one channel (being parallel with the mid-bass) or whether they are "alone" on a separate channel. Whatever the amplifier channel is trying to send to them, only the highs (say 4k and above, as determined by the capacitor) will reach the speakers. Of course, a bit more of mid-bass will reach the capacitors as it will not be "eaten" by the mid-bass speakers but this will not be an issue, unless you put max output to the "front" channels and max volume. But you can also blow the tweeters connected in parallel to the mid-bass ones if you just send too much volume.

Wiring the tweeters to separate channels will enable even level control of their entire frequency range. The usual "Trebble" control attenuates (and increases) more the upper part of the tweeter's frequency range and less its lower part.

 

Understood yes assuming there is a cap wired in. I did not see one or notice it on the parts when I did mine. Are you saying there is a capacitor in the wiring? Unless there is its full frequency to the tweeters regardless of channel its wired to or hung off the door speakers in parallel or series. I want able to find caps one on mine, but maybe its there somewhere?

Actually I unplugged mine.... Not using them at all, maybe its on the back of the tweeter itself?

 

The high-pass caps are at the back of the tweeters. On car tweeters, these caps are their integral part unless there is i separate cross-over block provided. They are wired in series with the tweeter's "+" terminal and the positive wire from the amp connects to the cap, not directly to the tweeter (HPF - High Pass Filter, the capacitor).

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Examples of caps on tweeters:

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Makes sense I never looked at mine and I've never purchased tweeters with caps they have always been seperates for use in components with external crossovers passive or active whether car or home, wavecor, peerless, hart etc. Only ones I ever noticed we're imbedded in coax speakers like JL ones I have in now.

Good luck OP just be wary of best buy installers.


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By the way, you'll love the head unit! I installed one several years back and it's one of my favorite upgrades. I also got some Focal speakers for the doors. Be sure to purchase the Becker connector for the 355... it plugs into your wiring harness and then directly into the unit. Makes it really easy to switch back to the Sony if you want to. The navigation doesn't work that well. I wouldn't bother with getting the software and CF memory chip. There is a small $25 unit that plugs in the back for a wireless Bluetooth connection to your iPhone music; I highly recommend that!

BTW, I have a spare Becker Cascade in great condition if anyone else wants one. Was saving in case I decide to get a 308, but am probably not going to get one anytime soon.

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I don't know if the WSM wiring diagrams are correct, but the splices are at the tweeters. Two wires going to the tweeter and two going away from the tweeters to the door connectors.

 

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Sounds like a lot of work pulling the dash apart. You may be able to get to one side by removing the instrument binnacle. It's either that or cutting into wiring somewhere (or repinning door connectors).

 

I do not know how it is on the 355-s but on the 348 does not look too difficult - remove the side vents and the instrument cluster and try to reach the radio location with a draw-in wire (thin s/s wire). It should be easy on the side where the instrument cluster is removed and could be doable pass the glove box. If not, remove the glove box as well.

 

Hence, just run coax in the doors. Easier and sounds better. Incidentally my sony head has decent signal processing with delay so the highs sound as if they are in front of you.

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It's actually not too bad.

You can access the tweeters by pulling the vents out.
The door speakers are harder, but those wires should already be there.

 

The only challenge with the dash vents is the vent mounting tabs tend to snap off especially if you've never done it. Mine were all broken from previous what not. One vent only had 1 of 4 tabs left it was just pushed in. Took me months al lots of money to track down new one with tabs and get them de-stickied. Just don't want you to wonder why no one warned you of this "danger" is all. Good luck.

 

keep the crossover!

MB quart used to be very good back in the day. They along with Polk and other were sold to Chinese forms and these days are considered mediocre. Honestly in a 355 without an amp its no issue as it is. Just leave them, and the tweeters had external crossovers as I suspect they should, never seen a decent component speaker system with caps on the tweeters. Its considered low brow.

Don't monkey with in-lining wiring them you may wind up with resistance issues

• 2 channels to the tweeters (Fronts)
• 2 channels to the doors (Rears)
• Control with fade, and you will be doing that to turn down the fronts.