I totally agree on the bumper conversion! Perhaps I was not clear in my previous comment. The front USA bumper on my car is currently off to gain access to the radiator bolts. My comment was that my plan is to reinstall the front bumper (which is held by two bolts and just takes minutes to install) and sort out the car mechanically before starting on the bumper conversion. I already ordered the new bumpers .... I just do not like to leave a car sitting for too long. Your car looks very nice! Ivan
What type of headers did it have before ... thermal reactors? I would be curious of your impressions once you drive the car. Is there a significant improvement on performance and sound? Ivan
Yes. Thermal reactors: Image Unavailable, Please Login Yesss to both sound (listen to above sound clip) and performance. First thing you notice after install is the idle jumping to 1400 rpm from 1000, not having touched anything else.
The US market only thermal reactors strangle the engine significantly, cause overheating particularly during high/top speed runs. Getting rid of them is, almost, like offering sight to a blind person or more accurately curing an asthmatic. Oh and yes the engine sounds much better without them
I see you went with the Quicksilver manifolds versus the ones offered by MIE. Price seems about the same. Any particular reason? Stainless manifolds sometimes sound a bit "tingy" but perhaps that is not the case with the Quicksilver manifolds Ivan
Yes. Always liked the Quicksilver sound in different applications. One caveat, the MIE manifolds are a little longer and may not need an extension piece to connect to the exhaust system. With QS we had to machine an approx 20 cm SS pipe to make it work.
One thing about the MIE headers is they seem to hang lower than the thermal reactors and the factory headers
Borologist. Do you mean the port and starboard mufflers at the rear bumper? Does this mean you use straight pipes to the exhaust pipes after the resonator? Do you then maintain two exist ends for each side.. or go down to a single on each side of the car? ....Or were you joking, for the sound effects side of fun? Just curious. Thank you R
Interesting... Do you have a picture of the finished rear end? Or even the underside... Wondering how that affects the look? I presume it makes things louder to some degree as well?
When I bought my Indy, the big single rear muffler was gone, deleted by the previous owner. Instead the car has two "hand made" end pipes going out from the resonator. The sound seems a bit louder compared to what I heard in Bora's and other Indy's but not that much, maybe a bit more throaty. Love it. Image Unavailable, Please Login
According to a company in Amersfoort (the Netherlands) this is the “4.9 V8 motor of a Maserati Khamsin”. There is a number on one of the photos, I think it is AM115/10/49*0136. Khamsin #136 was painted gold (in 2015 or 2017?) I believe at DN Restorations, another company in the Netherlands. The photos are from 2018 and all 5 of them are on this Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pg/motorenrevisieamersfoort/photos/?ref=page_internal Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hello AMLC That is the ex-Venezuela car, I had in my notes that #136 had a Ghibli engine since 1968 with number AM115 392 but maybe the original engine has surfaced/was still with the car and was reconditioned?
I guess I can always see what it is like without it and then decide.. I could always add them back in with minimal welding cost lost up front of I change my mind.... I would make a rear look the same (token fascias for the missing mufflers). .. that will be a 2022 decision...... Thank you!
Sound is a major plus---both on my K and Bora---similarly treated. Going through huge storm front---will get you a rear pic in a day or two when weather calms down! BTW---rear aesthetics is another advantage with no unsightly hanging rusty boxes to worry about! IMHO---No down side here!
Hello Roger, yes the ex-Venezuela car, Marc’s post #5236 (page 210) has this information about the numbers: “Having seen the photos the chassis plate has AM115 392 stamped on it...but the engine number, on the bell housing, finishes with 136: AM115/10/49*0136. Guess what: according to Fabio Collina the factory records state that there was only one K actually delivered new in Venezuela: yes AM120 136. So ti is likely that this is in fact AM120136.” Here are some photos by the way of what I believe is the body of #136: https://www.vocor.nl/auto-en-body-movers/1734-body-mover-universeel.html
Yes that is it, I saw the body at DN near Utrecht in December 2016. After DN had difficulties it was moved to another workshop for completion. Owner of the car is a Swiss German enthusiast.
Looking up the fotos on face book there are coming some issues at least to my mind. The goal while machining and honing the Maserati block is to simulate the peripheral-conditions as best as possible, the block is - due to the inherent design of missing the lower block skirt - more sensitive to that than other constructions. The recommended interference of block ./. liners demands heating the block. The pictures show installing the liners with a soft-hammer and wo. gloves, which leads me to the assumption, that no heat has been applied. Using the a head gasket as well as the org. head bolts is also very recommended while machining / honing the block. The pictures show the block prepared for honing but wo. gaskets and wo. org. bolts. This causes definetely other tensions and Geometries than in situ. I don't want to say that this engine will not run but I assume there are missing 2-3 points out of 10. Best regards, Marek
Well I actually looked more at the engine number on these photos than anything else. But because I think it’s interesting what you mentioned I tried to find some basic info about torque plates and found this: https://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced Engine Tuning/Torque_Plate_Basics.html And about closed vs open deck I found an article on drive tribe. I believe the classic Maserati V8 is an open deck design? From the first article I understand that not every engine builder thinks it is necessary to use a torque plate for an open deck design. Let alone that you should do all the things you mention like heating the block to get a good result. But of course I know that I’m absolutely no expert after reading some Internet articles.
Image Unavailable, Please Login PS--- Also the Nardi in place---adapter machined from a billet of aluminum: Image Unavailable, Please Login