Question on removing/installing headers

Now that I have a new set of Tubi headers to install I have a question for those who have done this previously. I'm sure I can do this but to avoid any pit falls, would someone be able to confirm just what other parts have to be removed. Obviously, cats, Y pipe, fender liners, various hoses, and the oil tank. Anything else? Any threads on this? I searched but could not anything.

 

You will need a variety of 13mm wrenches/sockets, breaker bars, etc. The job is far easier if you have a flex-head socket wrench. I installed Tubi headers in my 98-F1 a few months ago. The driver-side was extremely difficult to move into place due to clearance of the engine cradle. Passenger-side was much easier but very difficult to get the upper nuts started on the header as the clearance in that area on Tubi's is less than the factory headers. Finally your attachment nuts are probably heavily corroded so you may want to purchase some replacements (copper is recommended by some) beforehand. Whatever you do, begin the process by spraying the bolts/nuts with PB Blaster or similar and let them soak for a couple of hours. That makes the removal process maybe 50% easier.

 

John when you do this please post pics and tips....engine-in header replacement is probably in my future...

 

I was planing to do so. But just the tough stuff. If you can't get the cats and Y pipe off with out help, you need help! But it's going to be a while. Like March or April. I might do the driver's side first. My car is a 95 and I don;t see any reason it would be harder than the passengers side as Ken stated. Something different with a 5.2 car, maybe.

 

I just performed this job on a 95 Berlinetta. You'll want to remove the fans (easy). I disconnected one of the oil lines from the oil tank but was able to leave the oil tank in the car. The Y-pipe connections on the 95 are unique but I also struggled getting the headers past the engine cradle - frankly on both sides. That said, it is doable - just takes patience. It goes without saying, but you'll want to use new exhaust manifold gaskets. I'd also recommend picking up a few totally flat box end wrenches in different lengths and a wobble extension for the header nuts in addition to the variety of other tools referenced in Ken's post above. Some of the nuts are a major PITA to access but again it's doable with the right assortment of tools and patience.

 

Thanks guys.

All exhaust parts but headers are already off the car. So at this point it's just removing the old headers I'm going to have to do. Heads were rebuild in 2013 so I'm hoping the header nuts won't be too much trouble.

Gaskets? I was just going to use high temp Permatex. LOL!!!!!!

I planned to remove the fans just to clean things up. Will probably mount a piece of 1/4" plywood in their place while working to protect them.

Tools aren't an issue.

 

I don't need help

Looking forward.

 

For an easier install, definitely have angle / Elbow sockets and plan on removing oil tank for more difficult passenger side.

Robb

 

Did this job about a year ago out of car (so a bit easier).
Same recommendations as everyone else mostly.

Used a 13mm socket attached to a swivel head for the lower bolts and the ones around the sides.
The uppers require a wrench due to the geometry of the heat shield and the emissions stuff. SOEXM13 from snap on got me through those, An offset closed 13mm wrench might have been easier, but the tool I listed worked.
And yes, replace the gaskets and bolts.

Another thing I struggled with was getting the Tubi headers snaked around the engine cradle. I had to remove the rear (towards back of car) engine mounts and lift the rear of the engine an inch to get them in.

Good luck, it's not an easy job.

 

Yeah I am also in the habit of adding a hi-temp RTV to both the outside and inside of the factory metal gasket (part # 151064). Last time I used the Permatex Ultra Copper. It probably makes it harder to R&R the headers later but I expect the Tubis to outlive the car anyway.

 

Hi John
You will likely do this anyway but when I did mine many many years ago I also re threaded the studs and was very glad I did as once I got the headers in there it was nice to be able to spin the nuts down by hand.
It’s been too long for me to give much advice but for me I spaced it out over a few days due to the angles of some of the nuts. My fingers were sore for a few days after.
I did not remove the fans and of course you know I have a 99.
You won’t have any problems as it was mostly obvious.

you will enjoy the Tubi’s and good luck

 

Hi Grant,

I was out in the garage yesterday looking at the it. I'm doing a lot of little things on the car to clean it up between now and spring. I plan on removing the fans just so I can give then a good washing down. Pretty much everything is off the car but the headers now: bumper, muffler, Y pipe, cats, fender liners, all off. I put a wrench to a couple of the nuts on the driver's side and they were no problem. My heads were rebuilt as part of the purchase back in 2013 so nothing seems rusted frozen. Makes no difference engine in or out for getting the nuts off. Looks straight forward. Saturday looks to be in the 50's around here so maybe get the driver's side done.

 

I was going to do that but it just doesn't look like there is much to take picture of.

 

I have this job coming up, the 2.7 Tubi headers purchased and ready to go on. This post was fortunate in its timing.

Out of interest, is there likely to be any noticeable difference in sound/performance from the standard headers which are currently on the car?

 

The best advice I would give is to either clean up the studs or even better buy new ones along with new nuts. As said above, you will be thankful when you can wind them all the way on with your fingers.
Also as said already, remove the fans and take of the oil pipes. Even undo the oil tank and move it backwards a little. The subframe tube can be a pain to get around.
If the OP wants any specific pictures, pm me and I will email them to you.

 

Cleaning the studs can also be accomplished by manually starting a die (from a tap/die set) with your hand and then running it slowly forward and backward with an electric drill. I also used a bit of cutting compound to keep the die sharp. This certainly makes it easier to reinstall the nuts once the new headers are in place.

 

Subscribed...looking forward to the photos and details. Thanks

 

It's kind of warm today in Connecticut so I thought I'd take a shot at loosening the bolts on the driver's side header. It didn't required any special tool.Here are the tools I used. A 1/4" drive ratchet with 12MM 6 point socket, a short section of 1/2" ID PVC pipe which I slipped over the ratchet to get a longer moment arm because I'm a weak old fart, a 3/8" swivel head ratchet with 12mm 6 point socket (the swivel head was not necessary), 3" and 6" extensions x 3/8 drive, a 3/8" drive universal joint and a 12mm box wrench.

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Before starting I had already removed the Y pipe. The cats are still on but the bolts are loose.

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Then the fender liners were removed.

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The top bolts were loosened using the 1/4" ratchet after disconnecting the air injection pipe.

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The lower nuts were a little more of a pain. The box wrench was sufficient to loosen the rear most nut. The front lower nut was accessible from above and I used the 1/4" ratchet and PVC extension. For the 3rd lower nut the 3" extension as 3/8" ratchet were used from below. The most awkward one was the 2nd lower nut because of the presence of the motor mount. For that I used the 3" extension, then the universal joint, then the 6" extension and the 3/8" ratchet. positioned just above the frame rail. All all it took about 10-15 minutes to loosen the 8 nuts. I presume that once the oil tank is moved out of the way the passenger side will be similar. Waiting for new gaskets to arrive before I actually remove the old header, but I can't see it being an issue.

 

Doesn't look too bad. Certainly not as bad an engine-in job as, say, changing the upper #6 spark plug on a 993. I think that job is how they got the terrorists to talk at Gitmo.

 

So that's the easiest side done.
For the other side as well as moving the oil tank back a little. I found more room by removing both oil pipe and oil cooler just for that little more room to angle the manifold back In.
However that's just what I did. I am sure there will be posters who have done it with all the wheel arches in and without the wheels removed

 

My only real concern going into this was removing the header nuts due to access. But that's not an issue. Everything else is just preparation. Moving or removing the oil tank, etc, is like removing the under trays when you change the oil. Just stuff that has to be done to get to the job.

Unless something comes up I don't think I'll be posting any more pictures.

 

Kudos to Daniel at Ricambi. I order the exhaust gaskets yesterday morning. They arrived FedEx 1/2 an hour ago. I guess I'll be in the garage tomorrow putting the driver's side header on.

 

Speaking from experience, the job is way harder and more tedious than changing 993 spark plugs. I'm sure he'll be fine - but he's just getting started and hasn't gotten to the fun stuff yet

 

Here is another removal process from the UK and contributed by Terry, no need to remove oil tank as it will not help as the oil radiator is the problem.

My method for removing the RH header. I did not remove the oil tank but did the following:

Remove offside wheel and wheel well lining.
Remove RH lower diffuser.
Remove air filter boxes.
Remove upper cat
Remove lower cat on RH side
Remove RH drive shaft heat shield
Remove lower oil hose between oil rad and the oil tank
Remove oil rad fan

The lower header attachment nuts are accessed from below the car. Just the one upper forward nut is tricky being behind the oil tank but just accessible enough. Loosen then wind off with the tip of fingers, if this nut was stubborn i.e. need removing with a wrench, then it would take longer.

The header will then just come out through the wheel arch but only with minimum clearance (perhaps a mm). Removing the tank would not have given any more access because the oil rad is the limiting component. If more space is required, removing the oil rad would be better. I can only think others have removed the oil tank to get at the one difficult nut at the front top of the flange then remove the header through the engine lid. Doing it this way may negate the necessity of removing the upper cat and the RH lower cat. I like to work sitting on a stool in the wheel well rather than bent double reaching over the side of the car into the engine bay.

As you can see in this picture, space is very tight at both ends of the header.
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I’m pretty sure Terry has a 95