812 lowering on factory suspension

Find pictures on the internet of what personally appeals to you and reverse engineer to find your answer. That's what I would do...Cheers

 

More than 10-12 mm and you start to get a noticable harder ride, and ground clearance may become an issue. This of course really deoends on where and how you drive, but for a regular use car, I'd keep it moderate. Visually a little can go a long way. I take it we are talking about a Superfast? The SF is already a pretty firm ride, so lowering will tighten things up further for sure. Remember to have your spacers or new wheels installed when the car is alligned after the adjustment. Also if you add more track in the rear than you add in the front, have your shop add 0.3-0.5 degrees of negative camber to the front to compensate for the added understeer the added track will cause. No fun in having a sportscar that understeer.

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I didn't lower mine when I had it, but a buddy had his down 12 mm front and 15 mm rear. Raised it back up as it got too hard. It wasn't banging around, but it definitely made it even more firm. It's been a while now, but I'd go as far as saying it became firmer than my Pista.

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Before doing anything with lowering, make sure the height is at factory height. You might have a car that is too high from the factory as this is not uncommon. The numbers I quote is based on a car that was first set to the proper factory height. It is impossible to say how it will affect the car if the basis for comparison is not the same. If your car turns out to be too high, try factory settings first. It might be enough or close.

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I'm aware that you don't change the preload. What stiffen up the suspension is the added preload on the sway bars. I have lowered my Pista and 488, a friend has lowered his Lusso. All without exception goes firmer. Like I said, I know you don't change the spring preload, but you change things in the sway bar geometry and preload.

But try it, to each their own.

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I would wager the sway bars are at "neutral" or without preload if the vehicle is flat or straight line driving or pretty damn close to it. I have played with a lot of car suspensions. The firmer ride would likely be a result of a reduction in suspension compression cycle with the same spring rate while adding a small in distance, but large by a percentage, of additional droop travel. Most suspensions now have isolators on the shaft of each shock cylinder that prevents bottoming out the casing, which the lower ride high would allow you to compress to quicker (and more harshly). Lastly, the lower ride height will change the sensation of ride quality due to a myriad of factors like a lower center of gravity, eccentric compression cycle changes of the upper and lower control arms, and just the sheer reduction in shock travel and their ability to absorb energy through a smaller range of motion.

All that said, lower looks better. Mine will go lower.

 

Sorry just saw this. I went with Novitec springs and lowered 12.5 mm all around and (a 4 corner) alignment. Stance is great, ride is for all intensive purposes unchanged- I have Daytona race seats and really haven’t felt any noticeable change.

Some FYIs: I do not have the front end lift and don’t need it and did not have it on my F12 (I live out in the country). I can drive my car up on a trailer with just a 1” matt on the very end (last 6”) of the ramp but cannot open the driver door any more in the trailer, which has a side hatch. Under heavy braking the front wheels will rub through the fender- I was told that the fender liners become a consumable for tracking it.

I haven’t put spacers on it because I track mine more than I drive it on the street but the more I see them the more I’m tempted to.


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There are also some wires/lines just behind the fender liner. Make sure not to "consume" these as well.