Good afternoon all, "That bolt" controls the idle speed when worm. Don't try to adjust idle when cold, as it's controlled by the AAV(Auxiliary Air Valve). Hope this helps! John
Hi all, I'm back home for a day and just running through the procedure for checking the CIS fuel pressures. My testing kit will hopefully show up in the morning. From looking at another thread, I have found where to intersect the line between fuel distributor and warm up valve. But I have an extra fuel line(with frequency valve)linked to the same connection where I am to intersect. (See pic) Do I include both lines for this test? Thanks in advance. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for that Jeka. I can confirm that my engine doesn't have a bypass valve (VLV). Looks like my engine never did. (See pic) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Ferrari chatters, time for an update on this problem of "engine holding revs" So since I've been back from holiday I've now managed to test a few things.. We know that the o2 censer was not present on my Lumbda k jetronik. Also I've found the frequency valve not working/has no power to it. I'm guessing the Lumbda had been disconnected and re-tuned before I bought the car (4 yrs ago). So now is the time to actually get all that Lumbda system off the car so their is no more confusion of what's working/connected and not. Be nice to see it original euro spec again. I have done some fuel pressure tests. (awesome new tool) see pic. system pressure (cold) 76psi cold control pressure 16psi warm control pressure 52psi (engine on) residual pressure 48psi - 40psi(20mins) I'm a little lost as to what the correct pressures are meant to be, could someone help me with this please? Once I can confirm my pressures are in spec, I can maybe move on to some adjustments of the fuel air mix? its definitely running rich. Any help is much appreciated. Cheers Dean
See pages D39-D40 of the Mondial 8/QV WSM 281/83 for the cold and warm control pressure specs for the WURs used on the euro and US K-Jet without Lambda engines. You can get a copy here if you don't have one: https://www.dropbox.com/s/z99soo68ny9n2qa/Mondial8qv_workshop_281-83.pdf?dl=0 If you have a different WUR on it, please post the Bosch PN.
Brilliant, thanks Steve. I didn't realize their was such a detailed WSM, mine is very basic. What I have found is my WUR is not listed in the manual, its a 0438 140 108 (see pic) I get 1.2bar/18psi room@22deg/c (cold control pressure) All other pressures are in spec. Dean
No, it's not, but I believe that is the correct WUR for an early euro version QV engine. A little internet searching shows: Bosch 0438140108 = Ferrari 118585 and Bosch 0438140116 = Ferrari 119825 Both the euro 308QV SPC and euro MondialQV SPC show that the 118585 WUR was used up to engine SN 727, and then it got changed to Ferrari 119825. I can't believe they are hugely different spec-wise, but have no exact information for 0438140108. That cold result at 22 deg C sure seems a little lowish to me (i.e., being more rich than desired when cold compared to the others), but, if the warm control pressure is OKish, don't see any harm in tweaking it up when warm (and then only worrying more about things if cold-running is poor). Hopefully, someone else has the cold pressure chart for 0438140108, and can post it. (I was hoping early euro TR also used 0438140108, and the chart would be in the TR WSM, but it also uses 0438140116, and the 400i uses 0438140033 so no documentation help there either).
Thanks for that Steve, yes I thought it was a bit low on cold pressure also, but like you say, this can be dealt with later if needed. Just curious, what's with the country stamp on the WUR? mine says france, and ive seen Germany on another. Could this possibly be a country/region its calibrated for... Will do some "tweeking" and report back. Cheers.
Think that marking might be more related to the country of manufacture (as "euro" 308QV were shipped to many different countries, and the euro 308QV SPC doesn't show any WUR difference by country).
Hi, "Could this possibly be a country/region its calibrated for" -> no It is a Bosch assy. Same assy with different adjustment -> different Bosch-Part-No. Paul
After looking at some other threads, i see the cold control pressure is adjusted by the pin on the WUR. push pin further down and get a lower cold control pressure. If you look at my last photo, the pin on my WUR is very far down, so this could be my cold control problem. I'm not going to touch it yet,( I want to ,but lets get things running better first) My question today is, if I adjust the pin for cold control pressure, will it have any effect on my warm control pressure? Thanks in advance.
Normaly no effect on warm control pressure. WUR gets warm by his bi-metal and the heat of the engine. That pin you say looks normal to me. There is a way to put a bolt so you can adjust it with the wur in the car. Image Unavailable, Please Login I see on your last picture that the vacuum hose on top of the WUR is not connected....this hose goes to the throttle body
Update for the 308 holding revs. Well thanks to all for the help and great advice through this problem , (especially Steve). I have been able to get the car revving now without holding. After getting all the info on things to check on the engine, It feels so much better knowing that everything is in spec and operating correctly (without the half installed Lumbda also). I managed to get a threaded bolt into the WUR pin and wind it out to get the cold control within wsm specs. ,(thanks unissenguido) I also adjusted the airflow sensor plate, as it was slightly too high in the rest position. Basically I think all the thorough cleaning of components and replacing the injectors required a re adjustment of the fuel mixture. Once we adjusted the mix ,the car was idling and revving great. I took it for a spin and it drove great. Car is booked in to get a proper air/fuel mixture test done, just to make sure I have it correct. Thanks again everyone. Dean NZ
