Engine Out Service (Jumping into the Deep End of the Pool)

Very clean bay.. Nice.

It's fairly straight forward to remove the engine.
Disconnect A/C compressor and pull aside, no need to remove but if you have access to someone who can capture the refrigerant and recharge it, that does make it easier. I'll remove the fuel tank vent lines and canister that's in the way to pull the A/C compressor out of the way.

Remove axles entirely, having them flop about is more of a PITA then just taking them out.

Remove the coolant overflow tank and oil cooler as well. Ignition coils can also be removed to get clearance.

I pull the lump with the clutch and drop gears fully assembled. Others elect to remove them first, you don't have to.

Remove CIS distributor body and filter assy. Disconnect lines at distributor or preferably at injectors and keep attached to distributor body.

You'll need a load leveler or a way to rotate the engine so that bank 1-4 points down as it rises up. Some use lift straps on bank 5-8 and pull from there only. Headers are fiddly, some will come out before the engine is removed others not, but they do need to be removed at some point on the way out.

Isolation dampers.. aka mounts. I remove the two bolts and leave the bottom half attached, however you'll need to loosen the large bolt on the bottom half to provide 'play' so that when the engine is pulled and tipped up it doesn't catch on the bolts that mount the bracket to the transmission. Reason I don't just remove the large bolt leaving the mount together is that they won't fit coming out and then you're left trying to remove the mount from the engine mid-lift... Precarious to say the least.

Protect the rear glass! Cardboard and a careful eye.. and extra eye spotter really helps. Pulling and installing the engine has it kissing close to the glass... Something to keep an eye on.

Take your time, take notes and you'll be fine. I've lost track of how many of these I've pulled and put in. It's not overly tricky but tedious.

Oh remove the oil dipstick tube. Disconnect the shifter shaft at the transmission, there's a shouldered bolt holding it together, don't futz with the jamb nut adjustment section, unless you want to play the gear shifter adjustment game.... tip.. you don't. Only when needed.
Clutch cable is straight forward when you look at it, cleavas pin and done.

There's probably lots more but that's the bulk of it. If you can... Block off the coolant openings, tipping always gets more to come out.. Fun times.

If you plan on pulling the engine apart... There's more there for tips and things to look for.

You'll do fine... It's not that hard.

Oh and it's a pain but removing the exhaust really helps, muffler and all.

First time out of the gate... Expect a couple days. Take notes... Seriously... Take notes and pics for when it has to go back together.

 

Axels are the same CV joint as porsche, so should be familiar ground. 8 or 9mm Allen wrench needed, use the 3/8" socket version. Don't recall if porsche uses the captive flange but the flange captures the castle nut, no box wrench needed.

I unbolt the diff side first, then the wheel side. Going to be greasy but not too bad. Also great time to replace boots, regrease etc... Even replace the CV if you want.

Hmmmmm... If the engine isn't leaking coolant or any other gasket issues... Leave it alone. Head gasket jobs open a can of worms, no need to go down that road unless needed.

You have a QV, so unless you can track down a factory head stud nut wrench tool... Don't attempt. The nuts are not direct access, they sit under the cam journal tray right between the valve buckets... Real PITA location.

After pulling the lump I place it on a rolling hydraulic table.. Kinda like those ones for motorcycles. The lump weighs around 500lbs. Makes working on the setup real easy, raise for standing... Lower for sitting... Etc...

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Above all else remember this:

The engine hoist is a tool designed to test the tensile strength of whatever it is that you forgot to disconnect.

 

As a young lad I was helping out ol dad with the nomad... Shifter linkage will support a Chevy for a short bit....

 

99% of us do not use those sampling tubes for anything. Simply remove and cap them off, or weld them shut.

 

I found a very short 6-point 13mm (1/4" drive) socket and a selection of u-joints and extensions worked for most of the exhaust nuts. I ground the sides of a cheap 13mm open spanner (wrench) for a couple of them. I bought a 1/4" electric ratchet to speed things.

 

The nuts are copper thankfully (also why 6-points are better than 12)

 

Yes ditch the sampling tubes, no purpose for them on an injected engine and they can lead to problems when they crack or break off. I even went as far as to remove the header shrouds since their only real purpose is to marginally shorten the time for the Cats to get up to temp from a cold start, Once they are off you will have far better access to the header nuts when you put it back together. But to get the header off the 1-5 head I had to wait until the engine was on the sling and lifted partially out, it was probably one of if not THE most PITA aspects of the whole ordeal.

If you decide to cut the shrouds off well, that ain't exactly a picnic either. It'll cost you a whole Saturday.

 

Yes 5-8 header (typo)

If you can get all of the sampler tube B-nuts out then you can just plug the bosses but if they break off and you are faced with having to drill out and re-tap well, you may as well just weld them all closed or even have the bosses cut off and the holes welded for a cleaner look.

I had my headers ceramic coated. I have no data as to how effective that is but it's been a year and about 6,000 miles now and I have not seen or experienced any problem with heat. As I said the purpose of those shrouds is to retain heat for the catalytic converters, not to protect anything external. If you decide to cut them off you can ditch the idea of somehow preserving them for reinstallation at some future time. You will have to get brutally mediaeval with them - tin snips and pry bars seemed to work best and stay away from the seams because they are double layered there and you'll never get through. I wouldn't use a cutoff wheel as you could damage the pipes underneath.

 

I don't pull engine inside the garage. I do it outside in the driveway and then I push the car back inside.

 

Job went really smooth today overall. Thanks for the burgers, socially distanced lunch and great camaraderie. It plucked clean like your awesome group here suggested.

I'm with folks here after reading the head gasket suggestions. Iirc it's the same tool on some other heads but not worth it. I've got some QV shims in storage and it's beginning to look a lot like we'll have twins running around town soon. Cheers, great work prepping for today. Not a bolt or wire misplaced.


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The head bolt tool is nothing special, a cut off 17 mm offset box end welded to a half inch ratchet extension. It's better off just making your own if you have or know a welder. The one they are selling uses a cheap 17 mm wrench and it will bend. AMHIK

 

I've bought and used and broken all the various welded ones, even had a welder try and fix one and make one... Busted...
Tracked down the factory one... Going strong yrs later..

 

Use a good quality wrench and it won't bend. If it's properly welded I don't see how you could possibly break it, if it breaks at the weld then the weld was not done correctly.

 

328 tq to degrees are a *****...

First tool was from one of the ferrari suppliers, welded version. Second tool I had the machinest fab up and my welder buddy.. Who welds underwater on subs... Tempered etc... Guy knows how to weld. Also broke after I think 3 engines...

Had gt car parts source a factory one after that... Zero problems so far.

 

The tool is av1393
Though mine looks like this... Image Unavailable, Please Login