Cambelt Tensioner Bearing

Use the old tbelt tensioner bearings.
As for the other bearings, if they funny noise at all, replace. Hard to tell whether the noise is funny, or not.

 

Also check the cam drive pulley bearings.

 

How do you actually check the cam drive pulley bearings?

 

I would totally re-use the tensioner bearings especially the Hill Engineering ones. As for the water pump and alternator, the alternator should spin perfectly smoothly and anything less requires a re-build. The water pump can be a little trickier because the seal can make it turn a little less than smooth while still being perfectly ok. I would check the water pump for play in and out and up and down along the shaft. If it feels pretty tight and does not leak, leave it alone.

As for the cam drive pulley bearings I do not know of a procedure for checking those other than listening to them with a scope while the engine is running.

 

Imho the cam drive bearings are low cost items. While you're at them just pull the outter bearings. Not sure what year your 328 is but on my 1982 308 they were fairly easy with the draper puller.

 

Yes, outer bearing. Check the seals. If the are leaking replace the bearing.

 

I would not change the Hill bearings unless they do not turn evenly or are oozing grease. Last time I changed timing belts which was several months ago I replaced the SKF cam tensioner bearings that had been in use since 1996 and many miles ago with Hill bearings. You might also check the water pump tensioner bearings. I had my water pump freeze up last summer. Had it rebuilt and while at it I noticed some unevenness in one of the pump's tensioner bearings. Replaced them. I plan on running my Hill cam tensioner bearings for at least 10 years.

 

Since the cam bearings are bathed in oil, would they not last for a very long time, especially if the oil changes are frequent as is usually the case with these cars? If the seal leaks, would not just replacing the seal make sense? Sometimes the original item quality far surpasses new replacements, just wondering who actually has had a cam bearing fail.

 

Inner cam drive bearings are bathed in oil, outer cam bearings are not.

 

The early V8s had both cam drive bearings bathed in the engine oil (which is a lubrication plus), but the design layout wasn't the greatest (the severe "overhung'" geometry put a lot of load on the outer bearing and any runout in the outer bearing gets magnified a lot at the sprocket). Circa 1978, F changed the design to swap the locations of the seal and the outer bearing (so the outer bearing is a sealed bearing lubricated with grease, and you have to remove/destroy the outer bearing just to get to the seal). The early cars have a lot more problem with the outer bearing failing (or the runout at the sprocket getting so extreme as to risk mishandling the belt) so replacing the outer bearing on the early design more frequently is prudent IMO.

 

I replaced the bearings in my v belt tensioner and one thing to note is that the tensioner pulley uses 2 sealed bearings that are pressed in from either side. What you can't see when the bearings are in is that there is a circlip that fits into a groove in the middle of where the bearings are. This circlip acts as a stop for the bearings as they are pressed in. For this reason you just cannot press the pair of bearings 'through' the pulley and they need to be removed one at a time pulling each bearing out.

 

Took a while to find it, but, if you are interested in the geometry difference between the early and late design (and how it affects the load on the bearings), see this old thread (post #12):

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/belt-dilemma.268866/

 

Great info on the cam bearings, thanks.

 

On my 1980 308 there was also a washer between the water pump tensioner bearings.the same thickness as the circlip, I suppose to press the inner races together to keep them stationary. If this is a common washer to your car don't lose it, as far as washers it's a pricey one.

 

As others have said, the Hill tensioner bearings should be good for a lot more miles. The viton seals and better grease don't degrade as quickly at these high temperatures.

To check your cam drive bearings, try moving them upd/down, side to side, in and out. The QVs and 328s have bigger outer bearings than the 2V motors (44OD x 14W vs. 40OD x12W) so they tend to last a lot longer. The early ones were marginal at best.

cheers, derek

 

FWIW I just replaced some Hill's bearings after about 11K miles & 7 years. They seem fine to me but I replaced them because it should be another 3 years at least before the next belt change & by then the bearings would be 10 years old. Given the cost of the things it seemed sensible to just refresh them.

 

I wouldn't bother replacing a Hill bearing any more than I would replace a wheel bearing periodically. If it's smooth, it's ok.

 

sorry to revive this but if bearings even SKF only need to be replaced every other belt change, why does everyone change belts AND bearings every 3 years? I'm at 7 year for belts and they still look good according to mecchanic

 

Who's everyone? 3 years was the thinking at one point quite a while ago, lately it seems consensus is closer to 5 - 7 years for belts and bearings. I did both belts and bearings in 2014 shortly after buying my 84 QV, then just replaced them 2 months ago while I was completing some other work, so a 6 year interval.

If you're at 7 years - it doesn't matter in the slightest what the belts look like, replace them now. Bearings - if Hill bearings, your call. SKF - change them to Hill.

 

No doubt I’m changing this year and bearings to know I have Hill. I still three years and many opt for five but haven’t read many who has gone longer

 

Not really low cost on a 328. Different bearings and a non standard propriatary size.

Very seldom see an issue with them.

 

Hello John,
You spin the bearing with your hand once the belt is off (the aluminum block magnifies the sound). If you notice any noise or play, replace. Keep in mind that these rollers have two thrust bearings inside (one facing in and one facing out), just like a wheel bearing.

John