Any Additives After Sitting for Several Years?

Just use cheap dino oil for a few miles and then replace filters and flush the engine twice with modern oil. Dino oil does not adhere to the metal, so it does stick debris to the engine parts, which is perfect for a gentle cleaning. Modern oil are sticky, which is perfect to reduce engine wear during dry-start.

As far as what oil to use once the engine is clean, that's a never ending debate... I was disappointed by classic motor oil (oil for classic cars) as they do not sustain pressure under high load, so I prefer modern oil. I've personally tried Igol pure Esther Oil and Motul Semi Synthetic (I am French so these are easy to source), these were good, but the pure esther oil was significantly more expensive. I have the feeling that most well known brand do provide good oil nowadays. These brands do provide oil recommendation for our cars, stick with what they say.

Modern oil do already have additives (anti-wear, viscosity improvers, etc...), so you can buy oil without the need to add additives.

Whatever the oil you buy, you should invest in good filters.

My engine was destroyed after a sodium valve failure so I am particularly biased toward stainless valves...

 

You had it serviced and all the fluids are fresh. At this point, driving it is the key. Heat cycles to keep moisture at a minimum. I am sure there are many additives that will claim to do this or that. Modern fuel cleans already, oils do the same. I am sure the shop you used added quality oils. If you have no issues, I say drive it. That will be the best thing you can do for it. It is like coming out of a coma. The rehab part is done, now it is time for physical therapy. Exercise exercize.
Enjoy it.

 

I've just briefly reviewed the owner manual for your car and I just come to understand why you've been asking about additives... In the 1975 owner manual it was recommended to use "10w50 Agip synthetic added with 180cc of Molikote A". Nowadays no need to mess with this thick Molikote grease in order to reach the proper viscosity: you can just buy 20w60 (10w60) oil and call it a day.

Coolant : there is no detailed information regarding coolant in the Dino manual (My Ferrari manuals of that era is more comprehensive). Bear in mind that the best coolant is water (does transfer 10% more heat than glycol), so the more antifreeze in the coolant, the less efficient it will be . As a general rule -35°C coolant will evacuate ~5% less heat than -10°C coolant. Depending on where you live 5% can make a significant difference (or not), so do not use -35°C or -25°C coolant unless required.

As long as you baby the car, the oil pressure and temperature are probably going to remain within reasonable boundaries whatever the oil and coolant. Once you feel more confident and start to drive the car hard, then you should read thoroughly the owner manual and follow factory guidelines "by the book". Back then these manuals were providing detailed and valuable information (even my mechanic reads it!). On top of it it's quite a nice read.

 

+1 -- any special measures to account for a long period of disuse would have needed to be done before spinning, or operating, the engine.

 

Each mechanic has its own way to mitigate this initital startup-wear, pre-lubing the system could be one of these. As long as the car was started there is no way back: whatever damage may have been done during initial startup cannot be reversed afterward, so there is no point in contemplating whether another method would have been more appropriate. By the way assuming absolutely nothing was done (even keeping the old oil), this would not mean premature death of your engine.

If you want to play it safe you can make an early oil change (1000km) and ask for an oil analysis. This will let you know if some abnormal wear is occurring in the engine, or at least give you a reference for the next analysis. I personally would not care as long as the engine feels strong.

Best approach would be to ask your mechanic and agree on the next steps, but as others have said, drive the car! There is no better way to kill most electric gremlins.

 

Removing the spark plugs and cams and fogging the cylinder walls with lubricant before rotating the crankshaft some by hand -- then spin it with the starter to distribute some fresh oil. Then relubricate all the tappet pieces, cam journals, and reinstall the cams and belts. Basically just doing as much assembly pre-lubrication that you would normally do when assembling a new engine.

 

I wanted to throw something out to possible help OP and my curiosity .. so after vehicle has been started and on road .. if you do a oil analysis in oil that was in engine while it was first started and ran a little while and it comes back with no noticable wear does that mean no harm was done to the internals ?

If that comes back pretty clean and car runs well does that mean the sitting for that time had no adverse affects on at least the engine ?

Please share your thoughts

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk

 

The problem is the definition of "no harm". If you get a little more cylinder wall vertical scratching or a little more scarring in the cam journals (it always freaks me out when I look at a used F cam journal ), it isn't going to be instantly catastrophic. Maybe not good for best longevity, but, if it's running well now, no need for any immediate heroic action IMO -- and no reason to not just use it until it does need repair.

 

As it's almost impossible to fully drain the oil, your first analysis will sample a mix of fresh oil and 10 years old oil. Instead of allocating resources on such an oil analysis, I'd rather put fresh oil and new filters (the OP already did that), start the car, run it on a short trip, flush once more and replace (again) filters. from then on, I can be confident the engine is roughly clean, so during the next oil change I will be in a position to analyse how it has evolved since coming back to life.

I would definitively inspect the filter after the initial short trip, as long as their are no large debris, I would relax and enjoy the car. That would be for my own peace of mind (i.e to make me feel better), as the mechanic has probably dropped the oil pan and would have spotted right away any horror story.

 

I think you are worrying too much. Go drive it and enjoy it. Have Blackstone Labs do an oil analysis at the next oil change.


Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app

 

I think it is important to get an analysis of the oil that was in car at first start and run ..that would have the metals etc if any issues ..then after changing that ..run for the normal amount of time and analyze again to see if any continued issues like antifreeze , more wear

Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk

 

I had a 308 that was brought in for a major service. The client had owned the car for several years and it was just time for service. This car was running but not as well as it should. Ended up needing a valve job. As the transmission was separated and being inspected, I discovered that it had some rust from what appeared to be sitting. You could see it was about the oil level line. Now this car was being driven and had been for several years. I asked the client and he said the car had sat for many years before it was returned to run condition and then he bought. He was aware it had sat for many years.
I found a large amount of oil/rust/sludge/mud mixture that had been packed into several places. The most dramatic was the diff and clutch pack. I had to scrape and pick the thick rust colored mixture from every crevice. Once it was cleaned and reassembled, there was no issue.
I was amazed at the amount of debris from the rust that was clearly on the gears when this car was brought back. It just de-rusted itself. I guess these things are pretty tough.