It looks like the Valeo D1S projector with a 2.5" lens will work as well, those are easier to find and the wiring is easier. If I had it to do again that's probably what I would choose. The ignitor is contained in the bulb as I understand it.
So does anyone know which resistor was being replaced in the flasher module to allow for use of LED bulbs in rear turn signals?
@Qavion do you have any thoughts on a source for the resistor that @cwwhk used to make the stock flasher work with LED turnsignals?
Sorry, no idea. I only just figured out that "Ω" is Unicode for the ohms symbol (omega). So that means 249 kilohms. Red/Yellow/White/Orange/Gold There are different part numbers for Hazard/Turn modules depending on the number of turn lights fitted (varies with country). Substituting various resistor values, you could get the flash rate correct. I don't know if cwwhk's car is a Hong Kong car or a Japanese car. Then you have to worry about the shunt resistor for making the turn signals "hyperflash" when one or more bulbs have blown: If you check your lamps regularly, you wouldn't need to worry about the hyperflashing function. Note that on some cars, you would also have to factor in the resistance of the turn indicator bulb in the instrument binnacle. Is this incandescent or LED on the 456M?
Took me a while to figure out what "Ω" was.... So a 150 micro ohm resistor.... it sure looks like replacing that one shunt resistor with a 150 micro ohm version. Reading through the original thread it looked like he determined the only resistor that needed replace was this one resistor... the others appeared to not be needing replacement to achieve the 88 flashes per minute.. which makes sense as the timer is not needed to change just what determines when to trigger hyper flash.
Where did you get that value from? Are you talking about the "shunt"/hyperflash resistor or the flash rate resistor? The existing hyperflash is "milli-ohms". The flash rate is "kilo-ohms" Either way, you have to know what cwwhk's light configuration is. Does his car have turn side-repeaters?
I was referring to the hyper-flash resistor, he called it a shunt resistor. Mis-stated, yes "milli-ohms".... I went through as many threads as I could it looked like his did not have the side repeaters.... I am going to try it out and see what I can find!
I have to restate above... I just went through the posts again and I do think Cwwhk had side "repeaters".... I need to get that calculation and recalculate without those as mine is U.S. spec... more fun with my soldering gun!
So recalculating, I am installing an 8w front turn bulb and two 5w rear lights... plus the dash indicator.. I calculate a 105 milli-ohm resistance should reset the hyperflash to a "bulb out" situation in my U.S. spec car... I am ordering but will take pix and share results on this thread.
Partial SUCCESS!!! So I found a flasher relay that matches our Ferrari relay it's a Werhle see pic. If you open it up and replace the shunt resistor (the silver wire looking resistor pictured) with a 10a 50v Schottky Diode, you can gain proper flash rate with all LED bulbs front and rear. Caveat.....you lose bulb out functionality...I believe replacing with a 100 to 120 milliohm resistor will achieve same but retain "bulb out hyperflash"....I have ordered but will take some time.. Will report more then but till then all flashers and turn signals working with all LED bulbs!!
By the way, I bought the replacement flasher from Pelican Parts off ebay for $40....it is a direct replacement so even of you just want to replace your flasher it's readily available....it fits several models/years of BMW cars.
How did you come up with the idea of using a diode instead of a 249kohm or similar resistor? I thought Schottky Diodes had minimal resistance in the forward direction.
I actually found a lead in reading an thread from 2009 on a BMW forum about adapting their 7 pin flasher for LEDs using a Schottky diode.... got me looking at their flasher, so I ordered one and confirmed the pin layout matched our flasher.... the theory of using a diode with a 0.5-1.0v voltage drop seemed to make sense. Decided to give it a try and it worked....but since it's a diode and not a resistor, the "bulb out hyperflashing" does not work.... I am still looking for the right resistor value (0.1 to 0.13 ohms) to achieve full functionality including "hyperflashing" but the diode works if you don't care about "hyperflashing".... I have 19 additional diodes if anyone wants to give it a try....
So the flash rate was ok with standard bulbs? Just wondering if it’s suitable for cars with turn side repeaters.
Flash rate was exactly same as OEM flash relay.... but mine is U.S. Spec, so no side repeaters........ not sure what size those bulbs are, but I would not think that substantive. Also, for all LED switch over, I would opine that the current "diode" solution works regardless of the number of LED bulbs in that circuit......but others with more electrical knowledge likely could say differently?
The hazard/turn module part numbers are different on US and Euro cars, so there will be some effect on either flash rate or hyper flashing.
Just reporting back 100% success with a 0.1 ohm 2 watt resistor. Correct flash rate with LEDs all around......and bulbous hyperflash when pull a bulb. Here are some pix of the .03 ohm factory resistor installed and replaced with .1 ohm.... I have 14 more .1 ohm resistors if anyone needs a resistor..... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well...I now have to retract my success announcement.....it seems all works correctly with ignition on but engine off...start engine and turn signals hyperflash......odd...I out in the BMW module and it works correctly engine running or not, but no bulb out functionality.... I will need to noodle this some more...I don't see why it would act differently with ignition on engine off versus engine running....hmmmm
Might be the amperage going through the system from the alternator active vs the battery alone. The "cranking amp" rating on the battery isn't available unless there is a commensurate draw. That why you can use jumper wires right to a car battery and connect the smallest bulb without blowing it up .... You are clearly going to work this out to the benefit of us all ....
So, I purchased 0.15 ohm resistors, desolder, resolder... and now I can report success. Not sure if it was the indicator bulbs in the instrument panel that were not in my original calculation, but the 0.15 ohm resistor provides proper flash rate and when pulling one bulb the hyperflash "bulb out" functionality appears to operate correctly. I am now done with this project. I have 20 or so extra resistors if anyone is interested in doing this let me know.