Unknown hose - cant find in diagram | FerrariChat

Unknown hose - cant find in diagram

Discussion in '308/328' started by tx2000252, Feb 8, 2021.

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  1. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
    15
    Full Name:
    Bryn Kahrl
    Probably I am just looking at this wrong, but I am trying to get a replacement for a worn out hose that goes into the engine block just (and slightly center of) the rear distributor boot. The hose is routed toward the passenger compartment and down under the car. At first I thought it was coolant, but i have looked through all the drawings and I can't find one that shows this hose (as far as I can tell). Thanks for any advice!
     
  2. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    Feb 24, 2006
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    Cerritos, CA.
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    Mike
    Where is the other end leads to?
     
  3. Ricambi America

    Ricambi America F1 World Champ
    Sponsor Owner

    What year is your car? I'm guessing its a blow-by hose, like maybe 106981 (2vi) or 118216 (QV).
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,035
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #5 Steve Magnusson, Feb 8, 2021
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2021
    It would help if you gave year/model of your car (because of the air injection cutoff valve in your photo, it's either a '84-'85 US 308QV or US 328). That nipple on the 1-4 cylinder heat is the hot water source for the cabin heater -- for example, hose 39 here:

    https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/308-quattrovalvole-usa/018-cooling-system

    There a fairly decent figure of the heater system in your OM.

    Very common for that hose immediately downstream from the nipple to fail first (as that's where the coolant is the hottest) -- consequently, fairly common to "splice" in a new section there (if not replacing the whole thing).

    (Often the nipple itself rots away so, I think, RA sells a stainless replacement version from Hill Engineering -- but yours doesn't look too bad.)
     
  5. GordonC

    GordonC F1 Rookie
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    Aug 28, 2005
    4,119
    Calgary, AB, Canada
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    Gordon
    Agreed with Steve, that's the coolant supply to the heater control valves at the back of the front trunk (under the windscreen leading edge, but not under the dash - they're accessed by removing the spare tire well in the front). That hose runs from the rear cylinder head, over the left side fuel tank, down and through the left rocker panel, to get to those heater valves.

    The entire heater supply hose is a major pain to change - and the brake vacuum hose (similar diameter hose, braided cover, that comes off the intake manifold plenum chamber) runs right alongside it, so if you're going to change one you should change both at the same time.

    It is possible to splice in a new section of hose, just the first 12 inches or so, at the cylinder head end, as that's the section of hose that suffers from engine heat rubber degradation the most - but that probably should be considered an interim fix to get by until you can replace the entire hose length. Even for a 1989 328, the original hoses would be 32 years old now!

    Gordon
     
  6. Vinsanity

    Vinsanity Karting

    Sep 9, 2013
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    Washington, DC.
    Full Name:
    "VD"
    + 1 on all that. Changing out that entire length of hose is a total cuss-fest. If you only only drive you car to C&Cs or close to home, you should give serious consideration to just replacing the last few inches of hose with a quality splice. Or, you can just cap it off entirely, and live without a heater/defroster. On the other hand, if you actually DRIVE your car and don't want to get stranded somewhere, I recommend going through the trouble now . . . instead of after you get towed home. Or worse.

    I did this job last winter because the heater hose ruptured at the nipple. Not only did I replace the brake booster vacuum line along with it (highly recommended), but I ended up changing out every single hose in the fuel system as well. Reason: in order to have any chance at snaking the heater + vacuum line through the chassis, you have to disconnect the left fuel tank and slide it back. (The oil cooler has to step aside for a while too) In the process of doing that, I found out just how hard and brittle all those fuel lines were. I actually had to cut most of them off.

    You will also need ALOT of lube. Buy two tall cans of silicone spray lubricant. I went through a can-and-half, once I was finished replacing all the additional hoses to/from the heater cores (yes, there two) and the return line to the main coolant circuit (located behind the battery compartment). Do NOT pull the old hoses out, and think you can just push the new ones in. Enzo will laugh at you from beyond the grave, and you will spend the next five years on a frame-off restoration just so you can fix this one problem. The trick is to connect the new hose to the old hose VERY firmly. Mechanics wire and whole bunch of electrical tape worked for me. Then, get a competent and motivated helper (IE, not your teenage son. I tried that first and it didn't work out, but your mileage my vary) and push-pull while continuously re-lubricating from both ends. I recommend working from the front side, and pulling back towards the engine. I tried both directions, but didn't make much progress going forward.

    All that may sound like a lot of work; and it is; but the sight of the nose new hoses finally emerging from the dark and greasy depths of your chassis is one of the greatest thrills of 308 ownership. Like birthing a baby . . . Good luck!
     
    Dr Tommy Cosgrove and GordonC like this.
  7. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
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    Bryn Kahrl
    Awesome, guys!! Thank you so much for all the comments... I confirmed today that it is the heater hose!
     
  8. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
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    Bryn Kahrl
    Thanks! Could you tell me what RA stands for?
     
  9. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
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    Bryn Kahrl
    RA = RicambiAmerica?
     
  10. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
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    Full Name:
    Bryn Kahrl
    WOW... that was an epic reply.... I laughed, I almost cried (thinking of my future).... How did you know about my teenage son? LOL! Agree, that probably wouldn't be a good plan! I am going to order some parts and plan to live the pain... :)
     
  11. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
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    Bryn Kahrl
    Is there enough room to use a strait connector and two cable clamps and clamp both hoses firmly to the connector as a splice to pull it through?
     
  12. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Yes, but, as I said, yours doesn't look like it needs replacing yet.
     
  13. Vinsanity

    Vinsanity Karting

    Sep 9, 2013
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    "VD"
    I tried something like that first. No clamps, just a double-ended barbed fitting and a bunch of electrical tape. Problem is, you end up creating a stiff section that prevents you from being able to thread the hose through the three ~90 degree bends it has to go through. The solution that worked (which my friend suggested from the beginning, but I ignored at first) was to basically sew the new hose to the old hose with mechanic's wire, then wrap it in tape, and grease the hell out of it with spray silicone.

    Incidentally, when I did the smaller hose to and from the heater cores, I used the same technique. Good idea there too, because some of them run deep underneath the dashboard of the car, and everything in there wants to cut your hands when your reaching in. I came to the conclusion that there is a tiny Italian gremlin under my dashboard with a switchblade. Better to leave him alone if you can.
     
  14. Vinsanity

    Vinsanity Karting

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    "VD"
    And I didn't even mention that part where I slipped and fell on my ass because my garage floor was so slippery from all that silicone spray. :D
     
  15. GordonC

    GordonC F1 Rookie
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    Aug 28, 2005
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    Nope, as Vinsanity explained. Here's what worked for me - stitching a pair of zip ties through the butted hose ends. If the old hoses are rotten, it won't work, as it would tear out of the old hose, but if they're still reasonably strong it works great. Blue hose for coolant, black for brake booster. One pic showing how they come through the front wheel well, from rocker panel to under windshield.

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    Milkshaker0007 likes this.
  16. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
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    Bryn Kahrl
    Thanks! Did you go from front to back or from the back toward the front?
     
  17. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
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    Bryn Kahrl
    did you end up moving the gas tank etc with this approach? My hose is still strong.
     
  18. GordonC

    GordonC F1 Rookie
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    Both! ;) From my photos, it looks like I stitched the coolant line at the back and pulled through to the front; then for the brake vacuum line I stitched them at the front and pulled to the back. I recall that going from the front toward the back may have been easier.

    yes, I moved the left side tank back until touching the brake disc -

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    Gordon
     
  19. tx2000252

    tx2000252 Rookie

    Jul 26, 2020
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    Bryn Kahrl
    Thanks! I was hopeing for a different answer but here we go.... Put my jeep back together today... This is next (oh boy!) :) Ordering hoses today.
     
  20. Vinsanity

    Vinsanity Karting

    Sep 9, 2013
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    "VD"
    Go ahead and order fuel hoses as well. You'll probably need them. And just change out both sides while you're at it. Cheap insurance against a fire.
     

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