430 - Is this the sign of a potential F1 transmission issue? | FerrariChat

430 Is this the sign of a potential F1 transmission issue?

Discussion in '360/430' started by NorCalGuy, Feb 11, 2021.

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  1. NorCalGuy

    NorCalGuy Karting

    Sep 28, 2018
    55
    Pleasanton, CA
    Full Name:
    NorCalGuy
    Hello all,
    I own a 07 F430 with 35k miles. About a year ago, I had the clutch assembly replaced including the T/O bearing, wear sensor etc. Since that time, I have put around 700 miles on the car. Note, I mostly drive like a grandma and rarely exceed 7k rpm before shifting. Primarily drive the car around town, going to grocery store, or out for a 30min weekend drive on local roads just to keep fluids flowing and battery charged. With the new clutch, car shifts beautifully. I always let the car warm-up for 5-10min before backing out of driveway.
    However, last weekend, I took the Prancing Pony out for a quick drive to the store. After warm-up, back'd out of my driveway, and proceeded about 50 yards down my street to the stop-sign to make a left turn onto the main road. From my driveway to the main road, I always stay in 1st gear and cruise at about 2-3k rpm. As I pulled out on the main road, I shifted from 1st into 2nd at about 3k rpm, all seemed fine, then about a few seconds later, car felt like the clutch was slipping a little bit, I then shifted into 3rd gear...more slippage. At this point, I'm like WTF?! Then shifted into 4th...even more slippage and felt like clutch was not even engaging. By that time, I was able to come to a stoplight that thankfully had a left turn lane (so I could turn around and nurse it back home). As I slowed down, the transmission did not downshift at all. I came to a complete stop in 4th gear. No warning lights or codes came on. So now, I am panicking...hit the hazards, thankfully no cars were behind me. I then decided to shut the car off and restart...thinking maybe to 'recycle" the system. Shut car off, waited about 15 seconds and restarted. Upon restart, all seemed to be normal, car pulled away and shifted as normal. Since then, I have driven the car 2-3 times and shifts perfectly fine - runs/operates like it should.
    So it got me thinking if this is a sign of a larger F1 transmission issue I need to resolve? Potential actuator issue? Hydraulic pump issue? Since it happened only once, could it have been a glitch in the software/hydraulic system? I am grasping at straws here. Any and all feedback/input is most appreciated!
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 22, 2002
    18,772
    sounds like u glazed the clutch...you cruise in first gear at 3k? why in the world wld you do that? first gear is just to get rolling...
     
  3. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    May 17, 2020
    851
    Costa Mesa, CA
    Full Name:
    Raymond Smith
    Check your battery voltage. The ECUs are *very* sensitive to voltage drops. I have experienced the same type issue which completely disappeared after installing a new battery. Even if you use a Ctek battery maintainer (which I do), if the battery is borderline the voltage can drop precipitously especially after a cold start when maximum cranking voltage is required.

    Ray
     
  4. Snapshift

    Snapshift Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    May 31, 2020
    715
    Centralia IL
    Full Name:
    Lyle D. Pahnke
    Try the F1 reset mentioned earlier. Start engine and after warm, foot on brake, pull up both paddles and hold until it beeps, shows "auto" under the N, and transmission symbol on the lower panel. After that drive as normal. Seems to help my F1 . Get a 12 V Cigarette lighter plug type voltmeter to monitor alternator and battery voltages to avoid the fluky issues that the ECUs seem to have with low voltages, At least you will know what the voltages are if there are any issues.
     
  5. whatheheck

    whatheheck F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Mar 27, 2006
    4,138
    Seattle, Wa
    Full Name:
    Dan L.
    It could be anything.

    I recommend you take it to a reputable Indi Ferrari mechanic so they can pull fault codes and start from there.
     
  6. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    May 17, 2020
    851
    Costa Mesa, CA
    Full Name:
    Raymond Smith
    I agree. First test should be battery voltage. Second should be alternator output under full electrical load.

    Ray
     
    whatheheck likes this.
  7. whatheheck

    whatheheck F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Mar 27, 2006
    4,138
    Seattle, Wa
    Full Name:
    Dan L.
    I agree easy first checks is your battery. Then alternator.

    How old is your battery? If its almost 4 years old its time to replace as these cars are so sensitive to voltage fluctuations and can throw all kinds of faults if voltage power is low or unstable.
     
    Ray Smith likes this.
  8. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    May 17, 2020
    851
    Costa Mesa, CA
    Full Name:
    Raymond Smith
    Yes, a mechanic can use a carbon pile resistor when checking battery voltage. I had checked it but not under load and it said 12.2V. However, under load it was 11.8V. And that difference was enough to play hell with the various ECU and TCU. The car would accelerate erratically, shift erratically, and initially I thought "I'm screwed". After I installed the Odyssey battery they use on bulldozers (;)) the car has operated flawlessly.

    If I had to do it again I would have gone with the Anti-Gravity battery. In a few years I will go that route.

    Ray
     
  9. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,828
    Isle of man- uk
    Put a voltmeter on the system and hit the starter, see how far the volts drop.
    How much fluid in the f1 tank ?
     
    Ray Smith likes this.
  10. carguy007

    carguy007 Formula Junior

    Apr 24, 2013
    839
    These are not tractors. I am sure he is fine cruising in first gear. Car actually shifts better into second at higher rpm around 4k rpm.
     
    Eric C likes this.
  11. Neil G

    Neil G Karting

    Dec 5, 2015
    66
    Suffern NY
    Full Name:
    Neil Goldstein
    I have an 05 F1 with 34000 or so miles. I had the clutch done at about 16000. Btw it’s an f1 too....Anyway.... every now and then when I start the car-in colder weather the clutch slips and after about30 sec to a min of driving the clutch normalizes. Advice for you when you pull out of your driveway... make sure no one is coming and the road is clear. Idk what the solution to this is, just thankful it happens once in awhile and doesn’t bother me much. In fact I hope I’m not jinxing myself as it hasn’t happened in quite sometime. Lol

    Hope this helps you

    Neil


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. Ray Smith

    Ray Smith Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    May 17, 2020
    851
    Costa Mesa, CA
    Full Name:
    Raymond Smith
    Likely the F1 fluid is cold and therefore more viscous. As it warms it becomes easier to pump and flow.

    Ray
     
    Skidkid likes this.
  13. 993man

    993man Formula Junior

    Sep 20, 2009
    872
    New Zealand
    Full Name:
    Graham
    I love these little quirks a Ferrari throws at us!
    The electrical systems are a joke, and I know because the day I bought my 430, I installed a battery tender and popped the air bag ECU.
    They HATE voltage fluctuations. All sorts of crazy things can happen.
     
  14. Neil G

    Neil G Karting

    Dec 5, 2015
    66
    Suffern NY
    Full Name:
    Neil Goldstein
    Speaking of electrical quirks does your mode light stay on in all modes? I hit a pothole awhile back. Electrical system flashed and went crazy Had to shut the car off and restart. Race light stays on whenever I’m in race mode which I do like driving jn all the time anyway but in the other modes indicator light only stays on for a few seconds then screen goes blank


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
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    Aug 8, 2005
    1,728
    Canada, Florida
    Full Name:
    Fred
    Neil when you have the time and proper outside temp verify your battery terminals are not loose. Also checking the ground connections would help too.
     
  16. Neil G

    Neil G Karting

    Dec 5, 2015
    66
    Suffern NY
    Full Name:
    Neil Goldstein
    Thx


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  17. colorfull

    colorfull Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 12, 2020
    1,906
    Franklin Park, New Jersey
    Full Name:
    John Napoli
    I would agree that once you get it all sorted, 1st gear is not for cruising, has nothing to do with babying it

    1st gear gets you moving and if you're at low speeds, 2nd or 3rd gear at least
     

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