I am trying to chase down why I am unable to shift my 2003 360 coupe with the F1 transmission from neutral to 1st gear. I have checked fluid level in the reservoir and the pump does function. My research has lead me to the brake light switch. Although I have removed it from its bracket, I am unable to remove the wiring harness connector. It appears I need a special tool to do so. Can anyone offer advice on how to accomplish this task? Thanks.
Removing the connector/switch from the bracket was a simple turn (about a 1/4 turn as I recall) which allowed removal of the combined assembly from the bracket. As for removing the connector from the switch, it appears it is held in place by twin locking tabs. Perhaps it is my imagination, but I seem to recall seeing a special plies that would compress both tabs and allow the connector to be removed from the switch. At the moment, I am unable to find that tool.
This tool is similar to what I thought I remember seeing for automotive applications. This tool though is for use on PC boards. Hakko CHP PLCC 32 PLCC Socket Extractor 32 Pin ESD Safe New Free Shipping | eBay
wow, that connector is DEE most difficult connector to remove, for me. Period. never had I any chance of not somehow damage the plastics.
How did you remove it? I have the switch coming in the mail today and plan on swapping it out. If I need to go get a tool, that would be great to know. Thanks in advance!
I found the brake light switch connector to be easy to remove. I had a blue one. Maybe the F1 units are different. Edit: Yes, there is a difference between the F1 and gated. The F1 has four leads while the gated only has three. That's probably why it was so easy to disconnect.
Ok, thanks, but does anyone have tips on how to remove it on an F1 360? There must be someone on this forum that has done it before. I've searched and found nothing specifically about the connector.
I suggest removing it from the brake pedal housing first, then with a bright flashlight, look for the inevitable tabs. Typically, they are squeeze and pull type connections. That's what I've seen on all ones I've dealt with. A small flat blade screwdriver can help separate the sides once the tabs are depressed. Since the brake switch is in a benign environment, they shouldn't be stuck together. Look at your replacement part for clues on how they are mated. It should be plenty obvious. If you haven't received the part yet, just wait for it. Whatever you do, DO NOT mess with the plunger. You need to install it as it comes in the package. The first time the brake pedal hits the plunger it will be set at the proper depth. If you mess with the plunger, you may actually ruin the part and need to buy another. The plunger is a ratcheting type mechanism that is like a zip tie. Once in, it ain't coming back out.
first, to ease things up, you need to unscrew it from the metal bracket. then, with flash light and a bent body, you need to use one or 2 small screwdrivers to mess around the clips and use force very awkward and difficult
Fyi, just swapped mine out. There are really no clips per se. There are holes on the side of the switch for you to insert a small screwdriver to "shimmy" the connector loose. Then from there, once you've shimmied enough of a gap, you use the screwdriver to separate the switch from the connector at the connection point.
