I no longer have #1046, would love to know it’s whereabouts today. The esteemed Mr. Staats is the longtime caretaker of #1048.
And, fwiw, I replaced the 1977-dated spare as well. Never been dinged in a concours for having up to date tires. While it would be nice as a perfect garage display....I’m not willing to depend on a 44-year old tire as a spare.
Please also note this extraordinarily rare cooling feature on your remarkable Bora: Image Unavailable, Please Login ENJOY her!
Oh yes, I did see that. I’ve been all over this. Might want to replace the crush washers at one caliper, but it’s really minor, wouldn’t do it unless I had it in for something more flamboyant, and don’t know how long that has been like that. The parking brake, on the other hand....I am noodling on a solution, it’s a pretty funky setup.
I dedicated many hours to the parking brake and never came up with a solution. Took the cable out and verified that it moves freely. It works, unless you are on a hill Hope you can figure it out. Ivan
Solved years ago: Re-route it away from the exhaust which causes it to dry and seize. Make sure the whole line is insulated by some 'NASA approved' heat wrap which I found years ago. If needed I will try to dig it up. Regards.
I know heat melting the handbrake sleeve can be a problem on a Bora except I do not think that is the problem in this case. I was able to move the cable inside the sleeve without a problem. Still, the heat shield is a great idea. Ivan
Well on the USA cars with thermal reactors they get hot enough to cause the nylon inner liner to melt and fuse the cable. I had to replace everything. This happened to me on my initial purchase drive home trip. So I had a local truck brake/clutch cable supplier make new cable housings. Then I went to a sailing rigging shop and had them swedge onto stainless steel cable new end fittings that operate those mechanical calipers. They were identical looking, in stainless steel and even had a trident embossed on them because of the marine brand. I sleeved the cable housings with silicon heater hose and never had another problem again. Even after all my high speed runs in Nevada.
Looks like the same Ted Bonny modification he made on his 73 Bora # 604 he used to run in Mexico ages ago now. I think a few people have tried that. I wonder if it actually helps?
I’m lucky enough to have a long term affiliation with a supplier of high end hoses and thermal products to the racing and aerospace industry; we restored a couple of F1 cars, and they use some flamboyant heat shielding. So access to the higher performance world, I hope, will help as we take a closer look at why that little brake is recalcitrant.
Your car has or had the thermal reactors at one time so some of the liner may have melted and deposited on the cable and is casing a hang up at times. A trcuk cable serivicing shop can probably make you a new set albeit WO stainless cable and the fancy stainless connectors I ended up using. It's that plastic liner getting close to headers that's the issue. So if you insulate with some fire sleeve or even just do what I did you'll be good to go. I added a lot of SS heat shields on my car. I think I replaced that one that "protected" the brake cables as well. There's no asbestos left on my car now.
You appear to be a very knowledgeable perfectionist. If I may make a suggestion backed by 33 years of Bora ownership please replace the thermal reactors with euro headers, correct the timing and then proceed as you see fit. Regards.
Thanks for the kind words, Boralogist. I am new to the marque, though, and it will take some time to acquire a reasonable base of knowledge. You have probably forgotten more than I'll learn in the next three years or so. So it's a steep learning curve, but I do have some experience in other marques, like the amount of attention to detail takes to win a concours, and what it takes to reliably put a F1 car on the track. So I'm not coming from zero, but I'm clearly a newbie here, and I'm not afraid to ask dumb questions.
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Speaking of dumb questions, can a Campagnolo magnesium wheel be welded/repaired? There appears to be some contradictory information out there. If yes, does anyone know who is capable of doing it? If no, anyone know of a spare wheel (or 2) for sale for a Bora? New Campagnolo wheels are available, but unlike the originals they have “Campagnolo" cast into the edge of the rim. Please see pics: Original wheel, cracked wheel, new wheel.
Unfortunately Mag wheels become dangerous and need to be replaced by alloy ones, there is no way around that, there have been failures and accidents.
The original wheel on the late model Boras without hub caps had a Campagnolo sticker that looks identical to what is on the new wheel in the box. Are you sure it is cast and not just a sticker? Earlier Boras with hub caps had a different sticker Ivan
Not sure. You can just make out the cast logo at about one o'clock on the early original wheel in the top photo. There are no stickers. On the new wheel in the bottom photo it looks like a sticker at the 4 o'clock position, but "Campagnolo" appears cast into the rim at the 3 o'clock spot. Art
This is the sticker, an early Bora rim should show. You can order a new set of stickers here: (scroll down) https://www.isorivoltaclub.de/rims-spinners-felgen-fl%C3%BCgelmuttern/felgen-zv-rims-center-hub/ Image Unavailable, Please Login
In alloy or mag? In the latter case not desirable. When I last spoke to Candini they had a few alloy Khamsin wheels they had arranged to produce but I don't know about Bora wheel availability.
Candini wheels are not NOS. They are alloy wheels "Campagnolo-replica" for Khamsin made by CNC from a forged block.