458 458 Interior Removal

I didn’t have any shims on my car. The shop manual also makes no mention of shims, so I’m wondering if only cars with CF have them due to less precise manufacturing methods, and / or different thickness material?

 

Do you have a guide on removal of the trim behind the seats and on the door frame? Trying to install a 2 channel dashcam and wanted to get an idea on the cable routing.

 

Hey buddy. I need to remove all the interior to get it carbon dipped

(Uk)

left air vents
Middle air vents
Right vents
Centre section (where the keys go)

can you like these for me as I can’t see the ones above on my phone

 

Could you tell me what size Torx it is? I have been fiddling around but can’t seem to undo them. What do mean by tamper proof? What’s the trick? THANKS!

 

Tamper proof Torx fasteners require a special Torx tool bit with a hole in the end of the bit. Tamper proof Torx fasteners have a recessed star hole in the top with a round rod in the centre of the star.

The tamper proof Torx bits have a hole in the end of the bit that fits in the top of the tamper proof fastener. Standard Torx bits will not work in tamper proof Torx fasteners, you will need a tamper proof Torx bit to remove them...

Cheers!

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Awesome thanks! Got the right bit now, anyone knows the right size? (Don’t want to bugger them

 

It’s a T30

 

Cheers brah and good luck!

 

Good Luck Owen. Just take your time and you'll be good to go. Let us know how it went.

 

Sticky indicator buttons sorted! I went OEM replacement and having the old parts recoated for future use. Same with gearbox controls, already done. Window switched to follow!
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Just pulled my climate control unit out to get refinished. Thanks to Doubled33 instructions, it was a piece of cake. I got it out in less than 10min.


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Wow that’s great - can you point me to these instructions?
Thanks,

 

Any advice on getting the steering wheel to that point? I removed the airbag, but am having difficulty finding the next step from there. I can't sort out how to remove the silver aluminum piece without removing the entire steering wheel. I appreciate any advice! Thanks.

They are T25. Tamper proof means the bit has to have a little hole in it. Google “tamper proof t25” and it’ll become clear.





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I removed the torx bits and airbag. I’m feeling stuck beyond that. How do I remove the aluminum cover? It seems way too stuck to just pry it off. Are there any other bolts that need to be removed besides the two torx?

I’m trying to remove the turn signals for refinishing.


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Nope. It just the airbag holding the cover in position. There are two stanchions that insert into two columns which have a hole in the middle. You can see right one clearly in post #36. It is located at the upper center corner of the cover. I hope this makes sense.

 

@up4speed - Photo two of the lower left panel which holds the wing mirrors switch and headlight switch is super helpful. Does that panel just pull out? Any special tools required?

 

I think some of the cars may have a screw under the steering wheel (on the same panel) securing it, but others don't. Mine had 2 screws under there, but after removing them, I realized that they were just there to hold a dense foam piece inside the cover, they don't actually secure the cover. I'm pretty sure it is just a crash pad to protect your knee in the event of a collision. In other words, I don't think that they have to be removed (on my car), but others may have a screw that actually secures the piece. I am assuming that it may vary year to year. Other than that, the piece just pulls straight off, if you look at the photo, you will see the mounting pins.
As I described earlier, the panel may be a little difficult to remove the first time you do it, but if you put a tiny but of white lithium grease on the pins, it will be much easier in the future.
The attached file shows the instructions for removal. The model in the writeup does have the mounting screw that I was referring to.

 

Thanks @up4speed. I'll tackle this little project this weekend. Seems simple enough. The instructions you shared are labled MyRicambi. Whats the link with them? They're just up the street from me.

 

No link. I just liked the instructions. I try to save anything that I feel will help me or someone else in the future.

 

I emailed Denis at MyRicambi. He said those instructions are from 2013! Thank goodness you saved them.

 

@upforspeed. I couldn't wait and made the wing mirror switch swap after work today. Probably a 2 on a scale of one to ten in degree of difficulty. Took an hour start to finish and that included resetting the ECU because of a dumb error opening the top caused an alarm I couldn't quiet. Had to disconnect the battery anyway to swap to switch so no biggie. Thanks again for the help.

All, I took photos and will be posting a separate thread on replacing the wing mirror switch on a 2015 458. I'll link here when done. Ciao ciao.

 

As promised:
2015 458 Wing Mirror Switch Replacement
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/2015-458-wing-mirror-switch-replacement.642188/

 

Hi All, I have a 458 Spyder 2014 and the centre channel speaker is playing up. Anyone know how to replace this?

 

DoubleD33's instructions proved spectacularly helpful to me as I dismantled and then put my dash back together! Dismantling the dash is not difficult really. It just requires lots of patience. You'll end up doing a much better job, and actually getting done sooner, if you take it slow. The best part is that by doing the work myself, I was able to fix things that weren't right, add sound insulation, and ensure that all screws and washers went back exactly where they needed to go. A professional Ferrari-licensed mechanic may have more experience than me, but he/she cares less about my particular car than I do. So now I know for a fact that my car was put back together correctly.

In order to "give back to the community" I thought I'd share a few helpful techniques and tools that might help others. Hope it proves useful.

1. Create a little paper tray with the sides folded up, and position it under your work area, to catch any screws, washers, etc. that might fall. You don't want anything falling into the bowels of your open dash!

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2. Use a mirror at the end of a telescoping extension to view into tough-to-see areas like those close to the windshield or inside the glove box.


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3. Splurge about $30 on miniature rachet wrenches, and flexible extensions.


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4. Take lots of pictures before you remove things, and label all electrical connectors and each screw individually with painter's tape. Put all of the screws for each item in a little plastic bag so you don't mix up the glove box screws with those of the binnacle, for example. Also, remember to make note of exactly how each electrical connector is placed in the dash, so you can put them back in exactly the same place when you rebuild your dash.


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5. Be prepared for LOTS of broken plastic when you dismantle your dash. Lots of pieces are broken even before you take them apart, and many more will fall apart and break as you dismantle them and remove them from the dash. You'll find epoxy to be your best friend. I found J-B plastic bonder to work exceptionally well.

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