DIY Headliner repair with pix | FerrariChat

DIY Headliner repair with pix

Discussion in '360/430' started by mr_bock, May 6, 2016.

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  1. mr_bock

    mr_bock Formula 3

    Oct 27, 2006
    1,372
    FL full time
    #1 mr_bock, May 6, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    This will be evolving as ordered materials arrive and updates are made.



    Today I went to Tony's Upholstery shop in Edgewater, FL. Very informative!!! He said that the Florida high temperatures and humidity contribute to the deterioration of adhesive and foam. Does not matter what brand of car involved. I was applying leather care product to my headliner and just the pressure of my pad was enough to crush the foam completely. A few moments later, one half of the headliner was hanging down! I pulled it the rest of the way down and out. I used a shop vac to suck off the remaining foam. That foam was totally destroyed and sort of gooey.

    I have already removed the leather trim panels that surround the two by three foot piece that fell down. I vacuumed the old crappy foam off the roof. there is a thin (approx. 1/8" thick) panel of insulating material that has to be removed. This will be a Royal PITA!!!! Tony did not want to have anything to do with the removal. This panel has old adhesive, old foam residue, etc... that will interfere with any new adhesive. We discussed alternatives (Alcantara - lighter weight). I am going to first remove the OEM insulation and am considering using a layer of Dynamat sound absorber and then a layer of Dynaliner for thermal barrier. I will see if I can work with the OEM leather piece and re-glue it to the Dynaliner. I need to do a 'stack up' of material thickness to see if it will be compatible with the trim panels. I measured a gap of about 3/8" between the edge of the trim pieces and the roof skin. I decided to use Dynamat that is .067" thick. Over that will be Dynaliner that is .250" thick. I will glue 1/8" thick headliner foam to the Dynaliner. I will do my best to clean any and all old adhesive from the OEM leather interior panel. There is a concern of getting good adhesive bond to the leather backing, but I will give it a shot. My big concern is getting the leather positioned and smooth to the foam. This will be a one time shot as the contact cement does not allow corrections.

    This morning I removed the passenger seat and placed a blanket and heavy duty drop cloth over most of the interior. I started on the insulation pad with a hooked pick (see pix) working the outside edge. I quickly found that the pad pulled off fairly easily. Care must be used as the aluminum roof panel does flex. There were large areas where the pad was not stuck to the roof.

    Next I used a heat gun (set to 650 degree F max) carefully to soften the remaining material and with a putty knife removed the adhesive. Wear eye protection as the scrapings tend to fly off and can be hot! In one of the pix, you can see where I used Goof Off on a rag to get most of the remaining adhesive off.

    In a few days, I should be receiving the Dynamat and Dynaliner products. I will be applying this to the roof area per the manufacturers instructions.

    To be continued...
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  2. andy308

    andy308 Formula 3

    Jan 16, 2005
    2,020
    Sarasota, FL
    Full Name:
    Andy
    I did something similar when mine fell down. I peeled that crappy insulating material off and used it as a template to make a new piece from an upholstery shop and they simply reused the old leather, looks like new again.
     
  3. 400iGuy

    400iGuy Formula 3
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 26, 2004
    1,055
    Central Florida
    Full Name:
    Al
    Now I have a 3rd reason to like my spider.
    First. My sunburned scalp.
    Second. The big grin on my wife when the top is down (which is almost always).
    Third. my headliner won't fall on my head due to the Florida heat! LOL.

    Good luck with your project. Hope to see the completed headliner soon.

    Al
     
  4. mr_bock

    mr_bock Formula 3

    Oct 27, 2006
    1,372
    FL full time
    Today I went over the whole roof with Goof Off and the putty knife and removed almost all the remaining glue. Monday it will be just the Goof Off on a rag to remove the last remaining glue. Followed with alcohol so the surface is prepared for the application of Dynamat when it arrives.
     
  5. mr_bock

    mr_bock Formula 3

    Oct 27, 2006
    1,372
    FL full time
    #5 mr_bock, May 13, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    A few days have gone by waiting for the Dynamat and Dynaliner to arrive. I also had to replace the AC clutch and field coil in my wife's CRV Honda. Gotta keep her happy!!!!

    Here are pix of the Dynamat being cut out and installed. I used HVAC aluminum duct tape to seal the joints. Next is the Dynaliner cut out and installed over the mat. Together these products will control noise, vibration and heat/cold entering the cabin via the roof panel.

    Next I will purchase some 1/8" foam that will be glued to the leather pad backing and then to the Dynaliner. This should happen next week.
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  6. ideloera

    ideloera Formula Junior

    Jun 2, 2015
    525
    Chicago
    Full Name:
    Isi
    Thanks for posting this. Will come in handy when the time comes.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. jackgt

    jackgt Formula Junior

    Jan 27, 2015
    499
    california
    Full Name:
    Jack
    My foam is perfect for now, but it is hard to follow your thread. could you recap the process and the materials used?---
     
  8. mr_bock

    mr_bock Formula 3

    Oct 27, 2006
    1,372
    FL full time
    #8 mr_bock, May 17, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    This is a continuing process as I am documenting/pix as I go (you will need to read all from the beginning).

    Basically, the old foam, insulation, glue needs to be removed completely. I bought .067" thick Dynamat Door kit. I trimmed the release paper up to the mat edge. I wanted to 'butt' the mat pieces as I installed the 12" wide sections. It was easier to work with four pieces rather than one large piece. See pix where I taped the pieces together so I could mark the outline of the leather pad. Next was the 1/4" Dynaliner foam insulation. Again, I used the leather pad to trace an outline to cut against. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for installation of the 'Dynamat' products.

    Today I picked up 1/8" thick foam that has a stretchy backing mesh. I marked a few black Sharpie dots to show the rough outline of the leather pad. I sprayed the mesh side of the leather pad and the foam (larger than the dot outline) with the 3M adhesive (see pix) and waited a couple of minutes before placing the pad down. Careful to make it smooth in one motion. An hour or so, I trimmed the foam up to the leather pad. This will be set aside flat till the next day when the leather pad/foam assembly will be adhesive sprayed and installed.

    I had some sheets of wrapping paper and painters tape that were used to mask the cabin area while spraying the adhesive on the roof insulation foam.

    While the trim pieces are out, there were some cracks and a broken mounting hole. I used fiberglass and resin to make the repairs. I should mention, some of the panel mounting fasteners were damaged or looked sketchy. Ricambi to the rescue with replacement fasteners. I found that the surround for the small mirror in the passenger side sun visor had pulled away from the mirror glass. I taped the mirror and will trim the excess away to hopefully minimize gluing mess. This was also a great time to apply leather conditioner to all of the trim pieces.

    Refer to the pix....
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  9. mr_bock

    mr_bock Formula 3

    Oct 27, 2006
    1,372
    FL full time
    #9 mr_bock, May 18, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Here is the wrap up to this project....

    I was all set to spray the 3M 98 product and thought to run out for more of this adhesive. After going to three hardware and one auto parts store, I find that nobody carries this #98 product. I bought #90 and tried some test pieces. Seems that the #90 is a newer, safer, weaker, greener, government mandated crap as compared to the older stronger, higher temperature rated stuff. I did have a can of 3M Super 77 spray. That was much better and the two worked well together.

    I marked the front and rear edge of the cabin roof on the paper mask to guide me as to align the pad to the roof. Sprayed the adhesive to the roof Dynaliner foam and the foam that was glued to the leather pad. Actually, I am not sure if it really leather and not Naugahyde? I carefully aligned the front and rear marks and pressed the pad onto the roof foam, working down the middle and out to the edges. Try not to create and bubble between the two pieces. Press all over to get complete contact of the pieces together.

    I used new trim anchor pieces as I reinstalled the panels. I am done for the day and will install the passenger seat tomorrow. Final vacuum of the inside and say a job well done. The cost of materials was about $150. Labor, just my time.

    Time for a drink!!!
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    Penzinger likes this.
  10. Bob in Texas

    Bob in Texas F1 Rookie

    Apr 23, 2012
    2,665
    Just East of Weird
    Full Name:
    Bob
    Been following this from the beginning. Truly a great job, and a LOT of work, but from the looks of it, well worth your effort.
    A good thread for future folks search for repair tips. congrats! go have a beer.
     
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  11. Kevin Rev'n

    Kevin Rev'n Two Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Nov 29, 2009
    22,964
    Honolulu
    Full Name:
    Kevin
    I have been giving this work a lot of thought myself. Where did you find the sequence for the interior trim removal, or is that no big deal?
     
  12. mr_bock

    mr_bock Formula 3

    Oct 27, 2006
    1,372
    FL full time
    I did a search for 'cabin trim removal' or something like that on the F-Chat 360/430 site and came up with a thread that explained the sequence. There is definitely a sequence! I will see if I can locate it and paste it in. The trim panel anchors seem to age and get brittle as I found out and had to buy more. Ricambi had them, but you had to buy min 10 pieces.

    I only removed the passenger seat for better access in there and used many blankets and drop cloths (not plastic). Also the rear side panels that cover the seat belt mechanism were popped off, but not removed from the car. You should wrap them well to protect from any scratches, etc...

    Good luck, Take your time, think things thru.

    When you are applying the glued 'leather' panel to the glued roof, you only have one try to get it aligned and pressed on flat. The contact glue does not allow re-positioning!!!!
     
    veilstylez likes this.
  13. mr_bock

    mr_bock Formula 3

    Oct 27, 2006
    1,372
    FL full time
    Do a search for 'how to remove interior roof trim panels' that Sled Driver asked. Read down and note comments by bisel (Big Thanks for posting). Again, just don't start yanking on stuff. Look at what the part is and what may need to be done to remove and not break anything.

    Hope your project goes well!!!!!
     
  14. Rosso328

    Rosso328 F1 Veteran
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 11, 2006
    6,795
    Central FL
    Full Name:
    Paul
    I'm sure it will, because when my headliner starts to go, I'll just call you!! You do make house calls, right?

    See you at C&C this weekend?


    Btw, noticed in one of the photos, it's very convenient to have an old German car in the garage to rest trim pieces on as you work. :)
     
  15. Carbide

    Carbide Karting

    Sep 27, 2019
    61
    West Bloomfield, MI
    Full Name:
    Dave Schneyer
    Do you have a link? I can't seem to find it using the search function.

    Thanks!
     
  16. Robb

    Robb Moderator
    Moderator Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Feb 28, 2004
    13,875
    Full Name:
    Robb
    Very nice job. Thanks for posting the how-to.

    Robb
     
  17. TuttoBene

    TuttoBene Karting

    Sep 6, 2020
    65
    Full Name:
    Doug
    Thanks for posting this. I'm going through the process now. I removed the old foam, but bits of the old adhesive is still on the roof. The Goof Off had no impact. I also tried nylon brush drill attachments. That also did nothing. My OCD wants to get to a clean roof before I add the Dynamat. I'm thinking about 3M Adhesive Remover next, but I'm wondering if anyone here had success with something other than Goof Off.
     
  18. Sky Hye

    Sky Hye Formula Junior
    BANNED

    Apr 2, 2017
    710
    SoCal
    Rubbing alcohol worked. I used plastic scrapers and alcohol softened the adhesive enough to scrape it off. Goof off worked well too. The gel kind.
     
  19. ItalGerBrit

    ItalGerBrit Formula Junior

    Mar 15, 2016
    804
    S La
    My leather just fell two days ago so will be doing this soon. A question. Why not pull the original panel that was glued to the metal roof, glue the leather onto the scrim backed foam padding, glue that onto the original panel, and then glue that back onto the metal top? Seems like it would be much easier to precisely position the original panel with the leather and foam already on it. The foam scrim backed padding is 1/2" and that is readily available on Amazon, etc. Maybe I missed something?" Is it it difficult to remove that base panel that is glued up onto the metal roof without tearing it up? I watched the video and seems like that might be the easiest way to do it. I have used Dynamat before and it works well but wondering why one would use that when the 1/2" padding is available?
     
  20. TuttoBene

    TuttoBene Karting

    Sep 6, 2020
    65
    Full Name:
    Doug
    In my case the original panel is itself not in a good state. It didn't tear, but it doesn't look like it's a good condition. And I would need to remove all the glue residue off which could be a huge pain. My 360 came with a cloth liner, though so it might be slightly different than the leather one. I'm still scraping glue off the roof, but once that's done I'm thinking that it will be easier to glue the cloth onto the Dynaliner foam while it's outside the car and then stick it on the roof as 1 piece. I think I can use the original panel as a template to cut out the foam. I'm also going to do the Dynamat in sections as the first layer, much like mr_bock because I don't know if the Dynaliner foam will stick as well to the bare metal roof. I was never good at arts and crafts so I'm not enjoying this job.
     
  21. ItalGerBrit

    ItalGerBrit Formula Junior

    Mar 15, 2016
    804
    S La
    My concern with the foam not on a rigid or semi-rigid panel would be getting the material perfectly flat on the roof with no wrinkles or lumps because the glue grips instantly and cannot be repositioned. If my base panel is messed up, I will look for a substitute material to have the entire assembly done before the final gluing to the roof. Let us know how your project works out. Maybe it will be easier than we think.
     
  22. sierra055

    sierra055 Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 25, 2016
    353
    Melbourne, AU
    Full Name:
    Marshall
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  23. ItalGerBrit

    ItalGerBrit Formula Junior

    Mar 15, 2016
    804
    S La
    Looks perfect. Did you install the foam and leather onto the base board and then attach it s one assembly? Whatever you did, it sure looks like it was the right way.
     
  24. sierra055

    sierra055 Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 25, 2016
    353
    Melbourne, AU
    Full Name:
    Marshall
    Alas, I can't take credit for the installation. I love to work on my car but know my limits and had an auto trimmer do that part for fear of screwing it up.
    I, like the OP, used dynamat on the roof, then the trimmer glued the leather to the foam, then the foam to the roof. No baseboard.
    The original fabric/leather can easily be used as a template and it has a notch cut out for the centre point. Presumably you could line this up first, then work outboard. For me though, cost was <$500AUD so was a no brainer to have someone more skilled than I do it
     

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