Hi all. Does this stuff work or is it ‘snake oil’? https://www.amazon.com/BG-Ethanol-System-Defender-Drier/dp/B076B2WH3L As an alternative, I’ve also heard that using ethanol-free gas with a lead-substitute additive is optimal for old Ferrari engines and related systems. I don’t know much about either—looking to learn more. Steve M, Vincenzo, TurboJoe or anyone else with related knowledge, please chime in.
I'd be wary of the "drier" -- some use methanol, and I had a recollection that Larry Fletcher (www.CISFlowTech.com) had a warning about using products with methanol in CIS systems (and I found it): https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/138297492 I also like his suggestion to "pre-test" any black magic liquid fuel additive that you might be considering before pouring it in to you fuel system by buying some "ordinary" Buna-N O-rings and soaking them in said additive for a while to see if anything horrible (like swelling or dissolving) happens to the O-ring material compared to a sample not soaked.
This paper seems like a credible summary of the benefits of these products, and digs a little into ways in which ethanol in gasoline reates problems. https://cropwatch.unl.edu/documents/Ethanol%20and%20Water%20Contamination%2009052014.pdf
V4NGO if you are fortunate enough to live in an area that has ethanol free pumps just pay the price and use it. I have been told by many mechanics that especially the older, last century cars ,suffer from ethanol fuel. I believe in Marvel Mystery Oil and Sea Foam for the lubricating properties and cleaning properties. Octane boosts I believe are sort of snake oil. Put some av gas in on occasion like a good friend of mine does. I am fortunate enough to live in south Florida where many gas stations sell ethanol free fuel. I run it in all my gas engines. Obviously the cost is a bit more but after talking with some Ferrari mechanics it is well worth it. Now to change the subject a bit. I also run Marvel Mystery Oil regularly and Sea Foam once in a while for a system clean up. I have been doing this as long as I have owned the internal combustion engine (50 years plus). It's probably a little late to find out I have been peeing my money away. Any thoughts.
Ethanol free doesn't mean lead free, just to summarize what others have said. It's just real gas. My '15 Audi's manual says, more or less, 'if your engine doesn't run right, use real gas.' Not all states allow it. I use it any time I have a choice, and search for it. On at least 2 occasions, other customers told me 1) I was ruining my engine 2) voiding the warranty. Signage on the pump is intended to encourage ethanol fuels. Your government at work....
There is an ethanol-free pump at a station near me, but the gas is rated 87 octane. Is the downgrade in octane rating worth having gas free of ethanol, all things considered?
87 AKI in the US is ~92 RON in your part of the world. Ferrari's octane specification for US TR is 87 AKI.
Try marinas. They normally have ethanol free 92 octane gas. The problem is the pumps are at the docks. You will have to fill and haul five gallons at a time. Oh, the things we do. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Avgas is best, does not go bad for a long long time and has a bit of lead which older valves need. 100 octane too. John
Guys were always coming in trying to get avgas when I worked at FBOs. My boss said it will burn up the valves in a car engine. Don’t know if that’s true but you may want to look into it before using it. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Aviation fuel, 100LL. Have used it for years in all my old cars, never goes bad and a bit of lead for the valves is good for lubrication. Not sure what someone would say it would burn up valves? Think old wives tale? All gas had lead when most old cars were made. John
I use ethanol free race gas 100 octane. You can even order it online from sunoco and others. I use a 50/50 mixture with 93 pump gas (which is 10% ethanol), so Im averaging 5% ethanol and with that mix and it runs great. If im going far I fill the car 100% with race gas, and then I can fill up at a 1/2 tank with pump gas and my ideal mix ratio is good. What I've found with race gas in the BBi and even my computer controlled e46 m3 is that the low end of the powerband is simply far crisper, no stumbling and throttle response everywhere is far more imdediate, top end is angry charge. So much so that both feel like completly different cars and if I have to run straight pump gas the difference is significant. almost like the car is crying. The 50/50 mixture works best and is not different in feel to 100% race gas. So its probably the way the fuel burns more than octane, although at 50/50 its got to be 96?. For winter storage I used to fill the tanks and put stabil in, did that for decades, but with race gas its stable on its own for a year, so I just go 100% race gas for storage. The rub in all this is Race gas is $10 per gallon so a ix makes sense and you dont have to fill the tank for storage. I did try avgas and also they were selling 110 octane leaded race gas for $7. What I found was that with prolonged idling or low speed use the plugs did indeed start to foul from the lead. My 1986 yamaha also loves that race gas, and even the 10 harley which is an injected bike fells way better with the unleaded 100 race gas. I think while the ethanol fuel may have the octane it simply burns like crap. I dont think its an octane issue its the way ethanol burns, or at least 10% ethanol, at 5% its all good.
If there is a question about ingredients, go to the MSDS sheets: Most products in the USA have them available with a quick Google search. BG Ethanol Fuel System Defender MSDS BG Ethanol Fuel System Drier Defender: 40 - 70% Naphtha (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy 30 - 60% Stoddard solvent 1 - 5% 1,2,4-trimethylbenzene 0.1 - 1% ethylbenzene Drier 60-100% Isopropyl alcohol No Methanol is listed. Isopropanol is the only ingredient listed with the Drier (60% to 100%). I presume the remainder is WATER. You can buy Isopropanol almost anywhere, from lab supply vendors to your local pharmacy to your local building supply store. I can't say if that would be an overall benefit or not, but like the idea of trying a test.
I found this formula, but have yet to use it. It boosts octane ~and~ adds a lead substitute. Any thoughts would be welcomed.
I used a similar octane booster in my detonation prone, high mileage ‘94 big block F250 when towing over the Sierra. Seemed to help. Prior posts suggest using av gas with lead.... DON’T DO IT! Even a small amount of lead will destroy your cats.