308-328 Mobil #1 and a Zinc additive?

I have a 308 and a Boxer, not sure if the factory has a current recommendation other than what is stated in the owner manual. At the dealer, in my experience, they recommend the same oil as all of the other cars new or old, Pennzoil synthetic[

 

Absolutely true - the myth of high zinc requirement is just that, a myth. It's never been needed or specified for double overhead cam engines of any sort.

You heard the myth.

My Ferrari 308 QV has a specification plate listing oil as AGIP SINT 2000 - a synthetic oil, factory spec in 1984. I really doubt they downgraded the oil to non-synthetic for the 328. If your 328 also says AGIP SINT 2000 - then Ferrari did indeed specify synthetic oil, starting with the 308 QV and every engine since.

Absolutely true. The high zinc flat tappet myth started when people decided the old American pushrod engines needed high zinc because of the extremely high pressures on the valve lifter faces against the cams, pushing heavy pushrods, rockers, large valves, and stiff valve springs - lots of inertia and valve force in those engines. There is a fraction of the inertia and valve spring force in a DOHC engine, and nowhere near the same pressures on the cam lobe to lifter face - even if the bucket or shim directly under the OHC is flat. A double overhead cam engine is NOT a flat tappet engine in the sense of high zinc requirement.

Gordon

 

328 original spec is also Agip Sint 2000

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Our Guru used Brad Penn, now Penn Grade semi synthetic oil, which has zinc in it in the 308.I now use it on our 66 Mustang, 70 280 SL, and 53 Chrysler with the first Hemi engine. He did use Mobile 1 in our 308.


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Also, no leak problem at all. The 308 has 51k miles.


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I should have said Mobile 1 in the 360. Brain fart


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"If Im correct, Ferrari did not recommend synthetic oil for a 328 , not arguing , Im not sure what they say to use in a 328, but its not synthetic"

My 1989 328 owner's manual specifies AGIP Sint 2000 10W40. AGIP Sint 2000 is synthetic oil. So Ferrari definitely recommended syn oil, at least by '89.

 

Well, I thought for sure I was correct, guess not lol

Thank you

 

Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage. 328 has 101k miles, runs great, engine never been apart.

 

If Gino's mechanics cam seals leak after replacement, it's because they did a bad job, not because of synthetic oil. I'm no pro mechanic, but I replaced my cam seals in my 308 QV in 2014, and they still don't leak a drop. My shift rod seals don't leak either. I use 100% synthetic since buying the car in 2013.

Fact is that modern synthetics (ie since the early 1970s) are no more prone to leaks than regular mineral oils. The only circumstance where leaks after changing from mineral oil to synthetic has been noted is where old seal surfaces were crudded up with wax/paraffin deposits and sludge from the mineral oil, and the detergents in a modern oil like a good synthetic start to dissolve the cruddy deposits, allowing the ancient seals to leak.

 

Yep, the repair for "synthetic oil leaks" is the same as any other leak - fix the faulty seal/gasket/fitting that is leaking.

 

I do use synthetic gear lube in the gearbox of my 328, I just had the shift shaft seals replaced, along with new gear lube,gasket with that being said, a little gear lube seemed to leak out over time prior, even with a new plate gasket.

Thank you

 

It will be coming down one or more of the studs securing the pan. its very, common.

 

brad penn

stfu

 

Just noticed that you are in PA. Of course you use Brad Penn. I like it as well!

 

We Italians recomend to use Arma di Taggia (from Liguria region) very famous and appreciated Olive oil. Also Garda lake olive oil is not bad at all. Both are excellent with fish (doesn't matter if Italian fish or not). Both improve a lot the top sexual power and durability. This about the lunch and dinner use. As for the cars, Agip SINT2000 was (one of) the best oils available at the times (40 years ago), Agip was Ferrari main sponsor so they recomended that. Sint 2000 was not a fully synthetic oil (there weren't at the time, the first here in Europe was the Mobil 1) and so you can put in any oil you want or prefer. I would go with a 5-40 or a 5-50 (full synth), the second only if you track the car or (even more) for continuative high speed driving (German motorways): otherwise the 50 oil is useless if you never go over 100 °C oil temperature.

ciao

 

Finally! Someone who understands the problem! ;-)

 

Still can't get my head around why people run 20-50 unless you live in a desert (or maybe you have a very worn engine!)

The 20 part means its thick when its cold , much thicker than a 0, 5 or 10W multigrade & so it doesn't get around your engine as fast when you cold start it & the 50 part means it needs a higher operating temperature (than the specified W40) to get it down to the correct viscosity when its warm. A W40 oil will function correctly at temperatures way above where these cars will operate anyway.

0W40 or 5w40 is where its at IMO.

(YMMV!)

 

People can use whatever oil they want, I live in So Cal, its pretty warm if not hot during the year, it is a desert, and with the 3x8 motors in the back, the engine compartment gets pretty hot, especially during the summer, why do I use 20/50 , because its the best for my cars environment and engine life, 102 K miles, and not a loss of compression over the last 22 years of ownership. I change my oil every 3000 miles, so synthetic," shimthetic" who cares. All my Ducatis take 15 / 50 , thats from the factory, why, the motors run very very hot !! lol Why would I not run 20/50 in my Ferrari, the Ducs take synthetic, so thats what I use in them. Im sure not smarter than the Factory, but I believe 20/50 in my motor will not break down the way 10/40 will , in the hot environment my car runs in. I dont live in an area that gets below 45 degrees F, for the most part , throughout the year.

Thank you