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Torque value lower drive pulley

Discussion in '308/328' started by crixer, Mar 16, 2021.

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  1. crixer

    crixer Rookie

    Mar 27, 2010
    39
    #1 crixer, Mar 16, 2021
    Does anyone know what the torque value is for the lower drive pulley on a 328 is? I’m about to change them (hopefully tonight). I don’t feel safe turning the motor over to set TDC so I’m going to cam lock and mark as much as I can on the old belts and pulleys. I have new nuts and the tool. Any tips on not losing timing?

    thanks in advance!
     
  2. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    #2 Hinecker, Mar 17, 2021
    Hello from sunny Spain!
    Search on internet for ferrari documentation, Carl Rose kindly posted all the workshop manuals he could find, download them for free!!!
    Hope this helps,

    John
     
  3. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    #3 Hinecker, Mar 17, 2021
    Hello again,
    Setting the timing is not all that easy, there is a mark on the flywheel(1-4 TDC). On the camshafts, there is a mark on each camshaft, you have to pull off the covers to see these marks correctly. Lower nuts are very tight, might as well cut them off with a small chisel, pulleys may be on tight(I needed a puller). Next step would be tightening the belts, follow the manual, belt on the 1-4 bank is tightened when #1 is in TDC compression stroke. Belt 5-8 bank is tightened when #5 is on TDC compression stoke.
    All this comes in the manual.

    Good luck!

    John
     
    crixer likes this.
  4. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,464
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    #4 yelcab, Mar 17, 2021
    Securing timing belt driving gear is 120 Nm.

    I would not do this unless you move everything to number 1 TDC, mark all pulley positions, and have a way to get back to all those positions accurately. BTW, change the belts.
     
    crixer, BLACK HORSE and waymar like this.
  5. Vinsanity

    Vinsanity Formula Junior

    Sep 9, 2013
    266
    Washington, DC.
    Full Name:
    "VD"
    #5 Vinsanity, Mar 17, 2021
    I second that. The nuts also seem to be made of hardened Parmesan cheese. Given the amount of torque they are fixed with, its 100% certain they will be damaged in the removal process. Make sure you have two new ones to replace them with.

    May I ask why your are removing the pulleys? I only pulled mine because the rim on the 1-4 pulley was dented and cutting little bites in the edge of the timing belt. If you don't have a good reason to mess with them, (say separating the engine/trans and replacing the bearings/seals behind the front cover inside) I would leave them alone.
     
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  6. crixer

    crixer Rookie

    Mar 27, 2010
    39
    #6 crixer, Mar 18, 2021
    Thanks for the input, I just bit the bullet and did it. I have a DeWalt electric wrench that made light work of the crank shaft pulley bolt so I was more confident in getting the pulley nuts off. These pulleys look like they were pulled up from the Titanic. They are crusty as a mug and I didn't feel comfortable even turning the motor over. A few years ago when my friend that originally bought the car was alive, we started turning it a bit to get TDC. I just started with the rear pulley and made a few marks. The DeWalt made zipped them off. The rear was a bit more stubborn. The front pulley nut came off without any issue. I didn't see the belt move, but in the video of the rear, you can see the tensioner move slightly. All the white paint pen marks look the same and line up. Would love to get some feedback on these videos.

    I do have the manuals, I just couldn't figure out which value was for those lower pulley nuts. I will use the pulley puller tonight and get the old off. I have a lot of cleaning to do before putting the new pulleys and nuts on. I have all of the seals and bearings that go behind the pulleys. I am tempted to remove that plate and do them. I wonder how much of a pain it is. I also have the crank pulley seal, I am thinking of replacing that while doing the belt change. My plan is to try to see if this car will crank. I will be running a scope down into the spark plug holes to see the condition. I just got a 1080p two camera scope so I can see the walls as well as the top of the pistons. I used my old scope and it seems the rear 4 chambers are okay. I just want to see in more detail. I will post those videos too if anyone is interested.

    Rear pulley:


    Front pulley:


    The crusty:

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    Thank you for that torque spec!
     
  7. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,464
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    #7 yelcab, Mar 18, 2021
    Oh I see now. That engine came up from the Titanic.

    If I were looking at that, I would change all the pulleys and the seals. I may be tempted to remove the front cover (a HUGE pain in the ass) to do the bearings behind the cover. But, that is a big job.
     
  8. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    #8 Hinecker, Mar 18, 2021
    OMG!!!
     
  9. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    379
    #9 Hinecker, Mar 19, 2021
    Good afternoon,
    You cannot remove the plate without removing the engine, and I would highly recommend doing the task. Why? Because those two shafts are mounted on ball bearings. The outer bearing is readily exposed once you remove the pulley, the inner bearing is on the engine block. When I rebuilt my engine both shafts on the inside were really worn out, they had spun inside the bearing. Replacing the outer bearing is a "cheap" fix, and there is no way you can tell if the inner bearings are ok unless you take the cover off and really inspect them.
    The shafts can be repaired, no need to buy them new.
    If you want more info on this subject, just let me know and I can send pictures.

    Best from Spain

    John
     
  10. crixer

    crixer Rookie

    Mar 27, 2010
    39
    #10 crixer, Mar 24, 2021
    I finally got the pulley off! I tried the heat inductor, propane, PB Blaster for days. This thing wouldn't budge. I was finally able to get a two claw puller to bite down on the back of it and it popped off when trying to do it manually. I got it to bite again after about an hour of fussing with the puller and then hit it full blast with the DeWalt. It bogged down for a moment then it just magically came off. Basically the same deal with the other pulley. I had to get the press to get the old bearings off of the assemblies. It is like these old parts were welded on! Now to clean everything up, rebuild the assemblies with new springs, and get the new belts on! Thanks for all of the help!
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