http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/360-430/379411-engine-noise-when-cold.html
Same exact problem with my 360 after sitting for 3 months but with Ctek attached so not weak battery problem. After reading old threads on the same problem I added a can BG44K Fuel System Cleaner to a half tank of gas before a road trip and then another can when filled up again. I was prepared to do all the other things suggested before but this was the easiest to start with. DONE! End of 1st start of the day problem and it really is not a cold start in the morning in S Louisiana in the summer. Fires up immediately with smooth and normal idle. My guess is that the injectors were gummed up due to the 3 month period of not running and the BG cleaned them out.
My 2001 F1 360 Spider does this exact same thing and i agree that turning it off immediately and restarting it solves the problem
One thing to think about is driving characteristics.....I noticed someone talk about it in the thread about buying a 360, and this is true for a lot of high performance cars. Once the engine warms up, you need to ring these motors for what they are worth. You are doing more harm than good babying these cars.....take it to red line and you might actually see this problem go away. This helps keep the carbon deposits to a minimum, which is why everyone seems to run for the injector cleaner. With reference to MAFs and cleaner...if the cause of the rough idle issues are due to dirty MAFs, you don't need to hose down the thin film in the housing....give it a couple of sprays, let it dry, reinstall.
I solved the problem on my 360 by keeping the battery fully charged. hook up a trickle charger at all times, the one that comes with the car as an option. or you can purchase a Deltran battery tender.If the car sits idle a few days you will have the problem reoccur.
I have an F 355 and every time I cold start the car she chugs and sputters as if it is on four cylinders. Sometimes I have to start the car 3 or 4 times to get this to go away. lately I have been using Exxon gas. I check the MAF sensor and it looks clean as a whistle. I Drive the car to the tune of 5000 miles in 1 year of ownership. I am completely stumped with this issue and I don't consider restarting the car a solution. There is a problem somewhere and I am going to fix it. I just wish I knew what it was. I have the car on a battery tender and the battery seems fine. What happens is that the car starts perfectly until the oil pressure starts to register and then the idle goes way down and the car chugs. It never does this on a warm start.
Mine does the same on cold starts, it would find the idle after half a minute. Doesn't really bother me as long as the car runs fine. I like to take as long as possible for my car to warm up before drives anyway.
Eventhough this is an old thread and solutions provided in this thread worked for some, i believe there are others who couldn't resolve the issue, therefore i would additionally suggest the following: 1. Drain the whole fuel (there is drainage screw at bottom of car) 2. Check the alternator, it could be weak. 3. Check alternator belt, it could be loose. Good luck everyone
No. Fuel, alternator, alt belt have nothing to do with it. The rough running for a few seconds occurs AFTER normal start up and then settles into normal high idle with no further problems. Seems to be very common with many cars. My 360 has done this for the last 8 years off and on so no big deal.
The rough idle is an issue and it can be fixed. I saw this problem a lot in early firmware cars and often it was due to cold start correction maps not being well calibrated, particularly evident on 99 and 2000 MY cars. A software upgrade can correct problems if the car is otherwise good in other areas. I would check first if its related to old or dirty air flow meters, or ignition issues (plugs, coil packs, dirty fuel injectors). ... Overall what you are hearing is the ecu adapting to the situation. It's still not ideal and most of the time this can be fixed as you'll definitely be down on power as a consequence of this. It can even be down to something as simple (but time consuming to fit) as an intake gasket leak on the red top intakes allowing unmetered air in or header gasket leaks (normally you'll hear a ticking if this is the case). During the first few seconds the car is programmed to adapt that's why the idle gets better but there is definitely a problem and it can be fixed. Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
Mine was due to malfunctioning old mass airflow sensors. They did not throw a check engine light. I know others who have replaced these as well and have also fixed this issue. I wasted time with coils, plugs Etc I have a 99.
It's not a waste of time to replace coils and plugs. They are after all degradable service items. The ignition system will be healthier and your fuel economy and performance will be better overall even if it didn't resolve your fault. Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
Not after both MAFs were replaced. This was about 6-7 months ago. Why did yours do this? Sent from my LM-V350 using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I replaced spark plug, coil , both MAF then I got perfect cold start. after 6 months. All goes back to stumble.
This is very likely software.. You need to upgrade the firmware, earlier firmwares are not great at adaptives for cold start and Bosch made significant improvements in later years to correct this. Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info. Good to know the reason for the rough idle and that it can be fixed. Sounds like a whole lot of work and hit or miss parts changing so why not just update the firmware first and work back through possible faulty components. Stupid question but how are the computers updated? Pull the computers and send them off somewhere?
Contact Aldous at AV Engineering for more details. Its not exactly straight forward because of all of the different sensors, actuators and configurations exist across model years, markets and chassis/engine numbers. Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
My car does a bit of a weird rough idle for like...15 seconds until it goes completely normal. But, this mainly only happens when I've used my kill switch, which decouples the battery from the car. Otherwise, it's relatively OK. Though, I dont drive the car a whole lot, so I haven't really bothered to deal with it.
The kill switch isolates the battery which erases some learnt parameters out of the memory of the engine management computers, informations that are not stored persistently so this is completely normal and nothing to worry about! If you isolate the battery you should go through a complete relearn cycle before you can pass readiness. It can take as long as 50 miles and multiple drive cycles are necessary. Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
Ah, then that's exactly what it is! I figured that nothing was really wrong, since it doesn't do it unless I use the kill switch. And, the car always drives fine afterwards, so no big deal!
360Trev. Took your advice and emailed Aldous Voice about the occasional cold start studder, rough running, not firing on all cylinders thing. He responded early the next morning. That is cool to get a response from one of the most respected Ferrari experts in the world. He apparently cares about our Ferrari family. Mine only does the rough idle after a week or so of not starting it and has done it for the last 8 years. Only lasts for 2 or 3 seconds and then idles perfectly with the higher RPM and then drops after a minute or so and runs perfectly. Aldous says he cannot fix that but can fix the phantom misfire codes after cold start up. Best to just leave it alone if the engine is running good and my engine runs just fine. Strong acceleration, revs freely to red line, get the nice sounding over run exhaust pops, etc. Perfect as far as I can tell so maybe there are different start up symptoms? I thought that maybe the fuel injectors leak just a tiny bit that causes the rich momentary start up roughness but that is only a guess. So after Aldous' response, I will leave it alone. Maybe that is normal for a lot of our 360s?
Hello to all of you. Hope to be well and stay safe. I need your help if you can help me. My Ferrari 360 Modena F1 when is cold the engine start is little difficult and when start my idle is stumble. I changed 2 Maf sensors but the problem continues. I can’t find the problem. If I shut down the car and immediately start it again the problem disappears. Thank you very much in advance
Try this: Turn the key to the first notch, wait for the OK to show on the instrument cluster, then count to five slowly. Then start. As it was explained to me by a F tech, the right bank ECU powers on first, then instructs the left bank ECU to boot up. This can take a couple of seconds. Once the left bank ECU boots up, your car should run normally. This can also be a symptom of a failing immobilizer.
