Sark, I believe the 25 Nm torque should be reserved for the (4) 8mm screws that fasten the whole pump to the block. Those six studs on the pump body are 6mm, which the manual seems to be silent on, but for most other 6mm fasteners on the engine, it specifies 9.8 Nm torque. At least it's good that it's the stud that stripped, not the threaded hole in the pump body.
Great job Sark! Yes, those nylocks should be 10Nm (find me a torque wrench that has 9.8) I just received my waterpump seal tool...makes me want to rebuild the pump again for fun just to use it! I don't think you need any lube for the outer pump oring. I just gently but firmly worked it on. You could also lube it with a little antifreeze Regards, Pete
Thanks Pete, As a bush mechanic I should be able to get close to 9.8 Nm with my own hands. Do you think I need some tread locker on the stud going into pump body? Dose not appear to have any thing on it. Thanks again. Sark
Okay took me two weeks to speak to ferrari mechanics to find out how to instal the studs into housing, thanks to them. I decided to replace all 6 studs since they are one dollar per stud. These are very soft treads and beleive it or not they get ruined even with one time use if you pay close attention to the treads you will see what happens to them. The studs comes out very easley by a wise grip with good teeth just untwist them. The new stud has two arms short arm with coarse tread and long arm with fine treads. THE SHORT ARM GOES INTO THE HOUSING, do not put any kind of tread locker jut twist in dry. In order to screw the stud in the housing I was instructed to put two nuts on it which I bought from hard ware store do nut use the nylock they will stuck and use the outer nut to twist in the stud. Once the stud is all the way in, then hold the iner nut with spaner and undo the outer nut comes out very easy without turning the stud. Now you have 6 new studed. The water pump I removed it from housing for the second time I noticed that the new rubber O ring was damaged, therefore put silicon grease on it which will help to slid in hoppfully without getting sliced, that is an another cause for leak. I set the used belt to 125 Hertz and tighteen the bearing nut to 59 Nm. Refill the system with fresh 50/50 Shellzon. I drain and refilled twice and asume the final fluild has 75% freesh and 25% old coolant. If you try 4 times you will get close to 100% freesh coolant in your car and will cost $80. Base on the idea of drain as much as possible and add freesh coolant like others recommend I should have coolant in my car from 1999 the day car was built in marranelo and for every given year on. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
LOL....Hello Taz...I know it's an old thread. I was teasing the doc because I see that I'm not the only one who throws on scrubs for mundane tasks. Super comfy actually. I was just going through the posts, gearing up for a rebuild. Just pulled the exhaust, tranny and driveshaft. Clutch and flywheel out. Need to have high speed balance and will replace TO bearing with Hill TO and pilot bearing. Then I have the stuff up front...belts and gaskets. Next in line shock out to Bilstein for rebuild, and need to beautify and clean up the calipers. Final round will be revisiting the COP conversion project by the Skunkworks crew. Then, paint refresh for rock chips and door dings. Most likely I will be reaching out for guidance from the gurus here. I have followed and appreciated your advice here, so your contributions are greatly valued by the members.
Mark- At least he was still around. Not sure I would have Bilstein do the rebuilds, but that is probably the fastest route.
