Just in case anyone missed it on the Technical Q&A. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/slow-window-fix-for-less-than-30-00.310804/
I just recently made my own window boosters, but I used SPDT relays and ran a hot wire from the fuse box. It makes a huge difference. I think the referenced system would certainly help as it shortens one of the wiring runs substantially, but it wasn't a big deal to run power to the doors. Hardest part was finding matching blue wire to blend with the original wiring harness. It never would have occurred to me to dunk the whole thing in Plasti-dip. It still doesn't.
Well, I am going with the two relay setup per door and bringing a solid 12V into the door from a breaker protected battery tap. The reason for two relays it is will eliminate the window switch failures, as the window switch will only see very low current vs the full amperage. Doug
Doug this is the job of the RCM. It does exactly what you're planning on doing without adding 2 relays and rewiring everything... Simple and clean install.
So, tell me what that RCM thing is.The one gizmo (window accelerator) I saw that just "plugged in", was basically an enhanced ground via some relay, but all the motor current still went thru the switches, which will still burn out the switches.. Doug
The RCM is a forward reverse relay module. So.... it replaces the 2 relays that you want to use to accomplish what this relay module will do. Take the power wire out of the switch and feed the relay. Remove the 2 wires from the switch to the motor and connect them to the devise. Connect the the 2 control wires to the switch (where you removed the 2 wires going to the motor) ground it, and it's all done.
Sounds like a split the difference option. Less hassle then wiring in direct voltage to the motor, but relies on the existing wiring that still suffers from long run voltage drop. Since the new unit still grounds at the switch. Prefer the dual relay option, low voltage switch with battery power direct to motor under higher gauge wire and direct ground. But it does require more work. Current load of the window motors is fairly high ~10amps, that's why I don't like the oem layout.
I posted this video in the technical thread. Not to ague one way or the other, but I have never understood the slow window problem. The video shows window operation in mt 85 GTB QV which has all original wiring, switches and fuse holders. 2 or 3 seconds up or down. The only window problem I have had in 36 years is hardened grease int he motor. Makes me wonder if there is something different between the GTB and GTS causes the problem, like the window frame differences and alignment.
