My A/C quit working on my F430

Took it to dealer and during annual found that the compressor seal was leaking and the refrigerant was leaking out slowly. It was vacuumed and recharged and I will monitor it by topping it off periodically until the new compressor comes. The clutch , compressor, relays and ecu's all worked normally when a full vacuum and recharge done. Will replace the compressor in a few weeks.

 

Did they also swap the drier?

 

Thanks for the update

 

Hi Dan,

Glad to hear you got the A/C issue sorted out. Great job!

I think that is the right connector with a link on Amazon.

I recommend a good solder connection and a good water tight heat shrink.

All the best to you always.

Dan L.

 

Thanks Dan! I concur about the connecting method, but it's always good to hear it from a pro like you!
Hope you're well!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

on order wi compressor thx

 

Just had a pleasant conversation with the company Coolairparts in TX. for my new compressor and dryer with 2 yr warranty total wi shipping and free core return $660.00
Not too bad for my a/c rebuild. FWIW Looks to be a reputable source for Ferrari a/c parts at reasonable prices

 

I might have been scammed on this. Reviews as few as there are are not too encouraging. Will follow up as soon as I know something. Maybe they have cleaned up their act since the reviews, but I am now very wary. If anyone has had any dealings with them, please let me know. i may cancel the order before it is shipped with my Credit card.

 

Thought y'all might appreciate seeing what I found:

This is a video of the bad connector, and how I knew it wasn't the compressor side of the connector:
https://youtube.com/shorts/ZD-hxcw7agY?feature=share


This is "post-repair".
https://youtube.com/shorts/CqUIJely5yg?feature=share


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Looks really good!

Great job Dan!

All the best to you,

Dan L.

 

Exact Same problem happened to me - Refused to have Full A/C Compressor unit changed as it was just clutch faulty - Have managed to get working order by fitting shorter belt so that once i find A/C Clutch Compressor i can fit .

Does anyone have any links to a A/C CLUTCH compressor i can buy ?

Many Thanks

 

Based on another thread, I believe the conclusion for the longest lasting one with a better connector was from Ricambi.

 

SCAM Avoid at all costs. Got my money back thankfully.

 

I was misleading on the A/C clutch. At the beginning of this thread Dan "What the heck" discusses his saga with replacing the clutch on his 430. He eventually wound up replacing the entire clutch compressor combo new from Superformance or Eurospares in UK. There are probably 2 other sources of new A/C compressors for Ferraris that are listed on this forum one is in Florida and one in CA. I cant seem to locate the name

 

Even with Dan's experience I would relive his nightmare with attempting my own clutch replacement first. Cause this time it will be different.

 

Hey, I'm new here. I found this thread because the F430's cheaper sisters seems to share the same AC Compressor, or at least somewhat interchangable. On my 2012 Maserati GT MC, it's Delphi model 01441206.

Mine had stopped working driving back from a funeral on a hot day this summer. When I went to check it on the lift the ~T20 Torx bit from the center of the AC clutch fell out into my hand -- it had sheared off. Using a socket to de-tension the serpentine belt, I could feel that the AC compressor pulley had some play to it, like a bad bearing.

Once I gently pried off the inner clutch, there was one ~2" outer diameter C clip ring holding the pulley on. (There's an inner c clip next to the spline shaft, but that's not what you need to remove) Inside the steel pulley was this bearing:

NSK Japan 35BD5222DUM2

Measurements for this bearing are
d 35
D 52
B 22
C 22
Seal 2RS
Weight (kg): 0.121


I think the clutch itself is ok, and the internals of the pump are probably just fine -- I can turn the compressor spline shaft with my fingers. This seems to be a failure of the compressor clutch bearing only.

It seems to be a common fault, with this bearing model number being used in Dodge trucks to Hondas to Kia cars. (Probably Delphi compressors)

Quote from a Dodge forum in 2011:

I have a 2002 Duramax with a Delphi air conditioner compressor. After 220,000 miles the compressor clutch bearing began to make noise on frosty mornings. It seems no aftermarket parts supplier carries a clutch kit for this Delphi compressor. Even GM only sells the whole compressor, not the bearing or clutch kit. After removing the pully I found the part number on the NSK bearing was, 35BD5222DUM2. The Motion Industries supplier in Missoula Montana was kind enough to contact NSK and found out the part number on the bearing had been changed in the system and it was available for $39.00 freight included. The bearing arrived about 10 days later and fit the pully so I was on my way for much less than a new compressor. The NSK part number on the invoice that came with the new bearing is 35BD5222T1XDDUM-01 C. That is followed by *MA6L5 and the Motion Industries part number on the invoice is 04246189. I looked at NSK's web site and tried to find the bearing number in their search engine without success. If you need the bearing I suggest you go to a Motion Industries or other industrial bearing supplier with the NSK 35BD... number and order one.​

Sure enough NSK boxed bearings "35BD5222T1XDDUM" are on eBay for $10 to $30.

They are also on Amazon listed as "NSK 35BD5222 AC Compressor Clutch Bearing" for about $17.

My guess is that the bearing is not made to withstand the forces these engines + tensioners can place on them. When the pulley can wobble, the clutch load is probably placed on that little button head Torx bolt, which is why it fatigued off.

I'm going to weld a small nut to the end of the sheared Torx bolt (it sheared flush and looks too small to drill), and back it out with some TLC. It's probably an M6 thread, so I'll just swap in a high grade metric hex bolt of the right length.

The bearing is staked in place on the back of the pulley, but I think those will give way to a shop press pushing the old bearing out.

I'm not confident in any of the chinese knockoff delphi units (advertised for F430 and various Maseratis) which go for about $350 -- I'd need to see some long term reviews.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

- A different Dan

 

One more update, while the AC clutch bearing itself might have a little play, it seems the aluminum "snout" on the AC compressor may be worn. I'm going to order a new AC compressor.

In the meantime I'll wait for and press in the new bearing, then use some JB weld to take up the few thousandths (about paper thickness) of play between the new bearing and the snout. I found this other post doing the same thing:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-c-clutch-bearing-replacemet-cheap.294467/


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Have a look at Loctite Bearing fit, designed for the job

 

Hey, thanks for the tip. I came across Loctite 648, 620 and 638, and finally 660. I see people are using using Loctite 660 on crankshaft snouts and motorcycle steering head bearings. I think 660 might be what I need (although I can think of other projects that could use this), and I'll get some 638 to keep on hand. Image Unavailable, Please Login
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You have different names to those in uk. You need a retainer

 

I am running into the same A/C not working issue. Before I dig into all the steps outlined in this thread, I did the below step using the Launch software. However, in my case when I toggle the a/c switch on the dash, the status does not change. It seems like the circuits are not getting the message to turn the compressor on. Does that indicate anything that I should specifically look for?

Thanks!

 

toggle the relay thru the launch and see what happens

 

A/C will not work if there is low refrigerant: there's a pressure switch incorporated into the system which acts as a safety cut-off.

 

Smartest first attempt fix is to disconnect the battery and wait. Reconnect and see if having no AC active.

 

Based on my experience with the F430 A/C, if the system is empty of refrigerant, the safety switches (pressure sensitive) will NOT allow the compressor to run under any circumstances, thus saving it from destruction with no lubricating oil.

Attempting to charge it with a DIY kit does NOT have enough pressure to put in enough refrigerant to get the safety switches to close and run the compressor. You need to have the system professionally evacuated with a vacuum pump then pressure filled with the required weight of refrigerant specified for your system.

The static resting pressure of the system at idle on both sides Hi and Lo, is around 90psi and the DIY kits generate around 30-35psi, so that's why you are unable to get the proper charge to run the compressor.

There are a few ways to jump the switches, (Lots of trouble to find and access ) but this is the safest and simplest way to handle this problem in my experiences.