Centre tunnel front cover - removable to access radio, throttle cable and everything else. On top I added the EQ bracket and a cable passage hole. The right side includes the left foot rest and a chromed kick panel: Image Unavailable, Please Login The left side has a velcro-secured carpet that reveals a removable side panel to access all the radio wiring. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Head unit belt change - here the replacement belt Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login It requires the removal of the cassette drive and cover plate: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login head and roller cleaning Image Unavailable, Please Login head unit Image Unavailable, Please Login EQ Image Unavailable, Please Login
HiFi wiring for a 4-speaker layout - similar to the contemporary BB Image Unavailable, Please Login Y junction for separate power supply to the memory and head unit via the EQ Image Unavailable, Please Login Here we go Image Unavailable, Please Login The front seat belt exits in the rear quarter panels are too short to compensate the belt movements back and forth when the angle of upper belt return changes angle during usage. My belts ended up frayed around the edges and got refused at the MOT. I made new, larger exit covers: Image Unavailable, Please Login They are stuck with 3M automotive tape before the slot is cut Image Unavailable, Please Login Done Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login front door shoulder panel Image Unavailable, Please Login mirror defroster exits Image Unavailable, Please Login rear ends Image Unavailable, Please Login
Throttle Cable Rejuvenation - the rear section running through the chassis fitted guide tube is covered by rubber foam tube, showing breakage. The cable itself is in very good condition, so I chose to repair the coverage breaks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Done, incl. restored bracket with new grommet Image Unavailable, Please Login
Window Regulator Sheaves - upper set, as removed Image Unavailable, Please Login cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login ready Image Unavailable, Please Login Front Bumper Side Section - They are corroded on the inside. Nothing can be really done about that, but I cleaned out all the loose bits and rust protected the rest with anti-corrosion paint where accessible and drenched it all in Dinitrol. The outside was cleaned off all the paint layers, sanded finely and protected with a black rubber bumper dressing: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login The mounting spacers looked worse than they were Image Unavailable, Please Login cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login Front Bumper Side Section - same story but one of the spacers was missing and one of the mounting studs had corroded away, so a repair was made and the missing spacer cut from hard foam - contrary to the front, there are 2 different thicknesses: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login On the lower (rh) front attachment you can see the screwed on repair bracket. It holds up quite well. Image Unavailable, Please Login The outside surfaces show slight deformations from the internal corrosion but it's acceptable now that the surface is matt black natural rubber. In the longer run, I will source replacement sections but at the moment, the restored original parts will do just fine. It looks way better than the painted, scratched and cracked look when I bought the car. So all in all a good restoration result.
Headlight Motor Restoration Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login One of the eyelets was hand made! Image Unavailable, Please Login Teardown Image Unavailable, Please Login Rubber caps removed - one of the emergency hand wheels was different with a hole at the top Image Unavailable, Please Login This is interesting - the rubber housings are marke Sx = LH and Dx = RH. However in the Mondial the Sx is fitted to the right side. Sometimes it pays to mark parts before you remove them. Trying to refit to the wrong side would have cause some headaches... Image Unavailable, Please Login Metal parts corrosion free Image Unavailable, Please Login Cleaned and repainted parts Image Unavailable, Please Login Ready Image Unavailable, Please Login A replacement actuator rod was eventually sourced and the eyelets used Image Unavailable, Please Login
Removable rear inner wheel arches - as removed, in pretty bad shape, with lots of underbody coatings, destroyed mounting holes, add-on metal plates to compensate, cracks, missing edges, overspray in the engine bay side etc: LH: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Drain hoses clip (sunroof & filler neck) Image Unavailable, Please Login RH Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login sunroof drain hose clip Image Unavailable, Please Login metal mounting holes Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login all removed: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Luckily, the many layers of underbody coating and paint was very thick and came off relatively easily: Image Unavailable, Please Login Tons of it Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login The other side's weight before stripping: Image Unavailable, Please Login After Image Unavailable, Please Login Both stripped Image Unavailable, Please Login To find the original shape I superimposed both and marked the common holes, note the cracks in the gel coat: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login All identified Image Unavailable, Please Login
Edge templates for repairs and redrilling - between both I was able to reconstruct the original outline and hole pattern Image Unavailable, Please Login Preparing the FRP work - edge feathering and removal of all rotten areas Image Unavailable, Please Login repairs Image Unavailable, Please Login repairs completed, edge trimmed and holes repositioned Image Unavailable, Please Login engine bay side repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login wheel well side recoated Image Unavailable, Please Login weight now Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login new P-clips for the drain hoses fitted; repair complete: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Filler Neck as removed Image Unavailable, Please Login Cleaned - nice alloy construction Image Unavailable, Please Login Painted Image Unavailable, Please Login Cap - when it's not tightly closed, it can vibrate itself loose and the edge gets damaged by the hinge: Image Unavailable, Please Login The shape got corrected on the lathe (!) and I added a textured adhesive in the middle to clean up its look Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Rigid pipe between the fuel pump and pressure accumulator Image Unavailable, Please Login Corrosion-free Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login
brake booster vacuum hose check valve as removed Image Unavailable, Please Login and after check, corrosion removal and repainting Image Unavailable, Please Login Coolant pipe P-clips Image Unavailable, Please Login after restoration, with new rubber sleeves Image Unavailable, Please Login New injectors with the wrong gaskets - those aren't the once we need on the QV: Image Unavailable, Please Login Intake Tube - perfect condition but very dusty Image Unavailable, Please Login Cleaned up Image Unavailable, Please Login Lots more P-clips! Image Unavailable, Please Login more restored Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ignition Coils Image Unavailable, Please Login Rust free and magnets repainted by hand Image Unavailable, Please Login Done, with + - marked Image Unavailable, Please Login more presents Image Unavailable, Please Login more clips Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Locally sourced hoses with samples Image Unavailable, Please Login centre tunnel coolant hoses Image Unavailable, Please Login fuel & vent hoses Image Unavailable, Please Login Interesting and original hose joint making up for 2 different diameter and either end (aux air valve > air filter housing) Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fuel accumulator as removed Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login engine anti-torque link Image Unavailable, Please Login rust-free Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login Ignition coils power link Image Unavailable, Please Login looks pretty ok Image Unavailable, Please Login fuel tank strap spacers Image Unavailable, Please Login corrosion free and repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fixed Fuel Lines - from tank to pump Image Unavailable, Please Login and from accumulator to CIS and back (rh side above rear wheel) Image Unavailable, Please Login mechanical cleaning and checking - they are fine structurally Image Unavailable, Please Login chemical corrosion removal Image Unavailable, Please Login very nice looking afterward Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted and clips refitted Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
CIS fittings as removed Image Unavailable, Please Login copper rings needed Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login Brake booster vacuum hose fittings Image Unavailable, Please Login cleaned up and repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login oil cooler hose fittings Image Unavailable, Please Login rust-free Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login air filter housing clamp Image Unavailable, Please Login redone Image Unavailable, Please Login
Exhaust muffler clevis pins restored Image Unavailable, Please Login air filter housing cleanup of the crank case link Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login cover brackets had to be re-welded Image Unavailable, Please Login prep for painting without losing the graphics Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Done Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The metal part of the coil ( you painted it black) is ocher colored original. Between brown and red. Model looks a bit different on Euro cars. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes and didn't have the right color at the time - those are actually FIAT coils I bought a few years ago and they were black. I will repaint that in the future one day.
CIS Restoration - fuel metering unit, WUR, Aux Air Valve and Cold Start Injector were rebuilt and calibrated: Image Unavailable, Please Login Cold start injector and Aux air valve repaint: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Rebuilt and tested WUR - I have requested my own, not an exchange Image Unavailable, Please Login Fuel metering unit - same here, mine rebuilt Image Unavailable, Please Login all ready Image Unavailable, Please Login
There is a hardware shop in Mongkok that sells stainless steel P-clips with the correct section of sleeves. I bought a bunch of them just for the rubber sleeves.
Airflow Sensor Restoration - besides it's looks, the plate didn't move as freely as I needs to. This also had suffered during storage since it was fully functional before. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Opened up: Image Unavailable, Please Login crank case vent "residue"... Image Unavailable, Please Login Sensor plate arm hinge Image Unavailable, Please Login Lower half - sand cast Ferrari construction - cleaned and air hose connectors/studs repainted: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lower half ready incl. new gasket Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Upper Section - die cast Bosch part - teardown. Back-fire rubber stop with increasing resistance: Image Unavailable, Please Login The hinge axis is lateral play compensated with a spring. Image Unavailable, Please Login Other side Image Unavailable, Please Login Roll-over Safety Switch Image Unavailable, Please Login Cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Metering plate refitted Image Unavailable, Please Login
Upper section repaint Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Lower section repaint Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Reassembled Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
In case you aren't planning a trip to Mongkok in the near future,I have purchased the entire clamp assembly at McMaster-Carr. Look under "loop clamps."
