Haha! Thanks Ermanno! My thoughts for posting it were just to show thats its really not all that difficult. Maybe give another DIYer thats a little leery of tackling the job a little boost to do it. To have a little fun while learning more about your car, and save a little money for something else. John
john...easy for you...lol. you are an engineer w/ petrol in your blood...it's easy for you my friend!! when are you coming home? coronado vintage races this weekend!!!
Please tell me there is another way to get a pilot shaft to align the splines in the clutch discs. The thought of removing that monster ring nut attaching the input shaft the the top transfer case gear is terrible.
Man, what a GREAT JOB! I have no intention of ever doing this, but to see it done, read about it, and KNOW that if/when the time comes, it's like 'instant study course' to assist a tech for what he's getting into. In my area, that's VERY important. Thanks a ton.
John, Great write up and pics, it has answered all the questions that I was about to post on a TR clutch replacement for a friend. Regards, Phil.
2dinos, I borrowed the input shaft from a friendly repair shop. I found clutch alignment shafts for sale from some vendors for about 200 bucks, but the loan was available so I used it. Thanks Adams, and Phil, happy my write-up helped! John
Great job John. I just removed my clutch yesterday as it was slipping when punched in third or fourth gear.What paint did you use on the exhaust and engine? Also where did you buy your clutch as I havent gotten mine yet. Thanks
The engine is natural aluminum not painted. You can use simple green or an aluminum wheel cleaner to bring it back or take it apart and glass bead blast the bare block - which is a little more involved. Lets see your car.
The clutch was rebuilt using my parts by Clutchmasters (Google them. Good site). Cost was about $950, to re-surface the flywheel and intermediate plate between the discs, reline the discs with kevlar friction material, and adjust/replace the springs in the pressure plate. The clutch came back looking like new! And works well also. If you do the job, don't neglect to change the pilot bearing in the flywheel. Cost of a new clutch from AP was something like $1900. Not hard to do the math! John
We finally replaced my own clutch w/ an AP Racing upgrade the same clutch than on 288 GTO. It took us only 6 hours for 2 people. Only difficulty : the shafts alignments... Grrrrrr ! And 1 "surprise" : the brand new bolts were too large cause of the factory paint on them ! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi and thank you guys for all the info here on the clutch replacement. I just bought a 1987 TR and also have to repair the clutch. I don't know what's wrong with the clutch, but even when you put it in first gear and release the clutch the car only moves a little bit. I will disassemble the unit this weekend to see what is wrong. It might be possible the plates are completely worn, but it might also be possible the pressure plate is broken. The clutch pedal has resistance, but I don't know how much pressure the clutch pedal normaly require, because I have never driven a TR. Even not the one I just bought... Anyway, I think I have to replace the unit and, if so, I probably replace it with an AP unit. Eurospares sell these now for only 775,00. Does anyone have any experience with Eurospares and are the AP clutches ok...?
This is a great thread. A replacement clutch set may be in order for my 82' bbi within the near future. (Next major service) I'm looking to do some homework first. Anyone have any updates with suggestions what type of clutch they replaced the original with? My Boxer is for street use so maybe the original setup would be my best bet. Comments? Thanks, Dave
The AP unit above or rebuild your Borg and beck. I've only used the AP clutch and I'm happy with it but I've heard others experience an almost on/off type of engagement but I haven't so far. I've debated converting to the 512TR/M clutch but the input shaft is a different size so it would require a custom disc or a disc from an application that fit.
Excellent write up. Just came across this thread as my clutch pedal was acting funny on my way home from the grocery store. 1/4 mile from home the pedal goes to the floor and stays there. A Toyota Prius was stopped in front of me waiting for the traffic to be clear......for miles..... Fortunately it was on a slight downhill grade and as I got going was able to put in 1st when it was synchronized and then home in front of my garage. Clutch doesn't slip, so I think there is a leak somewhere, probably slave cylinder at a guess, but we will see.
