Hey guys 1978 GTS US After changing the dash lights I decided to test them prior to reinstalling the dash and came up with this problem. When I turned the key on none of the warning lights came on. (Gen, Oil, E-brake). Also the Hazard flashers no longer work. So I started the engine to make sure it would start and the gauges worked. It started OK and they did, however when I turned the key off the engine didn't stop!!! I had to pull the coil wires to get it to stop. After shutting off there was no voltage to the coils. (sounds like a relay?) Things that work. Head lights, tail lights and running lights. Turn indicators including little arrows in speedometer. All night time dash lights with and without the dimmer. AC rear window defogger. Starter and ignition even though the engine won't shut off after started. Tach Gas Gauge. Oil Gauge but not low pressure warning light. Water temp gauge. Oil temp gauge.. The fasten seat belt light flashes once after about 5 seconds. I'm not sure it ever worked. I have jumper in the fuel pump drivers seat safety circuit so the fuel pump runs all the time when the key is on. I use it as a anti-theft device by removing the jumper when I'm not in the car. Everything was working fine 3 days ago before I changed the dash lights which by the way look great. I can't find anything wrong. I checked the fuses and all are OK. I unplugged and plugged the dash connectors with no change even though I don't think the dash connectors would cause the Gen light not to come on when the key is turned on with the engine off. The engine not shutting off is really weird but is mentioned in other threads but without all the other problems. I checked the hazard switch and there is no voltage going to it which has to be wrong since it works if the key is on or not. I checked the hazard flasher relay (H) for loose connections and all looked OK. Tomorrow when it cools off, its over 100 degrees f in the garage, off I'm going to run power to the hazard switch and see if that fixes it as a test. I'll also try putting the old bulbs back in but I can't believe that's the problem. Seems like it has to be something I inadvertently unplugged but I sure can't find it. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance Barry
Did you change the flasher unit for the hazard/ turn signals? The OEM unit needs the higher resistance of the incandescent bulbs to operate. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
The turn indicators work fine. I didn't change the bulbs on the turn indicator lights on the outside of the car just the bulbs for the arrow indicators on the Speedometer so the resistance won't have changed much. I don't, however hear a clicking from the flasher unit, the one on the right side of the relay panel. If your talking about the emergency flasher (H) to the left of the fuse panels, no I didn't change it and also don't hear any clicking from it. I don't recall it being mentioned in any of the write ups. I will put the old bulbs back in tomorrow to see if that fixes it. Thanks
Did you have your headlights up when car kept running? I turn off the headlights, then shut off car. i did not put led in generator lamp, kept the bulb in. i used a led flasher and had to add a ground lead to the led flasher and move one of the wires to align with flasher. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
lm2504me The headlights were not on. Did you have the attendant problems with the hazard flasher and other dash lights? When I first noticed the light problem was the 1st test I did when I had only changed the ba9 (big) bulbs but not the T5 (small) bulbs. Did your turn indicators work prior to installing the LED flasher? Thanks Barry
I had no problems with my Dash lights or hazard Flasher. Yes, all turn indicators worked. Do you have a 3 prong led flasher or two prong.
Well, the usual suspect, of course, would be that whatever is wrong was caused by something you connected/disconnected/damaged/shorted in the process, not by the use of LED bulbs. Just go back through it again...
Just a guess, if you changed your Alternator warning light... It can be the trouble is the +15 comes back via the new light on the system and keeps the ignition etc supplied by 12V. Would be the first thing I checked... maybe it lights up if the engine is running and contact off? (doesn't have to because led only lights up in the flow direction.... do you have leds with specific plus and minus or the worse version with no polarity ? (and an extra diode in them) I don't have the wiring diagram of a 1978 308 but it seems there is no ignition relay?
Mike Yep that's what I thought, that I disconnected something or shorted something out but I've been through is a dozen times and can't find anything. I'm going to put the stock bulbs back in it this morning to see if that's the problem. Really frustrating. Barry
Andretti Yeah I just bought some cheap LEDs off the internet. No polarity and the extra diode on top. As I told Mike I'm going to start putting the stock bulbs back and hope that fixes it. Barry
That is very strange, I have also done the dash lights before, could be a relay that became faulty, did you perhaps swap out any of the relays when changing the bulbs, did you bridge the Rheostat ?
Johnny Tried Rheostat both ways no difference. I cleaned it well and made some minor adjustments to the wiper and it works great with the LEDs. The relay's are always an option but they are all original and I've never had any problem with them. I'm wondering if there just isn't enough load on the emergency flasher (H) as the hazard circuit seems to play a major roll in the electrics of everything. I was hoping someone could say "O yeah. Just change this widget or plug that back in" but no such luck. If switching back to the original bulbs doesn't fix it I'll start jumpering stuff in order to get a better handle on this. I've already jumpered power to the various lights that don't work (from the fuse panels) and all looks good. Wondering if someone could tell me where the primary power for the hazard switch is located. I don't have Paul's schematics so its difficult to tell with the low quality internet stuff. Barry
Changing back to the incandescent bulbs for the warning lights fixed everything. Left the LEDs in to illuminate the gauges. Guess there wasn't enough resistance in the warning LEDs to trigger the relays or something. Probably has to do with the way the hazard circuit is integrated with everything. Thanks for your help Barry
Very interesting! Thanks for posting that. It's the first time I had ever heard of that issue when changing to LEDs; good to know!
Oh ok, that does make sense, I only replaced the speedo and tacho illuminating bulbs to LEDs, never touch any warning lights etc... now we know. interesting Barry !
Nice to read! But now I have to know!! Where are there any drawings and do you have more info about your leds? I will try to figure out the schematics because "caused by flasher" is new to me .. I really like to figure out!
I have seen this before on a Mondial (I did not do the work). The diode LED lights wreaked havoc. Going back restored order. It must be the unidirectional nature of the LEDs.
This is what I did…. Mainly Superbright LEDs were purchased. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-ferrari-today.436876/page-109#post-147633922
Existing write-ups here about updating dash lights with LEDs specifically mention to NOT switch the Alternator warning light to LED - so that was probably your culprit. The others can be changed without problem. I just did mine in October.
Bulb sources for gauge illumination: BA9S larger bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FXVC1JV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Smaller wedge shaped bulbs (white light) for speedo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0798R76CR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Does the dimmer rheostat work with the currently available LED bulbs? Do either of the bulbs listed in post #22 also fit the turn signal indicator light?
thats what I thought immidiatly, the led bulb sometimes have diode in one direction and led (also diode) in the other direction... What happens is that the D+ (this point gets 12V when the alternotor works) is now feeding the contact +15 of the car... so the current is flowing through the diode in the led towards other circuits and keeps the car running. Normally there is a small bulb with resistance in it and that resistance gives a hogh enough voltage drop to shut off the car. So it depends on the bulb construction, but using a bulb in an alternator circuit with D+ is not a good idea... in later cars with an Nippon Denso or so (with NO D+ but +15) there would be no problem. (+15 is Bosch code for voltage after the contact/key switch)
The part I am not understanding here is that IF the system relies on the bulb/resistance for proper operation, the system would fail if that bulb burns out. Hard to believe it would be designed that way...